as the question asks, i think my hj45 has fawked rings, what's involved in replacing them 
whats involved in replacing the rings
- Thread starter bad_religion_au
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Why do ya think that, Bad? Did you do a leakdown?
It involves taking the engine out and apart, if you want to do it right.
It involves taking the engine out and apart, if you want to do it right.
- Thread starter
- #3
it's burning oil bad, has a little less power than usual, poorish compression, and the head is fine (done a couple of months ago), engine gets more power when i top up oil... and lots of blow by.
Sounds likely. Biggish job.
- Thread starter
- #5
may have a 55 for my bro to drive soon, so it can be off the road for a couple of months
2x fj55, one for parts, one still registered, body okish, mechanically fine, winch, bullbar spot lights = 900 bucks the pair.
just gotta make sure the parts are fine for the 40 (FF rear, 4speed t-case)
2x fj55, one for parts, one still registered, body okish, mechanically fine, winch, bullbar spot lights = 900 bucks the pair.
just gotta make sure the parts are fine for the 40 (FF rear, 4speed t-case)
I've done this twice (2 different trucks) in the past year. It's not hard. Biggest PITA is the oil pan. Getting it off is harder, getting it back on is a royal pita.
Order the rings and bearings from Pacific Lift Parts. They're in Cali. Make sure you know that your block hasn't been oversized.
For disassembly, drop the pan, pull the head, and push the pistons out through the top. Number them. The notch goes toward the front, by the way. You'll understand when you see the pistons.
The parts should come in a few days. Pull the head, and have it cleaned and checked for cracks. You've got it off, don't be cheap.
Take the pistons and rings to the machine shop. Have the rods mic'd for round and honed if need be. Have the pistons inspected. And have them install the rings. I had mine done for $20/piston.
Borrow a hone from the machine shop and lay a nice cross hatch pattern on the cylinder walls. Just put it in a drill chuck and carefully run the hone up and dopwn the walls 7 or 8 times. Check the top of the cylinder for ridges. If you can catch your fingernail, the ridge needs to be taken down.
Now, what i'm about to say may alarm some, but you don't need a ridge reamer. We're not building race engines. Just take some 120 emery paper and hit the ridge enough to get it flush with the cylinder walls. you may want to do this before the honing so the the hone can erase and scratches you made.
Installing the bearings is pretty straighforward. they're identical top to bottom, and only go in one way. just make sure they're oiled up.
If you've go some bolt protecters for the rod bolts, use them. otherwise be careful not to nick the crank. Installing pistons in the vehicle is a 2 person job. Compress the rings, set the piston into the bore, and gently tap the top of the piston with a rubber mallet until it clears the deck. Be careful not to let the piston get cocked in the ring compressor.
that's basically it.
Good luck, remember to torque the head again after 250 miles.
Rob
Order the rings and bearings from Pacific Lift Parts. They're in Cali. Make sure you know that your block hasn't been oversized.
For disassembly, drop the pan, pull the head, and push the pistons out through the top. Number them. The notch goes toward the front, by the way. You'll understand when you see the pistons.
The parts should come in a few days. Pull the head, and have it cleaned and checked for cracks. You've got it off, don't be cheap.
Take the pistons and rings to the machine shop. Have the rods mic'd for round and honed if need be. Have the pistons inspected. And have them install the rings. I had mine done for $20/piston.
Borrow a hone from the machine shop and lay a nice cross hatch pattern on the cylinder walls. Just put it in a drill chuck and carefully run the hone up and dopwn the walls 7 or 8 times. Check the top of the cylinder for ridges. If you can catch your fingernail, the ridge needs to be taken down.
Now, what i'm about to say may alarm some, but you don't need a ridge reamer. We're not building race engines. Just take some 120 emery paper and hit the ridge enough to get it flush with the cylinder walls. you may want to do this before the honing so the the hone can erase and scratches you made.
Installing the bearings is pretty straighforward. they're identical top to bottom, and only go in one way. just make sure they're oiled up.
If you've go some bolt protecters for the rod bolts, use them. otherwise be careful not to nick the crank. Installing pistons in the vehicle is a 2 person job. Compress the rings, set the piston into the bore, and gently tap the top of the piston with a rubber mallet until it clears the deck. Be careful not to let the piston get cocked in the ring compressor.
that's basically it.
Good luck, remember to torque the head again after 250 miles.
Rob
The B series motors have pressed in cylinder liners rather than blocks that can be 'bored out'. I forget if the H series do as well. If this is the case, no boring of the block, just press in some new liners at the same time as you do your rings. It may be possible to just hone your cylinder liners lightly and then reinstall your pistons with new rings, but you may want to get a diesel mechanic's opinion.
(Then it depends on how far you want to go..... while you're in there are you going to buy new pistons, bearings, combustion chambers, main seals... the list goes on)
good luck,
Steve
(Then it depends on how far you want to go..... while you're in there are you going to buy new pistons, bearings, combustion chambers, main seals... the list goes on)
good luck,
Steve
- Thread starter
- #9
bah, i just want to get it to not burn oil anymore ... guess i'd go cylinder liners, and rings... i just redid the head (b4 this prob was apparent) and everything there is fine
... guess i'd go cylinder liners, and rings... i just redid the head (b4 this prob was apparent) and everything there is fine
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[quote author=bad_religion_au link=board=1;threadid=16473;start=msg160943#msg160943 date=1085101710]
bah, i just want to get it to not burn oil anymore... guess i'd go cylinder liners, and rings... i just redid the head (b4 this prob was apparent) and everything there is fine
[/quote]
Should do the Con Rod Bearings, As you'll have to remove ém to pull the Pistons out the Top of the Block. - Leave the Crank in, Otherwise you'de almost be better off looking for a reconditioned Short.
FJ55 :-*
bah, i just want to get it to not burn oil anymore
... guess i'd go cylinder liners, and rings... i just redid the head (b4 this prob was apparent) and everything there is fine[/quote]
Should do the Con Rod Bearings, As you'll have to remove ém to pull the Pistons out the Top of the Block. - Leave the Crank in, Otherwise you'de almost be better off looking for a reconditioned Short.
FJ55 :-*
- Thread starter
- #11
hopefully i can do this myself cheaper than a recoed short, otherwise i'd buy a totalled 75, or (gulp) 4.2L nissan GQ patrol, and swap the whole kit in. (i see reco'ed blocks for about 4 grand)