Whats a good solar battery? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter fj62max
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Need quite a bit more info, to start with:
Otherwise I'd say you want a 10000 amp.hour battery and at least a 2500watt array
help us help you...
cheers,
george.
- What is you solar wattage now and future?
- What are the demands of your 'accessories/fridge/etc' - amp.hours used in a 24hour cycle
- For winter use? Spring? Summer? i.e. Panel facing the sun most of the time?
- Typical # of days you need the solar/battery to provide power (engine off, camped etc)?
- Battery going into engine bay or in back of vehicle or trailer?
- Battery charged while engine running or not?
Otherwise I'd say you want a 10000 amp.hour battery and at least a 2500watt array
help us help you...
cheers,
george.
fj62max
Wildlife Customs
- Thread starter
- #3
Need quite a bit more info, to start with:
Otherwise I'd say you want a 10000 amp.hour battery and at least a 2500watt array
- What is you solar wattage now and future?
- What are the demands of your 'accessories/fridge/etc' - amp.hours used in a 24hour cycle
- For winter use? Spring? Summer? i.e. Panel facing the sun most of the time?
- Typical # of days you need the solar/battery to provide power (engine off, camped etc)?
- Battery going into engine bay or in back of vehicle or trailer?
- Battery charged while engine running or not?
help us help you...
cheers,
george.
Lol.
The battery will be in the back of my vehicle. Mostly want it the power my fridge engel mt45. I have a 105watt acopower panel. Will be camping 3 or 4days at the most. I live in miami Florida so theres really no winter down here. The battery would be alone. No charger to my truck. Should I put a charger? I have a hdj81 diesel so the alternator chargers two batteries already. Thanks for the reply
well, starting with the real basic basics, if you're thinking lead acid, you'll likely want a deep cycle battery and not a starting one if this is mostly for the fridge. Although a dual type could come in handy as a spare for the engine bay. I've had good luck with the Kirkland ones from Costco.
- Joined
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Well, with you requirement for the battery in the 'back of the vehicle', I'd be a little concerned with use of a wet cell given the venting risk and spilling of acid etc. Even with a decent battery box I'd wan't to vent outside the vehicle, but that's just me.
For that use I'd rather choose an AGM. By charging in vehicle I meant using the alternator versus a fully stand alone battery. You didn't really answer when you said the alternator is already charging 2 batteries - are you going to charge the 3rd with your alternator or not.
If not, then solar sizing becomes quite a bit more important and you need to determine your typical 24 hour power usage off the 3rd battery and figure how much solar you need to put at least that much back in. In a bit more would be better since charging isn't 100% efficient...
100w panel if running just your fridge off the battery with lots of decent sun should keep up indefinitely. i.e. it should be able to put more AH back into the battery than the fridge is using. Obviously this assumes fridge in shade and vehicle inside temperatures aren't stinking hot, i.e. you would want windows/tailgate etc open while camped. This of course due to higher running duty cycle with the fridge in high heat. Get a reasonable solar charger/controller for the panel and charging duty. A lot of us use and like the victron mppt units, about $100. Then you can configure the charging profile to suit a lead acid or (preferably) an AGM.
It's a pity that the US has stupid high tariffs (tariffs = tax) on solar panels to protect a couple of lingering panel 'manufacturers'. I can buy a 160W folding solar panel in oz for the equivalent of around US$75 (delivered within oz).
cheers,
george.
For that use I'd rather choose an AGM. By charging in vehicle I meant using the alternator versus a fully stand alone battery. You didn't really answer when you said the alternator is already charging 2 batteries - are you going to charge the 3rd with your alternator or not.
If not, then solar sizing becomes quite a bit more important and you need to determine your typical 24 hour power usage off the 3rd battery and figure how much solar you need to put at least that much back in. In a bit more would be better since charging isn't 100% efficient...
100w panel if running just your fridge off the battery with lots of decent sun should keep up indefinitely. i.e. it should be able to put more AH back into the battery than the fridge is using. Obviously this assumes fridge in shade and vehicle inside temperatures aren't stinking hot, i.e. you would want windows/tailgate etc open while camped. This of course due to higher running duty cycle with the fridge in high heat. Get a reasonable solar charger/controller for the panel and charging duty. A lot of us use and like the victron mppt units, about $100. Then you can configure the charging profile to suit a lead acid or (preferably) an AGM.
It's a pity that the US has stupid high tariffs (tariffs = tax) on solar panels to protect a couple of lingering panel 'manufacturers'. I can buy a 160W folding solar panel in oz for the equivalent of around US$75 (delivered within oz).
cheers,
george.
Look at Concord batteries. They are expensive, but very reliable and last a long time. Many are NOT lead acid and virtually all are no spill. Mil spec and aircraft batteries. I put some in my motorhome with 300w solar panels about 5 years ago and they are still hanging in there with NO maintenance except to occasionally clean the battery cable contacts.
RFB
97 FZJ80 LIFTED SC DUAL BATTERIES,37s
reLIon lithium and the ofeer a LT low temp version. serious Juice.
