What to do when this happens to your FJ62 ..........? 
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ARCHIVE What to do when this happens to your FJ62 ..........? 19070-61080 / 89620-60100 / 90919-02113
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- #2
GHOST said NO for the first time WED. night while fetching printer ink turning around in the local park Office Depot parking lot ….
I am NOT to the finish line yet …
But , I am NOT also just throwing parts at her …
The 3F-E is new to me and so is a TOYOTA 1st gen EFI just crapping out with ZERO waring .
But she is the dedicated SHOP ROAD RUNNER .. and needed right now for sure
So her needs are still needed …
I will post and update as I go and you will learn and see what I learn and see as it occurs real time live …
- NO fuel odor ?
- TACH no longer hovers @200-250rpm during cranking either ..
- I have a pile of photos as always and a yearn to learn and help educate others here as always …
- i simply know it will be everything I do not know about , and nothing I do know well of course...
Why it would it be any other 3F-E way ?
,
I am NOT to the finish line yet …
But , I am NOT also just throwing parts at her …
The 3F-E is new to me and so is a TOYOTA 1st gen EFI just crapping out with ZERO waring .
But she is the dedicated SHOP ROAD RUNNER .. and needed right now for sure
So her needs are still needed …
I will post and update as I go and you will learn and see what I learn and see as it occurs real time live …
- NO fuel odor ?
- TACH no longer hovers @200-250rpm during cranking either ..
- I have a pile of photos as always and a yearn to learn and help educate others here as always …
- i simply know it will be everything I do not know about , and nothing I do know well of course...
Why it would it be any other 3F-E way ?
,
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- Thread starter
- #3
i had a oem coil already due to this from date of purchase ...
90119-02113
Genuine NipponDenso of course ...
,
90119-02113
Genuine NipponDenso of course ...
,
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F
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- #6
i color key all my complex pin outs in sharpie to match the tracer stripes as much as possible
way too easy to get this all mixed up fast ?
..
PHOTOS too of course , a F load of them , + confirm and verify = done correct 1st rodeo .........
;..
.
way too easy to get this all mixed up fast ?
..
PHOTOS too of course , a F load of them , + confirm and verify = done correct 1st rodeo .........
;..
.
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- #7
i use this Circuit Board cleaner if the terminals are getting re-used ..
theses are SPARKY , so they are ..........
theses are SPARKY , so they are ..........
- Thread starter
- #8
First thing's first: start simple Verify if you have any spark during cranking (I won't be surprised if you don't, based on the corrosion on that coil terminal). If no spark, bench test the coil. If it tests bad, there's your culprit. If it's good, replace it anyway due to that corroded terminal and move on to checking the next thing. I'd be surprised if the igniter is bad. It's not impossible, but still rare.
As far as your tach, I can't remember if mine would flutter curing cranking or not, and you'll probably be farther along in troubleshooting by the time I fire up my 62 again after getting everything reassembled (hopefully tomorrow night). But if not, I'll be closely watching mine to see what it does. If mine flutters during cranking and yours isn't, you could very possibly be looking at an igniter failure.
Getting technical here for gee-whiz info: The tach signal comes from the igniter when the IGT circuit from the ECU pulses. HOWEVER, the ECU also needs to see the 5V reverence it outputs on the IGF circuit get pulled to ground every time the IGT circuit fires. If IGF doesn't get pulled the ground, the ECU will shut down ignition functions and effectively stop the engine. Picture of the signal pulses on an oscilloscope for a 6cyl coil-on-plug engine, just for funsies:
Given that your 62 isn't even starting, I can say with near absolute certainty that your problem is not related to the IGF signal. But that doesn't completely eliminate the possibility of a failed igniter either.
Now back to the basic stuff: if you have spark during cranking, hook up a fuel pressure test gauge and see what your pressure is at while cranking.
Also from someone who works in electronics for a living, the WD-40 is a waste of money. CRC Contact Cleaner is far better at cleaning off electrical connections and is still safe on plastic. Literally the only WD-40 product I have is the original, which I use to spray away water (Water Displacement, formula 40; it's original intended purpose) after I've washed EvapoRust or Naval Jelly off of tools or small rusty parts that I want to save. Every other purpose people try to use it for, there's always far better products out there.
On that note, I'm going to bed so I can wake up in immense pain from spending 16 hours either bent over my engine or on the pavement underneath my own rig....
As far as your tach, I can't remember if mine would flutter curing cranking or not, and you'll probably be farther along in troubleshooting by the time I fire up my 62 again after getting everything reassembled (hopefully tomorrow night). But if not, I'll be closely watching mine to see what it does. If mine flutters during cranking and yours isn't, you could very possibly be looking at an igniter failure.
Getting technical here for gee-whiz info: The tach signal comes from the igniter when the IGT circuit from the ECU pulses. HOWEVER, the ECU also needs to see the 5V reverence it outputs on the IGF circuit get pulled to ground every time the IGT circuit fires. If IGF doesn't get pulled the ground, the ECU will shut down ignition functions and effectively stop the engine. Picture of the signal pulses on an oscilloscope for a 6cyl coil-on-plug engine, just for funsies:
Given that your 62 isn't even starting, I can say with near absolute certainty that your problem is not related to the IGF signal. But that doesn't completely eliminate the possibility of a failed igniter either.
Now back to the basic stuff: if you have spark during cranking, hook up a fuel pressure test gauge and see what your pressure is at while cranking.
Also from someone who works in electronics for a living, the WD-40 is a waste of money. CRC Contact Cleaner is far better at cleaning off electrical connections and is still safe on plastic. Literally the only WD-40 product I have is the original, which I use to spray away water (Water Displacement, formula 40; it's original intended purpose) after I've washed EvapoRust or Naval Jelly off of tools or small rusty parts that I want to save. Every other purpose people try to use it for, there's always far better products out there.
On that note, I'm going to bed so I can wake up in immense pain from spending 16 hours either bent over my engine or on the pavement underneath my own rig....
- Thread starter
- #10
i used a large piece of the fire proof loon and branched off , the RED and BLUE 3M adhesive lined BUTTS crimp save the day once again !
i used OEM Genuine SUMMITOMO THICK Rings Sandwiches with the BEST DAM electric grease in the galaxy too !
these are the crimping results i get with OEM TOYOTA JIS Press-Masters , i am happy ,,,,
i do a inittal crimp , then remove and a 2nd reset crimp just LIKE YAZAKI did on the ASSY line and still does today ..
,
i used OEM Genuine SUMMITOMO THICK Rings Sandwiches with the BEST DAM electric grease in the galaxy too !
these are the crimping results i get with OEM TOYOTA JIS Press-Masters , i am happy ,,,,
i do a inittal crimp , then remove and a 2nd reset crimp just LIKE YAZAKI did on the ASSY line and still does today ..
,
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Betcha ALL did not see me sneak thag new square SNOW VERSION cold spec telescoped boot there Earler ,…
Nope !!!
All Easter Eggs lasts ..
Right Mr. Ron Burk Sir …
Good morning my friend …
Nope !!!
All Easter Eggs lasts ..
Right Mr. Ron Burk Sir …
Good morning my friend …
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- #16
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- #17
Follow up :
- I went to tue coil and refreshing the ignitor right away because I had all-ready had the 90919-02113 on-hand from seeing the Most Crusty B+ and NEG- Ground maroon coil ring terminal studs I could ever recall !!! ….Worse than the KEY BRIDGE Iron Pilings for sure …!
- I also knew there was a need for both the updated GREY OEM YAKAKI male / female connector and terminal kits for both the Igniter and the 19100- Dizzy set up in. the FJ62 and the dizzy in the FJ80 also ….
- these are the O2 Sensor
Rated Housings too , come to find out …
- so i and fully stocked to the gills at all times now ….
- see the link below it will be updated with a few ignitor pics too …
- when I said I was NOT throwing parts at GHOST i dam well meant and had worlds LAST Known NOS 19100-…
- I went to tue coil and refreshing the ignitor right away because I had all-ready had the 90919-02113 on-hand from seeing the Most Crusty B+ and NEG- Ground maroon coil ring terminal studs I could ever recall !!! ….Worse than the KEY BRIDGE Iron Pilings for sure …!
- I also knew there was a need for both the updated GREY OEM YAKAKI male / female connector and terminal kits for both the Igniter and the 19100- Dizzy set up in. the FJ62 and the dizzy in the FJ80 also ….
- these are the O2 Sensor
Rated Housings too , come to find out …
- so i and fully stocked to the gills at all times now ….
- see the link below it will be updated with a few ignitor pics too …
- when I said I was NOT throwing parts at GHOST i dam well meant and had worlds LAST Known NOS 19100-…
