What emergency brake parts do I need?

[corleykj]

I am "busting" my rear passenger side rotor off because of some studs that busted as I was removing the wheel.

Here is a pick of the e brake parts that broke. I haven't rotated the rotor so I can loosen the e brake yet, and therefor remove the rotor. So I haven't seen what is back there yet. But I would like to order the parts while I am at work and get them on there way.

Can anyone tell me what parts I should be ordering for the emergency brake. Here is what I have already damaged.

Thanks for your time.
Kyle

 

[Mxndrnks]

Those dont look broke/damaged to me.

Do you have the FSM? And what year is this?

 

[Mxndrnks]

Also gotta ask, have you gotten this apart yet? or did these just fall out?

 

[jemsec]

Did the same thing on the right side of mine. Ordered an entire kit for about $17.00 just to get the pins, springs and caps. Best to replace as mine pulled through and made the cap hole too big for safety. Also straingtened out one of the pins.

Was afraid the shoes would come loose while driving. Terrible thought.

You will have to loosen the pads before the rotor/drum will come off. Turn drum until the rubber plug is at the very bottom and remove the plug for access to adjust spur. Once loose it comes right off. Be sure to tighten to stop rotor from turning and back off just enough to eliminate contact. All you need is a flat end screwdriver. You will know which way to turn the spur pretty quick.

 

[Gottagetone]

Is that the plug that you pull to adjust the rear brake through the rotor? When I did my rear brakes the rotors came off without even having to adjust the e-brake. I did not have to remove the e-brake components , I did clean all the parts with brake cleaner and all looked good. I turned the rotors, replaced the pads and rebuilt the calipers. Properly adjust the e-brake when you reinstall, as stated above, and you will be good to go.

 

[corleykj]

Thanks for the advice. Tried longer bolts to pull the rotor but the rotor is still binding or hooked on something. I can see back there where the star nut is to reduce pressure on the e brake, but can't get it to move with so much pressure on the rotor. For some reason I think the e brake is keeping the rotor from turning, cause I want to get the hole in the rotor to
line up with the adjustment star nut so I can adjust it. But can't spin the rotor.

The rotor is close to coming off, but I don't want to do more damage
to the e brake.

The pieces just fell/popped off. I haven't removed the rotor yet.

Where did you order the $17 parts kit from?

Ideas?

 

[Gottagetone]

You might be trying to crank the adjuster the wrong way. Are you going up or down with it? It may be maxed out...dont ask me how I know this...

 

[APKhaos]

Interesting that those 'fallen' parts look so clean - no corrosion, not covered in brake dust pitting.
The Achilles Heel of the LC park brake is the actuating lever that transfers the cable motion through a pivot point to actually move the park brake shoes. Its been known to rust enough to bind up tight. Its possible that this lever is stuck and the brake shoes are pressing on the rotor. The rotor will not come off if this is the case.
Try this:
- Disconnect the park brake cable on the side you are trying to remove.
- Move the actuating lever [that the cable was attached to] to the brake fully off position. Use force if required - there's nothing likely to break in this step.
- Take the truck out of gear - move the selector to Neutral
- Both rear wheels need to be off the ground, of course.
- You should be able to rotate the hub at this point.
- If its stiff, use some leverage via two sacrificial bolts in the lug holes and a suitable lever bar.
- Make sure that the brake show adjuster is fully loose. As someone already said, you may have turned it fully tight earlier in this battle.
- Now try removing the rotor.

 

[100 TD]

Put the rotor/drum back to it's normal place by using wheel nuts and washers to push it back on. At this point you should be able to rotate the rotor/drum.
If you can't, now put your wheel back on and spin it, this will give you the required leverage to line up the hole in the drum into the correct position so you can then release the adjusting screw that pushes the pads out. Release it a long way to allow the shoes to come in so they can get past the lip on the drum(if you have worn one)
IIRC, when I did mine last, Toyota don't use left and right hand threads for the different sides, this means that to loosen the spur wheel on the adjusting screw on one side will be opposite to the other side, in other words if you ratchet up on the left side to loosen you will need to ratchet down on the right side or vice versa. (That is if they don't use LH and RH threads)

You can download a free FSM (Factory service manual) online, which will give you full instructions and an exploded view of the parts, or you can see them at toyodiy.com

Make sure you readjust your park brake per the FSM sequence

ADJUST PARKING BRAKE SHOE CLEARANCE
(a) Disconnect the parking brake cable from the bellcrank.
(b) Remove the 2 bellcrank tension springs.
(c) Loosen the bellcrank adjusting bolt.
(d) Temporarily install the 3 hub nuts.
(e) Remove the hole plug.
(f) Turn the adjuster and expand the shoes until the disc
locks.
(g) Return the adjuster 8 notches.
(h) Install the hole plug.
2. ADJUST BELLCRANK
(a) Pull the bellcrank until all play in the interior linkage is taken
up.
(b) Screw in the bellcrank adjusting bolt to where it contacts
on the dust seal.
(c) Loosen it one turn, and lock it at that position with the lock
nut.
Torque: 5.4 N·m (55 kgf·cm, 48 in.·lbf)
(d) Install the 2 bellcrank tension springs.
(e) Connect the parking brake cable.
(f) Remove the 3 hub nuts.
3. SETTLING PARKING BRAKE SHOES AND DISC
(a) Drive the vehicle at about 50 km/h (31 mph) on a safe, level
and dry road.
(b) With the parking brake release button pushed in, pull on
the lever with 88 N (9 kgf, 19.8 lbf) of force.
(c) Drive the vehicle for about 400 meters (0.25 mile) in this
condition.
(d) Repeat this procedure 2 or 3 times.
4. RECHECK AND ADJUST PARKING BRAKE LEVER
TRAVEL

 

[corleykj]

Thanks for the attached pdf. I was able to rotate the rotor tonight and get it lined up on the 6 oclock spot to access the spur to loosen emergency brake. I will mess with it tomorrow when I have time. I might have to order some parts for the e brake. But thanks to everyone's advice I think I can get this taken apart and put back together.

 

[Mxndrnks]

The two pieces you posted pictures of up there are the "cup" in the parts diagram. The pin slides though, one cup one spring, another cup and you are done. You dont look like you need parts. Get the hub off, look at the parts diagram then look at the cup, spring, pin Assembly on the other side (there are two per ebrake) and re-assemble. It should be pretty obvious....

 

[jemsec]

Trying to remove the hub with the brake almost engaged will cause one pin to tear through the cup and another pin to straighten. Will also distort the springs. Once you realize how it works you will kick yourself.
Try Rock Auto. Either Part# 17394 or Part# H17394. I bought the last part#. Most parts places sell them but will have to special order. Will get a bag of 20-30 little springs and other parts. Look at it like a training exercise.

 

[Mxndrnks]

Just want to make sure you don't have the parking break on...right?

 

[corleykj]

Well the dealer ordered a hardware kit for an emergency brake set up for a 4 runner. And the cups I needed were the same as those (look different but the same purpose, size, everything). So we straightened a pin that got bent, put new cups on and were done. Not hard, just annoying. Yes, kicking myself.
So if anyone is in a bind check for 4 runner parts in stock and try those, it worked for me.

 

[Mxndrnks]

Glad everything worked out for ya!

 

[Azonic84]

We also slapped some slee spacers onto the rear end of his 100! Looks great!

post up a before and after pic dude!