What are these extra connectors for?

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Nope Yooper,
My ABS system uses three relays that appear on the extreme rigth column on my picture above ( colour from the top to bottom is Ligth green, blue , pink) and two different 40A each fuses in the adjacent waterproof fuse box ( where the 50A fuse dedicated to AHC pump is).
All these three relays are also labelled ABS on the first stamped line on their side.

I am not really surprised the relay for AHC is labelled ABS since ABS and AHC are sharing the same DTC procedures.
 
:cool: I just wanted to double check before I ordered a relay to put in there. I noticed that the relays in that box have different arrangements of connectors - they are not interchangeable at all. So I'll order an ABS relay.

Thanks!
 
OK.
BTW, I have Win98 back and just checked the EPC disk, The TOY P/N is 88263-24020 .
Have a good splicing!
 
Did anyone locate the spare AHC connector under the dash?

I need to pick up 12V @15 amps;ignition hot, and dash light hot for my ARB install.
It would be sweet not to cut into the chassis wiring harness and just use a couple of .250" female spade connectors to connect these signals up from a existing connector.
 
Do you want to use the OEM diff lock switch? If you do, there will be dash illumination at a switch next to it, just grab it from there.
I wired mine NOT ignition hot, (hOT always) so if I turn of the ignition and I am in a tight spot on a hill or something my compressor and solenoid stay actuated. Folks have argued that load on the diff will stop it popping out, but I have a fear of "Murphy's Law", when something can go wrong it will go wrong at the worst possible time. Your fuse box kick panels are are good place to start, look for things on the cover of your fuse box lid that don't exist in your vehicle and a fuse will be there ready to go, just chop the wire running from it and away you go. The AHC circuit will help with the compressor install (and solenoid feed) I can't remember if it is IGN switched or not, I think it would be.
 
The AHC only works with engine running, if it helps.
 
Hey Yooper,

Did you find the elusive green/yellow wire (that goes to the AHC relay) under the dash yet?
 
Not yet. I am on a two week road trip right now. I just yesterday obtained the relay, as I am visiting John Hocker in Sierra Vista, AZ. I MIGHT have time today to open the dash. I ran out of time and money to do the stereo/nav install before my trip, so I haven't been in there yet...
 
I finally spent about two hours poking around under my dash this afternoon and could not find the wire, although I did inf a possible candidate. I don't think the in-dash part of the harness for the AHC ECU is in my truck. The under-hood harness does appear to be there. I might end up just having to take out the main relay box and patch into it from underneath. I know from the manual where to hook in, it's just kind of a big deal to pull that whole box....if I am successful I will do a full writeup...
 
yooper said:
I finally spent about two hours poking around under my dash this afternoon and could not find the wire, although I did inf a possible candidate. I don't think the in-dash part of the harness for the AHC ECU is in my truck. The under-hood harness does appear to be there. I might end up just having to take out the main relay box and patch into it from underneath. I know from the manual where to hook in, it's just kind of a big deal to pull that whole box....if I am successful I will do a full writeup...
Click to expand...

As I mentioed previously, I did the bottom of the fuse box trick. I just spun it 90 degrees insitu and pulled the bottom off. I found the wire fairly easily and I inserted a small screwdriver next to the spade terminal from the top (where the relay plugs in) to release the terminal.
The wire is up the top of the photo, green/yellow, and you can see the spade on the end. I had othe spade terminals with locking clips on them but they weren't quite big enough to latch the new terminal in place. That is not a problem for me, when I pull the relay(rarely if ever), the new wire and terminal stays attached to the relay and I just disconnect it as I remove the relay. A better solution for you/others if you don't have the correct locking spade terminals, leave the existing wire in place and just chop it, insulate it, then join your new wire onto the existing one running up to the relay. This wire can then be run directly to your pressure switch, because it is your pressure switch that you want to control the relay. You still have to get a switchwire from the dash area to the other side of the pressure switch to turn it on and off.
My photo is of an 03 fuse box so it will be different.
Fuse box bottom.webp
 
Yeah I think I'll do that when I have time to dig that deep. I know which wire it is from the AHC schematic. When adding wires to that kind of connector I usually just solder my new wire to the existing terminal and reinstall the terminal, not messing with the old wire at all.

Pressure switch? I was going to run my dash switch right to the relay. Do I have a pressure switch?
 
Yes you need a pressure switch to switch the compressor on and off so it doesn't explode!
Power is needed from a fused supply to your dash ON/OFF switch, then from your on/off switch to the pressure switch, then from the pressure switch to the relay. You turn your dash switch on and the power flows through the on/off switch to the pressure switch to the relay and turns the relay on which fires up the compressor. When the compressor pumps up to say 105 psi the pressure switch opens and cuts power to the relay and turns it off. When you use some air and the pressure drops below say 70 psi, the pressure switch turns back on and starts the compressor again. You manually turn the compressor on or off via the dash switch. Some people put an extra air tank under their vehicle for more air storage capacity to speed the process of blowing up tires.
 
100 TD said:
Yes you need a pressure switch to switch the compressor on and off so it doesn't explode!
Click to expand...

Well that is of course unless you plan to run the compressor "Open to the atmosphere" and not let it pump up any pressure except when you have it hooked up to a tire. For $10-20, I would be putting in pressure switch though.
 
Is there a chance to install connectors for a compressor/switch to the rear axle for airbags installed in a 2001 LC 100 series with 2860 coils?
 
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