What are my options?

[RenMan]

So, I'm sitting in traffic the other day minding my own business, when I look in the rear view mirror just in time to see a truck bearing down on me and I can see the driver is looking at something out the side window. Nothing to do except put my head against the headrest and prepare to be hit.

The damage:


Could have been much worse - the driver saw me at the last second and swerved to where he just tagged the corner.
His insurance company wants to total the car.

I understand - '94 with 230,000 miles, typical land cruiser cosmetic issues with the clearcoat peeling and the paint fading - everything works. I could get $4000 for it, maybe.
But still, it's got lots of life in it, and I'd like to keep it on the road.

That brings me to my question: can this be repaired without replacing the whole body panel?? I know next to nothing about working with sheet metal, but I know when things get ripped and stretched, there's not much that can be done. Could a guy cut out a section from a salvage panel and weld it in? Doesn't need to be pretty, only functional.

Seems crazy to scrap a perfectly good truck over this - what would you do or what have you done?

 

[Off Duty]

From someone who works with this industry, DO NOT settle for the initial offer.

First, whose insurance company is making the offer?
Next, what factors are they using to determine the settlement amount?

A little negotiation skill and some patience will usually pay off.
You have them by the balls, and they know it. They'll usually try to low ball the initial offer and wait to see if you counter or lawyer up.

If it's your company, how are you insured?
If it's your insurance company, how do you have it insured? Replacement value, or book value?

Do some comps on similar vehicles in similar condition, with similar equipment and mileage.

Finally, no matter what you do, DO NOT sign off on the settlement until you're sure you are ok.

I'm not an attorney, and I'm not an advocate for litigation, you should at least be checked out by a "competent" physician (not a pill mill or insurance whore), and make sure you're ok.

Once everything is ok, then do what you need to do.


As for the vehicle, etc., you can always let them total it, then buy it back for a percentage of the value. You'll make a few bucks, keep your rig, and be able to either repair it or sell off the parts to help other cruiserheads keep their rigs on the road.

Unless there's frame damage, sheet metal can be fixed.
Depending on how anal retentive you want to be about it, it can be quick and cheap, or very expensive.

A skilled body person can weld in a replacement panel, or piece in a panel off of a junker. Again, it's the skill of the body person that will make the difference.

My body man is an old school type artisan who uses metal and minimal filler to make repairs. He uses an old school metal brake and hammer to form most pieces, and you'd never know!

Anyway, I hope some of this helps.

Good luck.

OD

 

[RenMan]

Thanks for the quick reply OD - the guy that hit me works for a local plumbing contractor, Travelers insurance covers them. Thankfully, he was insured - unlike at least half of the other drivers on the road these days!

No physical injuries - fortunately, the kid was able to react quick enough to avoid a direct hit.

Hard to believe, but in 40 years of driving - the last 20 spent commuting on "Killer 82" to Aspen and back, this is my first damage claim dealing with an insurance company. The local rep that I spoke with wasn't very clear about the option of totaling it and buying it back, although I've heard other folks talk about doing that.

Mostly, I'm looking for feedback around my options for repair. I took it to a local body shop and they spit out a quick estimate of $4,000. That was to make one corner of a lovingly used LC look like new. Nice, but that's not my expectation, and of course, Travelers doesn't want to shell out that much either. I'm only looking to get a sound, decent repair and get the old girl back into service.

So, being a total n00b when it comes to body work, I was hoping to get some encouraging tips on repairing this damage. And that's pretty much what I heard here - worst case scenario is I find a replacement panel and get someone to weld it in.

So, thanks again for the reply - time to start looking for a donor. There is a LC speciality shop nearby - I'll give them a call and see if they have any leads.

 

[PAToyota]

Unless there is frame, axle, or similar damage I would NOT go the total and buyback route because then you're going to have a salvage title - which is completely ridiculous if the damage is just sheetmetal.

If it is just sheetmetal damage - and the rear light assembly - it is certainly repairable doing just what you say. Get a decent salvage panel, cut out the damaged area, and cut out a good piece from the salvage panel to weld in. Chances are that the light assembly is going to be the most expensive part.

Personally, I've got the skills to do the welding myself, but you should be able to find someone who can do it for a lot less than $4K. Heck, could be a good opportunity to buy a welder and do some learning yourself. And since you say the rest of the vehicle has peeling clearcoat and faded paint it is not like you're looking for a show quality paintjob either.

Some other things to consider... First is that part of the reason they want to total it is because it is worth more to them to sell it for parts than to put you back in it. Second, if it is driveable and is just sheetmetal damage, it is worth a heck of a lot more to you than it is to them. You're not going to get another twenty year old vehicle of comparable quality for anywhere near what they want to give you.

So I'd get a couple more estimates on having the work done - or get some estimates on parts and a nice welder...

 

[Off Duty]

Unless there is frame, axle, or similar damage I would NOT go the total and buyback route because then you're going to have a salvage title - which is completely ridiculous if the damage is just sheetmetal.

Agreed, 100%; however, if he is given no other option than total or no $$ to repair, (or lawyer up and litigate), then his options "may" be limited.

Even then, from the sounds of things, he's not going to be trying to resell it anyway, so I'm not sure how much a salvage title would matter in the total scheme of things?

If he takes the "total" and buy back route, he may have the money to offset that new welder and an Mako Paint job

If it is just sheetmetal damage - and the rear light assembly - it is certainly repairable doing just what you say. Get a decent salvage panel, cut out the damaged area, and cut out a good piece from the salvage panel to weld in. Chances are that the light assembly is going to be the most expensive part.

Totally agree with you here.
If it's all fascia and lights, you're golden!

Personally, I've got the skills to do the welding myself, but you should be able to find someone who can do it for a lot less than $4K. Heck, could be a good opportunity to buy a welder and do some learning yourself. And since you say the rest of the vehicle has peeling clearcoat and faded paint it is not like you're looking for a show quality paintjob either.

Absolutely!
I can't see that being anywhere near $4k, unless you're going showroom fresh. Then the rest of the rig is going to look weird.

Another thought might be to take it to the local vo-tech (high school, or trade school) for the repair. In most cases, you're paying only fro parts, and you have an experienced eye overseeing the repair. May not be "perfect", but I've seen some nice stuff come out of these places for pretty cheap.

Some other things to consider... First is that part of the reason they want to total it is because it is worth more to them to sell it for parts than to put you back in it. Second, if it is driveable and is just sheetmetal damage, it is worth a heck of a lot more to you than it is to them. You're not going to get another twenty year old vehicle of comparable quality for anywhere near what they want to give you.

Exactly why I suggested the buy back.
If it's frame damaged, get your $$$ out of it, then resell the parts. You'll end up with more $$$ in the end.

So I'd get a couple more estimates on having the work done - or get some estimates on parts and a nice welder...

Amen!!
as PAToyota said, look around, get comparative values, and prove to the insurance company that they're low balling you.
Believe me, low ball is the first thing they usually roll your way.


OD

 

[PAToyota]

One issue with a salvage title beyond reselling it down the road is that insurance can end up being an issue - ironically.

The vo-tech could be a possibility. Another option would be taking a class yourself. Community colleges sometimes offer them.

 

[Off Duty]

One issue with a salvage title beyond reselling it down the road is that insurance can end up being an issue - ironically.

The vo-tech could be a possibility. Another option would be taking a class yourself. Community colleges sometimes offer them.

You're right about the insurance. I didn't think about that.
Check around, but I think he'll still be ok.

 

[RenMan]

I'm not too stressed about the salvage title - I'll take some pictures to document the process if I ever need to sell it, but I'm planning on driving the wheels off of it. I extect to hear from the other guys ins. company tomorrow, and I'll get squared away on my options from their end.

As for doing it myself... Yeah, how hard could it be? After all, I'm a cabinetmaker! We can do anything!

I have played around with a wire feed a couple times under the chuckling eyes of a real expert. I was truly humbled. If I had the time, I'd love to take a couple classes - welding is a dang handy thing to know. But I don't have a lot of time, so I'm hoping to get some dough and find a body guy to do the welding for me.

I'm looking for a wrecked body that I can take my grinder to. A little surgery, and she'll be as good as new!

Thanks again!