Welders for Body Work on the Cruisers

[Zack1978]

I got a MillerMatic 135 for x-mas. I have not used it yet, but I can't wait to fire it up!

Zack

 

[fj-rankenstein]

I have been using a millarmatic 135 for a couple of years now and I love it.... it can get turned down quite low for thin stuff and can do all of the thicker body panel and light frame work stuff as well..... I want to get a millar 251 for the frame stuff but if your metal is clean and your welding is good you can do a lot of the typical cruiser frame stuff as well.... ya just gotta go slower...

 

[brownbear]

just out of curiosity, is it just the valve that you need, I know that some of the flux core welders have a different lead that doesn't have the sheilding gas provision, does the CT upgrade for gas have this as well?

The gun came set up for gas shield. But to do the the innershield stuff you have to screw on a different tip(included) and reverse the power wires inside the box. As it flows opposite.

All I had to buy was the regulator. I got the one from C-tire. Also I had to get a bottle. They charge a bunch for that. Rental and all. Plus fill ups.

Gas shielded is nice. So for fine body work I would only do it gas shield. But for general welding on thicker steel why not innershield?

 

[brownbear]

Oh that lincholn I mention above has to be turned up slightly from the lowest setting to weld cruiser metal. The lowest is a bit too low. I liked that. It wasn't too powerful.

I think I set it at voltage A and feed 3-4 ish. Also I found do not try to do seam weld. Just spot weld on and off the trigger. Otherwise too much heat builds up and you can see warpage. I also kept a wet rag handy to cool down the metal every few seconds after welds.

Also tapping with a hammer slightly on the welds keeps the warpage away by helping to distribute the heat/stresses.

By the time I had warped my whole panels I got the feel for it