Webber trouble

[BikerTrash]

I installed a webber about a year ago and ever since have had nothing but trouble with it more or less.

It has never idled very well even with the original factory carb but for about a month after installing the weber it was better, then got crappy again, some of the nuts backed off from the studs that mount the Carb, tightened them, got better again but still not great. Now it is not running under 1,500 rpm. Everything is tight that I can see.

I am considering ditching the Webber and trying to find all the components to swap in the injection from an 85 or newer truck, mine is an 84 4runner. So what seems better? mess with this carb some more, or just put the nail in the webers coffin and kill the problem with injection?

 

[Hilux]

definitely EFI. ORS has an economical kit as well.

Off Road Solutions - Products - Engine Upgrades



about your webber. Did you follow the directions for the install? I know some can't. I say that b/c I couldn't.

a possible cheap solution for you might be a carb tool. Don't ask me what it does or how, IDK. All I know is that they are supposed to fix your adjustment problems. and they are cheap IIRC.

I put one on a Honda and could not get it right. I was going to get the tool but the Honda got gone 1st....TG!


If you dial it in, I believe you'll be happy with it....might be worth it...

 

[cruiser88]

You say the carb nuts came loose right? Well start the rig and take some carb cleaner or starter fluid and spray around the base if the idle shoots up some then the carb- base gasket is shot.

btw injection is alot of work but well worth it

 

[WristPin]

I agree with 88.

also, the choke housing. one of the three screws seals a vacuum port. make sure they are tight.

have you ever adjusted the float level? when doing this, it would also be a good time to inspect for debris or sediment in the bowl.

turn the mixture screw all the way right, and back out 2.25 turns.


I think Hilux is referring to a air flow meter. Not the 22RE AFM's. Im talking about a plastic tube deal, with a floaty ball in there that measures air flow. May also be called a carb syncro meter.

A good place to find one of those tools is at a part house that sells 'schawgen junk. Many VW enginegs use dual carbs, and using this tool is the most practicall way to tune them.

Plus some give you a read out for CFM and a conversion to find how much fuel to and size jets to use to achieve the almighty stoichiometric ratio of 14.7

 

[BikerTrash]

definitely EFI. ORS has an economical kit as well.

Off Road Solutions - Products - Engine Upgrades



about your webber. Did you follow the directions for the install? I know some can't. I say that b/c I couldn't.

a possible cheap solution for you might be a carb tool. Don't ask me what it does or how, IDK. All I know is that they are supposed to fix your adjustment problems. and they are cheap IIRC.

I put one on a Honda and could not get it right. I was going to get the tool but the Honda got gone 1st....TG!


If you dial it in, I believe you'll be happy with it....might be worth it...

I tried to follow their instructions but when I did it to the T it barely ran, kept fiddling with the engine barely ran. Thanks for the link, I was reading on Pirate what had to be spliced where... but a ready made wiring harness might be alot better considering my skills, or lack there of, with a soldering iron.

You say the carb nuts came loose right? Well start the rig and take some carb cleaner or starter fluid and spray around the base if the idle shoots up some then the carb- base gasket is shot.

btw injection is alot of work but well worth it

I would try that but the engine wont run for me to get under the hood and try it. I have to keep the RPM at or above 1,500 to keep it running. I am probably just going to take some RTV and seal around the base and adapters just as a band aid and if that fixes it order some new gaskets.

I just hate to keep throwing money at somethign I cant tune and no one in my club can tune. Heck I broke down a while back and brought it to a mechanic friend of mine and when he looked and saw the weber he asked if i could go down the highway with the way it was set. I sais yes that it would just barely do 65. he said thats about as good as he could do with a weber and shut the hood.

I agree with 88.

also, the choke housing. one of the three screws seals a vacuum port. make sure they are tight.

have you ever adjusted the float level? when doing this, it would also be a good time to inspect for debris or sediment in the bowl.

turn the mixture screw all the way right, and back out 2.25 turns.


I think Hilux is referring to a air flow meter. Not the 22RE AFM's. Im talking about a plastic tube deal, with a floaty ball in there that measures air flow. May also be called a carb syncro meter.

A good place to find one of those tools is at a part house that sells 'schawgen junk. Many VW enginegs use dual carbs, and using this tool is the most practicall way to tune them.

Plus some give you a read out for CFM and a conversion to find how much fuel to and size jets to use to achieve the almighty stoichiometric ratio of 14.7

No I have not toutched the float level yet. I will see abotu that in the morning, I pulled my fuel filter and had no trash in it so I am not sure if I have trash in a jet or not.

So basically the meter you are talking about tells just how much vacuum the engine is drawing and based on that I can tell if my jets are right? Could I use the vacuum gage on my Mighty Vac to tell the same thing or do I need to also know the volume of vacume being drawn as well?

 

[Hilux]

I am wrong. I was thinking of this.

http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebG...UniqueID=AE34489F-3056-4628-B2EE-8543DB6390F2