Waterproofing electronics and circuits (1 Viewer)

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Nov 8, 2019
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Leesburg, VA
Hello all,
Recently I drove took my GX470 through a water fording and I had some fairly negative results. Water got into my differential actuator and shorted out the circuit. I talked with my mechanic and he said that most of these "modern" vehicles should not be driven through deep water regardless of snorkel and diff breathers. We know that at times water crossings are unavoidable. I've been looking into different waterproofing techniques for electronics and I am wondering if anyone here as any experience with it. Some of the electronics industry will submerge entire electronic components in what is called a "potting compound" completely sealing them off. I'm considering various options to apply a waterproofing layer directly to the circuits themselves to avoid further expensive repairs nail polish, potting compounds, silicone, spray on rubber, etc). I cant seem to find a lot of information in electronic waterproofing as it relates to vehicles and overlanding. If anyone has any experience, I'd appreciate hearing from you. Thank you
 
Dielectric grease is the easiest probably most reversible method of improving water resistance/decreasing ingress. That's what the grease caps for sprinkler wiring are. A little bit on the existing seals on the Toyota connectors should help a lot with those. I haven't pulled apart the actuator so I can't speak to that, but I'll definitely be interested to see some ideas! Obviously there are tradeoffs with water proofing versus serviceability, and I personally want to preserve serviceability. So for me, the most reversible but still effective technique wins out.
 
I agree that maintaining serviceability is priority. Im thinking more for sealing individual parts rather than the combined parts. I mistype, the part that I shorted out is a "transfer shift actuator." From the dealer it runs $1500 and from my understanding it is none repairable. Fortunately for me, I was able to find the part on ebay for much less. Assuming no one with electrical experience posts anything in the negative for waterproofing, I'll likely apply something to this part. Thanks for the suggestion of dielectric grease. I'll look into it.
 
I agree that maintaining serviceability is priority. Im thinking more for sealing individual parts rather than the combined parts. I mistype, the part that I shorted out is a "transfer shift actuator." From the dealer it runs $1500 and from my understanding it is none repairable. Fortunately for me, I was able to find the part on ebay for much less. Assuming no one with electrical experience posts anything in the negative for waterproofing, I'll likely apply something to this part. Thanks for the suggestion of dielectric grease. I'll look into it.
 
I didn't know the GX470 was waterproof for fording. Dielectric grease can help on connections. When I installed radio equipment for emergency services, we would both crimp and solder any ground connections, as this would remove one corrosion source.

Most modern vehicle electrics don't handle fording/flooding very well. In an old army truck, you might slacken the fan belt, close one or two fording plugs, and drive through. Not so anymore.

If going through water, use a boat. Other than getting the truck a bit cleaner, it usually doesn't come out of the water any better than when it went in.

I believe snorkels were originally invented to move air intakes up much higher to stay above road/desert dust to protect air cleaner, although they are marketed as a scuba accessory nowdays.
 
I believe snorkels were originally invented to move air intakes up much higher to stay above road/desert dust to protect air cleaner, although they are marketed as a s̶c̶u̶b̶a̶ ̶a̶c̶c̶e̶s̶s̶o̶r̶y̶ way to make your rig look cool nowdays.
FIFY
 
I do have a snorkel; it was installed by the previous owner. :) I expect it to keep my air intake cleaner and cooler more than I expect it to keep the vehicle from drowning. Having said that, in the military I did accidently destroy a H1 during a water crossing because it lacked a snorkel (and simply the water was too deep). Water into the air intake on an engine does wonders in killing it. For my purposes, Im hoping to make my vehicle as "water resistant" as possible for the unavoidable water crossings I may encounter out here on the east coast. One thing that has given me pause, maybe even a little hope is that a lot of the Aussie overlanders readily ford water with modern vehicles. I know there will almost always be risk associated with fordings, but there is also risk in breaking a vehicle from numerous other things every time the vehicle is driven, and the risk goes up for anyone offroad. Skids and sliders are for the event of a rock strike/impact, breathers for the possible water event. Just trying my best.
 
I'm learning a bit here for sure. An earlier surprise on the GX470 being waterproof, and further surprise now that areas of the outback are particularly wet, with many deep water opportunities, especially considering all the fires they're currently having there!

My earlier reply still stands. Your truck isn't a 1950's deuce and a half. The overlanding bit looks good on magazines about lifestyle in your local shop, but it falls apart when you drown your vehicle here.

An expert operator will take great care to avoid obstacles like this, and will often step ahead of the vehicle in waders to assess water depth before crossing a flowing stream.

Out here, you can only cross a stream or river on a registered trail, with a $20K fine for violating that from fish & wildlife. Some guys I know have had to pay. Stagnant water is to be avoided.
 

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