Water Pump Selection

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What I was referring to was the 460 in my '56 F100. Big-block Fords are notorious for running hot. The gauge is in the original sender location which is the intake manifold IIRC, but it's an Edelbrock. Sender & gauge are cheap AutoMeter 2-1/16" so they can't be accurate. I've had problems cooling the engine since day 1 of the 1st 1: had 2 Mercedes 7.0L pusher fans in front of the radiator - that didn't work. Changed to a big electric sucker (Spal?) behind the radiator - that didn't work. Changed to a 4-row radiator - that didn't work. Built a custom shroud & went back to a mechanical Flex-A-Lite fan - that worked.
 
Is the radiator new? If not, how many miles are on it? Is your A/C condensor clogged restricting air flow? Did you burp the air out of the cooling system after filling? You said the fan clutch is not new so couldn't that be the culprit since you mentioned it was refilled? Since you used an off brand water pump couldn't that also cause a problem? Just some thoughts.
 
Aseif007 said:
Is the radiator new? If not, how many miles are on it? Is your A/C condensor clogged restricting air flow? Did you burp the air out of the cooling system after filling? You said the fan clutch is not new so couldn't that be the culprit since you mentioned it was refilled? Since you used an off brand water pump couldn't that also cause a problem? Just some thoughts.
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-Rad is good, flows well, when the top hose is hot, the bottom is cold.
-Condenser was removed for testing.
-Coolant was burped when filled similar to buttuglychuck's funnel method.
-Fan clutch loaded with 7000cst.
-Water pump is a rebuilt OEM teq/AISIN casting.
The only thing not OEM is the thermostat, which was tested to working.

What about taking readings with an infrared thermometer aimed at the head?
 
Until you have a new radiator (or one out of a known properly cooling cruiser) or NEW water pump or NEW fan clutch I would not rule them out. Why buy a rebuilt water pump when they are such a pain in the ass to replace on the vehicle? If you have to install it twice was it really worth the money you saved? So, your radiator is hot going in and cool coming out, what is the temp difference? You stated that your fan clutch was loosest when very hot, doesn't that mean that when you need the most cooling your fan clutch is slipping therefore not moving as much air? Are you sure that you did the de-smog correctly?
 
Update:
It has been sometime now since I last installed the oem rebuilt pump. Even with the a/c on in traffic I haven't experienced any of the cooling issues the other pumps offered. My conclusion is that the clearance between the impeller and the housing impacts the efficiency of the pump enough to be inadequate under cooling loading conditions. Look for a tight clearance when selecting a pump, the OEM coincidentally seems to have the tightest.
 
Since the head is currently off my truck....see my other thread, I think I should replace the water pump. The reason I think it should be done is that the current water pump in the truck is from 2007 and I have no clue what brand it is. At the time it was at the shop and they needed to get the truck done, so a parts store wp was installed.
Since the wp is off the truck now, should I just change it out? If so, what is the Toyota wp cost? Also is the $90.79 Aisin (part#WPT028) wp from Rockauto the exact same pump as the OEM pump? I read also read that some people say the the Aisin wp part# for a stock fj60 is WPT029? Rockauto only lists the 028 as the pump for our trucks? Any ideas?

Thanks,
Zack
 
I've found that the water pump through a discount dealer, i.e. C. Dan or 1sttoyotaparts.com is the same price or even cheaper than the aftermarket. And yes, Aisin is identical to the OE Toyota pump but the TEQ will be ground off or not cast. WPT028 is what I used on my my trucks.
 
Last one I bought was about $80 + shipping. Toyota. Year or so, ago... Prolly a very good idea to replace since everything is out. I certainly would, but I'm anal about such things and last thing I'd wanna do is have to dig into that mess again for 80 bux.
 
Cdan waterpump and hoses and gasket price

LazyBones said:
Last one I bought was about $80 + shipping. Toyota. Year or so, ago... Prolly a very good idea to replace since everything is out. I certainly would, but I'm anal about such things and last thing I'd wanna do is have to dig into that mess again for 80 bux.
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Just picked up a new water pump, and the main 4 formed hoses and gasket from Cdan, and it was right around 140. Put it in over the weekend. Took two days from NM, and the pump was cheaper than the OEM ones I priced online.

My rig is a Fj60 with factory A/C, so there is a short section of hose between the lower water pump larger nozzle and a plastic section that is damn near impossible to get to without yanking the alternator. There is a also a short section connection to a pipe going back for what I believe is the oil cooler off of the smaller connection. Two hoses up top one to the thermostat housing from the water pump, and one that runs just to the left of the thermostat to a hard pipe on the passenger side of the 2F.

Highly important note - unlike just about every other hose fitting I've ever seen, the waterpump does *not* have any sort of ridge on it to capture the hose when you clamp it down. This means if you do something stupid (use silicone to lube the new rubber hose) it will CONTINUE to slip off and make you question your sanity as to where the damn leak is coming from. Use a water based lube instead. Note that this happened when I was using a prestone t-junction to pressure test, and city water pressure goes higher than 13lbs, but it was still a enlightening if dumbass thing to do.

$.02

Glenn in Tucson
 
I just put one on and it was the autozone one and it was 90 bucks and it has a lifetime warranty. Works just fine and didn't leak!
My .02 ¢
 
Autozone

theazfj62 said:
I just put one on and it was the autozone one and it was 90 bucks and it has a lifetime warranty. Works just fine and didn't leak!
My .02 ¢
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Keep an ear on it. The one I had on prior was an autozone that was installed in the field in 2010 after the previous one seized while I was up near flagstaff.

Brought the rig back up to running in the last couple of months, and noticed I was running mid to three-quarters on the temp gauge, even before it started getting warm. Started hearing a bearing whine, and thought it was the alternator - replaced and it went away. The rig has had less than 4000 miles on it since I replaced the water pump.

However, it came back. Have had the new water pump since the weekend, and not hearing the whine. Granted, with all the other squeeks and moans of my 30 year old truck, thats not 100%, but I suspect I was able to dodge another seized water pump.

Also, I did split the shroud when I had everything off. Best damn advice I've ever been given - makes getting to belts, fan clutch and water pump a helluva lot simpler. Two minutes with a sawzall, the only thing I don't like, is having to yank the battery to get to the bolt that holds the a/c canister along with the top of the shroud.

$.02

Glenn in Tucson
 
tucson_sailors said:
Also, I did split the shroud when I had everything off. Best damn advice I've ever been given - makes getting to belts, fan clutch and water pump a helluva lot simpler. Two minutes with a sawzall, the only thing I don't like, is having to yank the battery to get to the bolt that holds the a/c canister along with the top of the shroud.
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I know what you mean! I just haven't re installed it yet I will be chopping mine too I just have to have time to do it. Working 6 days a week it's hard to do anything.
 
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