Warm A/C

[DeeRex]

So now that the heat has come into the area, I'm running my a/c again in the truck.
Last year it wasn't bad....nothing stellar, but certainly nothing to complain about.

Well, this year is a whole different story. When I push the button for the AC, the rpm jumps up, but the air is still quite warm. No cooling capability at all.

Not really sure where to start with this; so unless the brain trust can provide some guidance and direction (I have no problems putting hands on), I'm wondering if anyone has any reputable contacts for AC work in the Raleigh area.

I have a 91 and assume it's still R12.
Thanks!
-Derek

 

[GLTHFJ60]

If your RPM comes up then I'd suspect that the electronic side of your AC system is functional. Look at the pulley of your AC compressor for this next test. When the AC button is off, the outer portion of the AC pulley should be spinning and the center portion should be stationary. When you flip the switch, the center portion of the AC pulley should be rotating with the motor. This is how the AC clutch pulley operates. Can you verify that your AC compressor operates like I've described?

If your AC pulley clutch engages properly, then it's time to check the refridgerant in the system. Find someone with an AC manifold like this and hook it up. Do the typical pressure tests to verify that the AC compressor operational and that there is sufficient refrigerant in the system.

http://www.harborfreight.com/a-c-manifold-gauge-set-92649.html


As an alternate, without doing any real investigation, you should try adding some refrigerant with a kit from your local auto store.


**R12 vs R134**

There should be a label somewhere that says R134 if your vehicle has been converted. If not, then the fittings for R134 are different than for R12. Grab one of those kits from the store and see if it'll clip onto your low pressure port. If it does, then you have R134. If not, then you have R12 and are going to have to find a special shop to do it. I'm not aware of anywhere that sells R12 equipment (tools or oil) anymore.

 

[dbenke]

they don't sell r 12 (legally) any more.
Just add the r 134. I've done this lots before, and it work fine. I also add some oil with the refrigerant.
Then you need to check for leaks.

 

[Roxx]

R134a. Is not a drop in refrigerant. U have to change the txv, dryer and rubber seals. Also have to remove all the r12 and vacumm the system. It sound to me that u are low on refrigerant if that is the case and youhave r12 system and want to keep it that way you have some drop in options online. Keep in mind that some of the oprions has flame gases in the mix.

If you have a r12 a/c hf gauges will not fit in your ports unless you buy the residential gauges. R12 and r134a fittings are diferent.

 

[DeeRex]

Thanks, guys.
The discrepency between David and Rafael is shared all over the forum and the web.
One group holds that you can refill 134 (or another alternative) without issue. One group says you have to change everything. Another group mixes to the, saying you should swap some stuff, but other crossover is fine.

I think I'm gonna just try to refill with an alternative like Enviro-Safe or similar. Get some adapters and go to town.
Stay tuned....
-D

 

[izzyandsue]

Dee, just an FYI, Rafael does own an HVAC company in Charlotte, so he does have a good bit of experience and we benefit of having him local to the club.

 

[DeeRex]

Sure - no doubt that the full deal overhaul is probably the best approach.
It's also the most expensive. I would feel it akin to pulling the body off the frame to repaint it (which I know has been done in the club before).
Just not sure it's inherently required -- which I think causes some of the differing opinions.

I've ready plenty of "I just refilled with xxxxx and havent had problems in # years."
I haven't seen any "I just refilled with xxxxx and my car crapped the bed."

 

[DeeRex]

Well all this has turned out a moot point.
I walked out and snapped some shots and lunch (should have done that first -- point learned). There aren't any stickers, but the plugs are definitely R134.

I'll still go through the checks recommended. And I'll definitely be adding some dye to make sure I'm not leaking.
But for now, my fingers are crossed that this just got a little easier for me -- it's starting to get warm out there.
-D

 

[Roxx]

It is not much to replace and i understand there is a lot of mix information out there. I will definally replace the dryer and txv that will be $70 tops the seals come with them. Vacumm the sistem has to be done either way you go. You want to protect ur compressor which is the most expensive item.