VVTI cam seals… (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Bisho
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If it were mine I'd clean it up, screw it back together and run it to verify where the leak is coming from.
My 03 looked like yours on both sides. I ordered valve cover gaskets and when I put a wrench on the bolts to remove all 9 on both sides were less than hand tight. I’d clean and check the bolts.
When you get everything cleaned off the front for the TB, you should be able to pull the pully off the Cam to verify the leak. If it is leaking then pull the valve cover and cams. That's how I would handle it. It would be a bummer but probably the best opportunity to go the extra distance to fix it. Feel for you. If that is a picture of you as a fighter pilot, thank you for serving! I really appreciate it!
IIts actually not bad to replace the seals on a VVTi enine. You can try AT-250 to fix the leaky cam seals.
- Thread starter
- #7
Having just bought the LX this year, I did run a bottle of AT-205 with the last oil change.
I replaced the valve cover gasket, and I’m betting that’s the culprit. This looks like it’s been a slow leak for a long time, based on how caked the crud was. Under the timing cover there wasn’t a lot if oil, and it wasn’t slung around like I’d expect if it was the cam seal. I’ll keep an eye on it and report back if needed.
I replaced the valve cover gasket, and I’m betting that’s the culprit. This looks like it’s been a slow leak for a long time, based on how caked the crud was. Under the timing cover there wasn’t a lot if oil, and it wasn’t slung around like I’d expect if it was the cam seal. I’ll keep an eye on it and report back if needed.
- Thread starter
- #8
Thank you.
It is, unfortunately...same place mine was leaking from. Don't let it go for to long or it'll take out the alternator! That's when I decided it was time. Yes the camshaft has to come out and disassembled, and please don't forget to put the VVti sprocket in "service mode" ( I forget the actual term!) ..... it's not that bad of a job, just time consuming and in the end you'll have new valve cover gaskets too! Order all you parts ahead of time, timing belt, water pump, crank seal, cam seals and make a day of it...
It's an orthogonal question, but what is the best way to clean crud like that?
- Thread starter
- #11
I used brake clean, a scraper and a bristle brush. I also used purple power and shop towels. It’s not ADHD clean, but clean enough I should be able to track down the leak if it comes back.
Thank you for the reply! Do I understand it right that you didn't use water at all? Just wiped everything dry?
If you look under my name, I also dealt with this. I addressed it during a timing belt change. Be extremely carefully with the process of r and r the camshafts as it made of two parts and you may want to replace the end because it may have worn a groove due to a bad seal. Be extremely careful, and make sure cams are available because these things are as delicate as a glass. My mechanic broke one at install and it was during Covid, and they literally got stuck on a boat and never showed up and I had to search the entire world for replacement parts, no joke. I have since looked to see if they are available and I have seen availability but you never know until you actually try to make the order. I had tried making sure bolts were tight, vc seals, and at205 but each time after cleaning it came back in one drive cycle.
Your mechanic followed the steps exactly in the FSM? They are very, very specific.
At what step did the cam shatter? Just curious as this job is in my future.
In youtube videos of this replacement I have seen:
-Mechanic slams cam on table, holds with foot as he uses an impact to remove the timing tube assembly.
-Mechanic slams cam on metal folding chair to disassemble timing tube assembly.
On the one hand this is a precise procedure, but then I see these knuckle draggers videos and think “yikes.”
- Thread starter
- #15
I did not use water
Of course I was not watching them but they are an experienced busy shop that works on many different types of vehicles. The story is that they replaced the cam seal with timing etc and it leaked due to the scoring on the end of shaft. They warrantied the work when I noticed a leak a month or more later, and upon putting together on the second go around, it broke when tightening. So upon final assembly they had me replace the end so that it didn’t have a score mark and would seal well no matter what because they didn’t want a fourth go
It’s been fine for years now. My remark is to say that you need to follow the procedure exactly and be prepared for the new camshaft end or camshaft if needed because s*** may happen. It could have been the mechanic and it likely was just slightly misplaced upon tightening but it wasn’t someone inexperienced or negligent and ultimately that was not my problem because they took care of it all without issue or pushback or blame.And yes, I provided my copy of the paper fsm
and was very specific in asking to use it if their system wasn’t as good.
awesomeissquid
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I believe most of the issues around breaking the camshaft occurs when loosening or tightening the oil passages that hold them down (can’t recall the exact name). Basically if the camshaft is released from one end without releasing the pressure evenly they can snap.
Cam caps.
Appreciate the extra context on the job. It doesnt seem complex. Just a lot of moving parts and steps to follow.
Good call out on wear on the timing tube assembly where the seal rides as well. I guess I will find out when Im in there!
Yeah I’m calling it the end because I didn’t look up the name. It was not very expensive, even going oem. Might just want to peek around at parts just in case. Every mechanic has their bad day, even when doing something they have done before.
This is the best video I've seen as it follows the FSM process to the letter. He even discusses the abovementioned scoring on the cam where the seal rides. Bonus points for the valve adjustment.
It's for a gx470 but it's the same VVTI motor.
It's for a gx470 but it's the same VVTI motor.
