VSV issues

[a4jock]

My 84 FJ60 is pitching a hissy by not passing AZ emissions. I usually can work some magic to get it thru, but this year is no-go.
I have dog eared my emission service manual and have found some issues that I fixed, but when I testVSV1&2, they test bad. Locating these bad boys is tough, but there are numerous other Toyota VSV' that are simular and could be adapted for far less $$$. Has anyone tried this approach?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Do you mean VCV?
You can pick up the new one from Lexus 80 series. They listed for $99 last year but I got my deal to give me one for $66.

 

[Spike Strip]

Yes, those later VSVs should work, if you match up function. The only difference is the type of connector. The earlier 2F ones have the wire lead with a connector. The later 62, 80, series style have the connector built in. I've been looking for a pig-tail lead for those type VSV, to make it look a little more factory, but so far no go... Toyota supposed to sell them, but so far I haven't found a part #.

I *think* the ones I have are for a later 4Runner, or something like that. Like $30 new from Toyota vs $75 used for the FJ60 ones.

 

[OSS]

If you just want to pass the damn test, the state of VSV1 should be Open and the state of VSV2 should be Closed. The diagram in the FSM details this.

Just reconnect the vacuum hose that normally connects to VSV1 directly to the lower ASV port, (shown in the drawing) bypassing the VSV. Next plug the vacuum hose with a ball bearing that leads to VSV2 if that valve always stays open.

Doing the above will put the two VSVs in the state required for the air to flow into the air injection manifold to the exhaust ports during the test.

If you're not happy (paranoid) with VSV1 just sitting there with no hoses connected to it (signs of tampering- which can fail a test if the tech is an ass) just remove it entirely for the test.

But yes, Toyota still sells new VSVs with different plugs. Just google "Toyota VSV" and search by image. When you find one that looks similar, follow the link & you'll likely get a part number.

 

[a4jock]

Thanks for the info Gents.
Turns out VSV (2) is bad. There is continuity with an Ohm meter, but the solenoid doesn't "click". Disassembly revels a fairly simple valve. (see pics). If there is continuity thru the electro magnet in the valve body, I can't figure why it's not working.
Additionally, my rig seems to have a forth VSV that controls the diaphram on the carb. This additional VSV is nowhere listed on the emissions manual or the 2F engine service manual.
BTW, VSV(2) is removed from the engine bay in the pics.
With that all being said, VSV(2)'s vac lines come from the air filter cover thru VSV(2) then to the top port of the ABV. To clarify, so I can get past emissions, I should take the vac line from the air filter cover, bypass VSV(2), and plug it into the top ABV port?
Comments?

 

[bhk]

Additionally, my rig seems to have a forth VSV that controls the diaphram on the carb. This additional VSV is nowhere listed on the emissions manual or the 2F engine service manual.

That one is for A/C idle up. It's not related to emissions.

 

[Spike Strip]

Yes, the VSV on the fender is not an emissions component. The vac line (with finger) is to A/C idle up dash pot.

 

[OSS]

.... I should take the vac line from the air filter cover, bypass VSV(2), and plug it into the top ABV port?
Comments?

The vac hose leading to the top of the ABV needs to be plugged... As in no air flowing through it (for this make shift arrangement). The answer to your question is no. The hoses need to look like they are connected properly to pass visual. Insert a ball bearing in a vac hose to plug it.

 

[a4jock]

Thanks OSS: I will refer to you as the "Emissions Yoda" going forward.
I will re-install my INOP VSV 2 so it will look pretty for the inspection. I will put the Vac lines back where the should go, but being dead, nothing should happen. Now, if I am tracking you correctly, I should put direct vacuum to the lower port of the ASV, basically bypassing VSV 1?
I guess I can pull it off of the VSV 1 port "F" fitting as indicated on Pg 3-19 (top) of the Emission manual.
Sheesh, after 33 years of playing with this vehicle, this is the most mind numbing of all.

 

[OSS]

See the diagram above. Black filled space is vacuum. The source of the vacuum is the intake manifold as shown all in black. Any thin vacuum line in the drawing that is filled in with black has vacuum applied to it. You can see in that drawing that in that condition, there is vacuum applied to the ABV & the ASV.

The reason there is vacuum to the ABV is because VSV2 is closed, preventing a vac leak to the air cleaner. Plugging the hose accomplishes the same thing.

The reason there's vacuum to the ASV is because VSV1 is open, allowing vacuum to pull on the ASV. So route/plug hoses accordingly to get to that state for the test.

 

[a4jock]

Did all the above and and CO is still too high (almost 2x allowed). I'm thinking it's a carb issue, allowing too much fuel into the combustion chambers when loaded (30-40 MPH). Idle figures are very low. I adjusted the idle mixture per emissions manual. I am wondering if the power piston is sticking since there is nothing else to adjust. I hate admit that I have to find a Cruiser mech in Tucson. All the good ones are gone. Any Tucson gents out there?