Waggoner5
SILVER Star
I agree it sounds like a driveshaft vibration. Most unbalanced driveshafts would have a vibration that would start and stop between set speeds. I have seen ujoints do this also.
vibration
- Thread starter euclid
- Start date
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I'm not sure I understand "no rear driveshaft in 2wd...no vibration. Front wheel drive...different vibration".
It does seem removing the rear driveshaft did change something, so the rear driveline is somehow involved. Transfer rear output bearing would be a possible cause.
Since you said the vibration was there before the rear end work, it probably isn't the primary cause, but I do think your rear pinion angle being slightly off contributes, and a set of 2 degree shims might help (worked for lowtideride and for me on my FJ40).
It does seem removing the rear driveshaft did change something, so the rear driveline is somehow involved. Transfer rear output bearing would be a possible cause.
Since you said the vibration was there before the rear end work, it probably isn't the primary cause, but I do think your rear pinion angle being slightly off contributes, and a set of 2 degree shims might help (worked for lowtideride and for me on my FJ40).
kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
Greg, hate to say it but I think it is that funky front bearing race retainer that you have in there. (the big aluminum thingy that did not fit right)
Pull the back of the case off, pull out the high low assembly and see if you can wiggle that big aluminum ring in the front case. My guess; that is worn severely from being loose. Pull it out and I'll bet there will be wear marks on it.
I'll do it for you, if you want to drive it up to NY, but that will take a long time if you can't go over 40.
Pull the back of the case off, pull out the high low assembly and see if you can wiggle that big aluminum ring in the front case. My guess; that is worn severely from being loose. Pull it out and I'll bet there will be wear marks on it.
I'll do it for you, if you want to drive it up to NY, but that will take a long time if you can't go over 40.
euclid
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #26
kevinmrowland said:Greg, hate to say it but I think it is that funky front bearing race retainer that you have in there. (the big aluminum thingy that did not fit right)
Pull the back of the case off, pull out the high low assembly and see if you can wiggle that big aluminum ring in the front case. My guess; that is worn severely from being loose. Pull it out and I'll bet there will be wear marks on it.
I'll do it for you, if you want to drive it up to NY, but that will take a long time if you can't go over 40.
Thanks for chimeing in. Kevin knows my T-case as he helped me rebuild it 2 years ago.
OK, I'll start makeing preps to dive in. I'm thinking if that front bearing race retainer is spun I'll end up needing to replace the front case to fix it right.
I have a feeling you are right.
euclid
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #28
After a conversation with Gary this AM on the phone I'm more convinced that it is in the the case.
Just for kicks I am going to give the driveshaft shop one more shot at it. They arn't charging me, so I figgured one more try. Another set of OEM u-joints on the way from Toyota of Dallas.
If that doesn't work, I'll tear apart the tcase.
Just for kicks I am going to give the driveshaft shop one more shot at it. They arn't charging me, so I figgured one more try. Another set of OEM u-joints on the way from Toyota of Dallas.
If that doesn't work, I'll tear apart the tcase.
If you were getting a bad vibration from the t-case it would have self destructed by now... bearings & gears will beat themslves to death in short order and your vibration would worsen by the mile until 
... If it was in the t-case, and was only when there is stress on the t-case there should be a point somewhere between acceloration & deceleration where there is no stress on the case & therefor the vibration would go away at this point.
I suspect rear driveshaft that since you can pull it & not have any vibration under power & this situation can be duplicated in the situation above. To me this eliminates the t-case
Driveline vibration cause by pinion angle, will change with the amount of power being applied to the driveline since there will always be some slight axle wrap.
this leaves the axle, the tires, forth axle & rear driveshaft..
I had no vibrations with the axle in my truck, but maybe the shippers dropped it off of the back of the truck
although you had the same vibration with your old axle (possibly coincidence but not likely)
That leaves the tires or the front end (Its possible you would not feel this) ... check the wheel bearings but if they were causing this they would self destruct quickly.
try swapping tires with someone... that should eliminate tires.
Is there anyone in your area with an FJ62 that you can swap rear shafts with?
If you need a case I've got a spare 84' 34mm that I'd give you a real good deal on. It should fit
after all this I still think its driveshaft from the symptoms you describe.
You might want to give Jess @ High angle drivelines a call.. He's a very nice guy and has more driveshaft knowledge than anyone I've ever talked to.
hope this helps!
... If it was in the t-case, and was only when there is stress on the t-case there should be a point somewhere between acceloration & deceleration where there is no stress on the case & therefor the vibration would go away at this point.I suspect rear driveshaft that since you can pull it & not have any vibration under power & this situation can be duplicated in the situation above. To me this eliminates the t-case
Driveline vibration cause by pinion angle, will change with the amount of power being applied to the driveline since there will always be some slight axle wrap.
this leaves the axle, the tires, forth axle & rear driveshaft..
I had no vibrations with the axle in my truck, but maybe the shippers dropped it off of the back of the truck
although you had the same vibration with your old axle (possibly coincidence but not likely)That leaves the tires or the front end (Its possible you would not feel this) ... check the wheel bearings but if they were causing this they would self destruct quickly.
try swapping tires with someone... that should eliminate tires.
Is there anyone in your area with an FJ62 that you can swap rear shafts with?
If you need a case I've got a spare 84' 34mm that I'd give you a real good deal on. It should fit
after all this I still think its driveshaft from the symptoms you describe.
You might want to give Jess @ High angle drivelines a call.. He's a very nice guy and has more driveshaft knowledge than anyone I've ever talked to.
hope this helps!
euclid
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #30
Very helpfull indeed. Just talked to Jess.
He thinks it's driveshaft too. He suggested a CV on the transfer end would solve it.
I'm gonna get in touch with a local buddy that has a 62 and bolt his driveshat up then go from there. OEM joints are on backorder on this side of the country, and I want to try another driveshaft before I drop the coin on $OR's shaft.
Still bettin on the case. We'll see...
He thinks it's driveshaft too. He suggested a CV on the transfer end would solve it.
I'm gonna get in touch with a local buddy that has a 62 and bolt his driveshat up then go from there. OEM joints are on backorder on this side of the country, and I want to try another driveshaft before I drop the coin on $OR's shaft.
Still bettin on the case. We'll see...
Before you drop the $$$ on an SOR shaft you might want to get a toyota truck or fj60 front CV shaft off of ebay or vcalssified (usually less than $40) & send it to Jess to be lengthend... I've done this 3 times and its ussually about $200 for jess to do the work including going over the c/v joint etc.
You'll end up with a much better shaft that will be perfect when you decide to spring over & it will get rid of your vibration (its worked for me twice) you will have to cut your perches off & point the pinion at the t-case.
Sound like your shaft builder need to learn a little... atleast he's doing all of this for free
I just talked to Jess 2 hours ago & looks like its going to run me $1100+ for one ton CV rear & standard one ton front
Jess is a great guy & helped me out with a mystery vibration 3 years ago... I rebuilt the rearend, t-case & ujoints & all I needed was a CV
You'll end up with a much better shaft that will be perfect when you decide to spring over & it will get rid of your vibration (its worked for me twice) you will have to cut your perches off & point the pinion at the t-case.
Sound like your shaft builder need to learn a little... atleast he's doing all of this for free
I just talked to Jess 2 hours ago & looks like its going to run me $1100+ for one ton CV rear & standard one ton front
Jess is a great guy & helped me out with a mystery vibration 3 years ago... I rebuilt the rearend, t-case & ujoints & all I needed was a CV
kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
Greg,
The CV is a really good idea, it certainly seems that there could be a mystery angle that is throwing things off. I completely forgot that I had a mystery vibration from the front when in 4WD, everything checked out just fine, nothing wrong, had a driveshaft shop scab an older style 60 CV on to the longer late style shaft, bingo, no more vibration, I could drive 60 in 4WD and not even be able to tell.
Worth a shot. (I think the shop only charged me $70 )
The CV is a really good idea, it certainly seems that there could be a mystery angle that is throwing things off. I completely forgot that I had a mystery vibration from the front when in 4WD, everything checked out just fine, nothing wrong, had a driveshaft shop scab an older style 60 CV on to the longer late style shaft, bingo, no more vibration, I could drive 60 in 4WD and not even be able to tell.
Worth a shot. (I think the shop only charged me $70
)
euclid
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #33
Well, the vibration is gone. It was the u-joints.
Over the last year I went from new toyota u-joints to spicer to neapco to spicer to new version of neapco and now back to toyota. All chaseing the vibration.
The new Toyota OEM joints got rid of my vibration. Nobody had them but Spector so it wern't cheap, but my truck rides smooth up to 65. Havn't driven it faster than that yet.
"It's the little things......That piss me off" Robert Earl Keen Jr.
Thanks again for yall's help.
Over the last year I went from new toyota u-joints to spicer to neapco to spicer to new version of neapco and now back to toyota. All chaseing the vibration.
The new Toyota OEM joints got rid of my vibration. Nobody had them but Spector so it wern't cheap, but my truck rides smooth up to 65. Havn't driven it faster than that yet.
"It's the little things......That piss me off" Robert Earl Keen Jr.
Thanks again for yall's help.
GT,
I went with neapcos on my heavy-walled wheeling driveshaft with the hi-mileage OEM on the OEM driveshaft and the OEM is definitely smoother at all speeds. As we have both learned, more often than not, Toyota OEM is the best option. Glad that you fixed it!
I went with neapcos on my heavy-walled wheeling driveshaft with the hi-mileage OEM on the OEM driveshaft and the OEM is definitely smoother at all speeds. As we have both learned, more often than not, Toyota OEM is the best option. Glad that you fixed it!
euclid said:
kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
That's great Greg
Glad you fixed it, what a weird little thing.
Glad you fixed it, what a weird little thing.
