Valve Adjustment - Fair Price??

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Save your time searching. My old post really didnt contain much other than very high level info.... no pics or step by step. It was written more like a diary.

Also, it is the chain vibration damper that is the part to worry about not the slipper.
When I removed the valve cover, half of the plastic guide was sitting loose and pushed up much higher than the guide on the slipper side. Not the easiest job to fix.... almost on par with the head gasket replacement as far as time and difficulty goes.

Good Luck,
Larry
 
AHHHHHH, Thank You, found the info, also found this:

<Later models got a revised part and no problems have been reported. C-Dan's '93 with approx 130k miles looked good but he replaced it with the new part to be on the safe side.>

-B-

so in theory I should not find a broken chain slipper, so to get this thread back on track

what else should be done at the same time as valve adjustment?

So far I have:

clean throttle body
adjust TB cables
o-ring trick for IAC
PCV valve and gomet/valve cover gasket/saprk plug hole gaskets
EGR checkouts

possibly heat wrap EGR pipe and nearby bundle (gently)? Is it possible to remove the EGR pipe with the valve cover off?

anything else?
 
Also what is the purpose of the chunk of aluminum blocking half the oil filler hole? It annoys me, I am use to looking in and inspecting the valve train for varnish, not possible on the 1FZ,

could there be any harm to routing the bit of metal out wile the valve cover is off?

Only possible reasons for it I can come up with is it is for reinforcement of the cast cover or it is to direct cold added oil down the timing cover instead of on to the hot upper head surface (high stress)
 
prevent oil loss if you lose the cap in the middle of the desert?
E
 
[quote author=e9999 link=board=2;threadid=16927;start=msg165169#msg165169 date=1085689966]
prevent oil loss if you lose the cap in the middle of the desert?
E
[/quote]

LOL I had not thought of that one
 
bump^
 

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