My lid is going to be made tomorrow but I can't seem to find where someone posted the gauge sheet metal used to keep it rigid but not too heavy. Mine will be hinged at the tongue side. Does the face on that side need to be reinforced regardless of the gauge metal used or will it be stiff enough without?
URGENT!! Lid gauge: 12, 14, 16
- Thread starter gaberelli
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depending on how its formed. but for structural rigidity, many have braced the perimeter with square tube. 16ga is what i'd go with, maybe even thinner. i dont remember what i used, but i think it was lighter than 16ga...
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- #3
I think I will go with 1x1" square perimeter with one center 1x1" truss in the center. What gauge will skin that nicely without getting too heavy?
I'm pretty sure that 18 gauge is what the fellow who is doing my wide fenders measured the stock fenders at. That should be plenty heavy for a lid, maybe a little too heavy, because the lid is going to be a lot bigger than a fender.
This is why people go with the structural bracing, as it adds significant stiffness. If you're going with all-steel, you may want to do some measuring with the folks at your shop and consider what they have to say. I'm no engineer. They probably know how to give you satisfaction based on what you're asking for.
As for the end sections, yep, go for thick and stiff.
This is why people go with the structural bracing, as it adds significant stiffness. If you're going with all-steel, you may want to do some measuring with the folks at your shop and consider what they have to say. I'm no engineer. They probably know how to give you satisfaction based on what you're asking for.
As for the end sections, yep, go for thick and stiff.
A little more searching and I am thinking 18 ga for the top and 14 ga for the ends with 1x1 around the base and 1x1 truss in the center. Stop me if I am making a mistake
I'm having one fab'd this week...14ga on top and sides, 12ga front and rear with 1-1/4" sq tubing for a brace in the center. It may be a little heavy but I'm not to worried about it with all the options in strut sizes and strength. I'm sure what your looking at would work just fine too.
Jim
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- #7
Part of it as that I already have two 10" stroke 200# struts to use. If it gets too light, the struts may not work that well with nothing on top of the lid. Any other thoughts? Thanks for the help everyone.
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- #9
I guess I stuck with steel for the cost. Al would be nice, but weight isn't a big concern. I don't want to over engineer it to death with steel either.
Lighter is better IMHO. I would go with 20 gauage and a solid frame to mount it on. Sheet metal is deceiving in how much it weighs.
im pretty sure i used 18ga for the lid. i had a friend form it to make a 4'X6'X4" high lid. 1X2 was used along the long egdes & 1X1 was used for the short edges & cross brace. lid was domed to give more strength and to drip water off easier. i was originally going to make a frame of 1X2 all around, then just skin the top. but i wanted extra height to accomodate more room up top.
aluminium is nice & light, but twice the cost. the lid probably weighs in at about 90-100ish lbs. not bad, but there are numerous struts to use to help lift it, and strut placement plays a key role in its proper function. i didnt need reinforcement on the lid itself as the 1X2 bracing reinforced the ends. but on the trailer side, you will have to add some angle iron in to weld the hinges on to. the 1" tube on the tub perimiter imo doesnt lend itself to enough surface area for good strong hinge placement.
some pics of my lid here. i will be redoing the strut situation. they're too short and not strong enough...but i had to work with what i had on hand at the time:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/trailer-tech/348058-m101-lid-2.html
and my build thread here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/trailer-tech/263936-got-me-m101.html
hope this helps some..
aluminium is nice & light, but twice the cost. the lid probably weighs in at about 90-100ish lbs. not bad, but there are numerous struts to use to help lift it, and strut placement plays a key role in its proper function. i didnt need reinforcement on the lid itself as the 1X2 bracing reinforced the ends. but on the trailer side, you will have to add some angle iron in to weld the hinges on to. the 1" tube on the tub perimiter imo doesnt lend itself to enough surface area for good strong hinge placement.
some pics of my lid here. i will be redoing the strut situation. they're too short and not strong enough...but i had to work with what i had on hand at the time:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/trailer-tech/348058-m101-lid-2.html
and my build thread here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/trailer-tech/263936-got-me-m101.html
hope this helps some..
i guess im prolly too late .. 14 for the top 12 for the ends..
for what its worth. 20 on the top and ends and 1/2 square tube. I can stand on it and it supports my weight @ 235. I used 95# struts and I am moving up to 125 ASAP.
Trailer lid
I used 16g on my lid, which covers my M416. I also built an interior frame to support my RTT. Hinged at the front, I used #200lb gas struts to assit lifting the lid with the RTT attached. I can I lift the entire lid,tent, internal frame up with one hand. No twisting, lid rattle, or any problems. I also mig welded the corners and attached the struts to the internal frame, not the lid.
I used 16g on my lid, which covers my M416. I also built an interior frame to support my RTT. Hinged at the front, I used #200lb gas struts to assit lifting the lid with the RTT attached. I can I lift the entire lid,tent, internal frame up with one hand. No twisting, lid rattle, or any problems. I also mig welded the corners and attached the struts to the internal frame, not the lid.
- Thread starter
- #15
Thanks for all the comments. Its at the fabricator now. Ill post pics when done. I think it will be 14 or 12 ga on the ends and 18 or 16 ga on top with a truss in the center and 1x1 square perimeter. I have 200# struts and a paddle latch to install too. The hinges are weld on barrel hinges.
Can't wait for pics...
- Thread starter
- #18
The fabricator is an acquaintance and is giving me a break on it if it didn't need to be a priority. If it takes too long though I won't have enough time to prep it for our upcoming trips. I may have to prod them soon to get to work on it. I'll post up when it is back to me.
What is the longest unsupported span.... anything higher then 24" i would not go any thinner then 18 ga. But again you are not suppose to use the sheet metal to support anything. In the end it really depend on the design of the inner structure down to the flange where the lif will be touching the trailer.
- Thread starter
- #20
The plan is to have one truss in the center and a perimeter made out of 1x1. They haven't started yet and I'm not sure whether or not to go with 12 or 14 ga on the ends and 16 or 18 ga on the top. I want the struts to connect to the truss. What do you think?