Upper control arm issues

[nmfoto]

First off, I have been lurking on this site since I purchased my Landcruiser last January. So very helpful. I purchased the Icon 3.0 stage 7 kit for my suspension and I've had nothing but issues. I loved Icon on my two previous vehicles, but this one is a mess. First, the upper control arm doesn't have near the clearance it needs for the large diameter coil-overs. It's impossible to get the hoses routed out of the way so they don't rub. The control arm doesn't offer nearly the adjustment it needs to get the vehicle aligned. What upper control arm is heavy duty enough and offers the most adjustment? Eventually all the Icon crap will have to go. Icon never returns my calls, the back shock on the left is already leaking, and there's only 13,000 miles on the vehicle. Still trying to figure out which way to go with shocks and coil-overs as well. Thanks so much in advance.

 

[turbo8]

Do the Tundra front end swap, you will gain more room for a 3.0 coilover.

 

[bloc]

The issue is, I need my truck for the job I do. I spend so much of my time off road in really rough conditions, so I understand they need to be rebuilt more often.

It sounds to me like you need a different shock setup then, as the 3 or 4 pictures of icon rears I’ve seen with the upper mounting bolt simply ripped out of the shock body puts them on the “absolutely avoid” list for me. That is an unacceptable failure for something in this price range. Then pile their customer service on top.

 

[dubaicruiser]

Hey all, bumping up this thread since I am now looking for a new UCA. All of your advice is welcome. I've been fishing through the threads for a long time but still a bit confused.

FWIW I needed the adjustable UCA for my mild Tough Dog lift which was <2" up front. Without it I couldn't get caster back up to even the bottom of the Toyota spec. That was by a specialty alignment shop, even. I agree most of the lift kit manufacturers say if you're lifting no more than 2-2.5" you don't need an aftermarket UCA, but my experience (and those of a small number on the forum) seems to differ. I've seen the same with stock weights but different left-vs-right side using the longer rear spring coils, too.

I have a very similar situation with my LC200, which is also on a Tough Dog 1.5-inch lift. Over the past four years or so, my alignment always slowly gets bad, and eventually, I got irregular wear on my tires. I have tried different and specialty alignment centers and have done roadforce balancing as well, but the issue persists as I drive even when not off-roading.

As usual, I thought aftermarket UCAs were not needed for lifts below 2 inches, but I couldn't find any other reasons for the issue. No other parts seem to be bad, so I am assuming the stock UCA is not handling it well. My tires are 275/70R18 Cooper AT3 XLT. Any thoughts on what might be causing this?
(I might or might not change the suspension in the future to get a 2 or 2.5-inch lift. I wanted to go for 75-height profile tires too, but they are very hard to source here.)

The easily available option here is Dobinsons. Is the non-adjustable one okay, or is it worth double the money to go for their adjustable one?

SPC is a bit hard to find locally, and Icon, Total Chaos, etc., are a bit expensive.

Also how is Camburg?

 

[linuxgod]

Hey all, bumping up this thread since I am now looking for a new UCA. All of your advice is welcome. I've been fishing through the threads for a long time but still a bit confused.


I have a very similar situation with my LC200, which is also on a Tough Dog 1.5-inch lift. Over the past four years or so, my alignment always slowly gets bad, and eventually, I got irregular wear on my tires. I have tried different and specialty alignment centers and have done roadforce balancing as well, but the issue persists as I drive even when not off-roading.

As usual, I thought aftermarket UCAs were not needed for lifts below 2 inches, but I couldn't find any other reasons for the issue. No other parts seem to be bad, so I am assuming the stock UCA is not handling it well. My tires are 275/70R18 Cooper AT3 XLT. Any thoughts on what might be causing this?
(I might or might not change the suspension in the future to get a 2 or 2.5-inch lift. I wanted to go for 75-height profile tires too, but they are very hard to source here.)

The easily available option here is Dobinsons. Is the non-adjustable one okay, or is it worth double the money to go for their adjustable one?

SPC is a bit hard to find locally, and Icon, Total Chaos, etc., are a bit expensive.

Also how is Camburg?

Your alignment shouldn’t drift unless (a) some component has play/wear and is getting worse, or (b) your alignment shop isn’t tightening things sufficiently. Note that (b) is pretty typical as our rights require very high torque on the LCA cam bolts (207# IIRC, vs like 120 in a 4Runner), and the tie rods should probably be tightened more than the FSM says.

The only reason to get an aftermarket UCA is if the alignment shop can’t get caster to at least 3 degrees. Post a copy of your most recent alignment specs. Otherwise I’d stick with OEM.

You should be able to source SPC from Summit Racing. That said OME or Dobinson’s are likely going to be just fine for you. The only advantage to SPC is that the balljoint is adjustable and easily replaced without removing or swapping the arm. The adjustment can come in handy if your LCA cams are frozen as a shop can do the adjustments just at the UCA… however in my experience 98% of alignment shops don’t know what to do with the UCA and won’t touch it anyway.

 

[dubaicruiser]

Thanks a lot for the reply.

I replaced the tires since all four of them were in really bad shape. I took photos while the front driver-side wheel was out and noticed the OEM UCA ball joints are gone.

The guy who did the alignment and test drive said all bushes of the steering box should be replaced as he feels there is a small play in the steering, and its also the reason for above issues.

The truck now drives like butter after the alignment and balancing, but I want to make sure the new tires won't go bad like the old ones. I'm taking it in for further checks. So, as you mentioned, which parts are more prone to wear that could affect the tires? They coulnt find anything else, but I can ask them to look hard to specific parts.

I am thinking of getting the Tough Dog UCA (stronger than the normal Dobinsons?) as I might get a higher lift in the coming years.

.

 

[bloc]

I took photos while the front driver-side wheel was out and noticed the OEM UCA ball joints are gone.

That ball joint may be just fine.. many seep small amounts of grease while still operating without any slack, which is what actually impacts alignment and handling.

It would come down to whether there is any play in the joint, not what it looks like from the outside.

 

[Climbingnut]

Should you decide to go for some UCA's, I would recommend to go for something that requires less maintenance. I have SPC's on my 200 and I will likely replace them with Dobinson's the next time I swap out my suspension. The SPC's require quite a bit of maintenance. Annually I have to remove them to re-grease the UCA bushings, and the ball joint leaks like crazy. I'd give it a pass if it was just the grease at the ball joint, cause that can be cleaned up and re-greased. However, needing to remove the damn things every 12 months or so to maintain the UCA bushings is a PITA. I'll opt for OEM style rubber bushings and even an OEM rubber style 555 ball joint with the built in caster. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Cuse Cruiser]

Should you decide to go for some UCA's, I would recommend to go for something that requires less maintenance. I have SPC's on my 200 and I will likely replace them with Dobinson's the next time I swap out my suspension. The SPC's require quite a bit of maintenance. Annually I have to remove them to re-grease the UCA bushings, and the ball joint leaks like crazy. I'd give it a pass if it was just the grease at the ball joint, cause that can be cleaned up and re-greased. However, needing to remove the damn things every 12 months or so to maintain the UCA bushings is a PITA. I'll opt for OEM style rubber bushings and even an OEM rubber style 555 ball joint with the built in caster. Just my 2 cents.

FYI, SPC has gone to a maintenance free ball joint