100 series gurus: is this a proper install of the castle / nut cotter pin for upper ball joint? I had these SPC UCAs installed by a dealer back in Feb / March. Today replacing wheel bearings and was going to check ball joints for tightness while in there. I need to pull FSM but I think the cotter pin should be a hole higher on the bolt and between the top of the teeth of the castle nut??
There's usually only one cotter pin hole position (that I know of). Non-OE parts often give you this 'less than optimal' result. I wouldn't worry too much.
There's usually only one cotter pin hole position (that I know of). Non-OE parts often give you this 'less than optimal' result. I wouldn't worry too much.
100 series gurus: is this a proper install of the castle / nut cotter pin for upper ball joint? I had these SPC UCAs installed by a dealer back in Feb / March. Today replacing wheel bearings and was going to check ball joints for tightness while in there. I need to pull FSM but I think the cotter pin should be a hole higher on the bolt and between the top of the teeth of the castle nut??
That is not correct and the mechanic that did it is incompetent. There is another hole, as pointed out earlier, that should have been used. You want to torque the nut, then tighten further until you get a hole aligned for the pin. I would check both sides.
That is not correct and the mechanic that did it is incompetent. There is another hole, as pointed out earlier, that should have been used. You want to torque the nut, then tighten further until you get a hole aligned for the pin. I would check both sides.
Anyone got a pic of properly installed and cotter pinned castle nuts on the upper and lower ball joints? I seem to recall there’s a specific way Toyota wants you to bend the cotter pin.
Anyone got a pic of properly installed and cotter pinned castle nuts on the upper and lower ball joints? I seem to recall there’s a specific way Toyota wants you to bend the cotter pin.
The cotter pin is just insurance against the nut loosening. As long as it’s inside the nut groove (unlike the first pic) and bent so it doesn’t fall out it’s fulfilling its purpose. I suppose you don’t want the ends of the pin to rub on a wire or something, so pay attention.
That is not correct and the mechanic that did it is incompetent. There is another hole, as pointed out earlier, that should have been used. You want to torque the nut, then tighten further until you get a hole aligned for the pin. I would check both sides.