Unlockable Front Hubs for FJ Cruiser

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Joined
Jan 22, 2008
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If you have a 4WD Cruiser with the automatic, you would benefit from unlockable hubs to disconnect the wheels from the axle and diff, etc. when on the hwy.

I emailed these guys

Solid Axle Industries

To ask if they were doing a version of their Spyntec conversion kits for the Cruiser and they said they needed to know what the demand would be.

Sooo... how about we email them and ask for this? Interested?

I for one do not mind at all getting out to lock and unlock hubs for all the benefits you get.

DC
 
From what I've read, there is alot more to putting manual hubs on than pulling the existing.

Second, maybe a mistype, but only the 6 speed manual trans are full time 4 wheel drive.

If I had a 6 speed (I have the auto), I might look into a 2nd t-case that allows you to seperate the front and rear outputs( front whhel, rear wheel or 4 wheel drive).

Just my thoughts-Bill
 
Hi Bill,

Here's what Solid Axle says about the Jeep version:

Until now, new JK owners have been living with the idea that
converting to a fixed spindle front axle wasn’t an option. With the
implementation of ABS, and the new Electronic Stability Program
(ESP), JK owners have been forced to accept the limitations that
the unitized bearing front end has to offer. Larger tires and heavy
accessories place unwanted stress on the factory assembly leading
to an unfortunate and costly failure.

Solid Axle Industries has created an option for the JK by adding it
to our new SpynTec line of fixed spindle conversion kits. SpynTec
kits restore the ability to service and maintain your vehicle as
needed, while reducing the wear and tear to your driveline by
allowing for the front hubs to be unlocked. Your ABS and ESP
functions are retained with the combination of our uniquely
designed hub and spindle.



It looks like they have it worked out. I, for one, am willing to upgrade the hubs on a new Cruiser, but I don't want to change or mod the TC on a brand new vehicle.

And yes, it is the 6-speed that is FT only, and unlockable hubs won't work on it. They will work on the PT system with the automatic because when you select 2WD, you disconnect the TC from the front diff. Then it makes some sense to have unlocking hubs to stop turning the diff all the time while driving.

I hope they will offer one for the Cruiser. If anyone is interested, email them!

thanks

DC



From what I've read, there is alot more to putting manual hubs on than pulling the existing.

Second, maybe a mistype, but only the 6 speed manual trans are full time 4 wheel drive.

If I had a 6 speed (I have the auto), I might look into a 2nd t-case that allows you to seperate the front and rear outputs( front whhel, rear wheel or 4 wheel drive).

Just my thoughts-Bill
 
Last edited:
ADD?

Doesn't the ADD system on the AT part-time FJC's mean that only 1/2 of the front axle is spinning, and the front diff and drive shaft are disconnected? I looked at the website, and the locking/unlocking hubs are like $1,400. That might be steep to solve the problem for the few parts that move in the part-time system, unless I'm missing something.

Now, for me, this might actually be a great thing. I have a MT FJC, but with a part-time Inchworm tcase. Because it's MT, I don't have ADD and thus in 2wd, I (auto) spin my front drive shaft, my diff, and both of my front axle pieces - even though they're not driven from the tcase. So unlocking hubs would save alot of unnecessary "drag" spinning for me.
 
Seems like when traveling on hwy you would turn the diff unless you have hubs. With the price of gas today, I don't want to turn a dang thing I don't have to.

:eek:

I'd rather spend the money on someone's ingenuity than on someone's oil.

my .02

DC
 
Wow, $1400 is a lot to save 2 to 3 mpg's! It would be at least 3 years just to break even unless you put mad miles on your rig.

WARNING MATH CONTENT:
If you drove 20K miles per year, the difference in 3 mpgs would be:

@ 16mpg improved to 19mpg is 198 gals/yr. At $3/gal that about $600.

@ 17mpg improved to 20mpg is 176.5 gals/yr. At $3/gal that's about $550.

And so on - less savings the higher your mpg is right now.
(adjust for gas prices in your area)

Now, if you are driving it 20K miles/yr. and it takes till year four to realize savings, you've already put 60K on these new hubs plus all the other wear and tear items. That would be hard to justify in my eyes just for the mpgs.

Now if you're doing it because you want insurance on the trail to be able to drive home after some front axle carnage then it might be worth the investment.

Me, I'm going to suck up the extra $50 a month and put the $1400 toward a future SAS (with locking hubs).
 
Then again take that money and spend it on something that will help you off road.

From the Inchworm website with regards to the "lefty" transfer case.

"
IMPORTANT NOTES:
-Lefty is not synchronized like the stock Tacoma/4Runner/FJ Cruiser part time 4wd transfer case is. This means that part time 4wd vehicles will need to come to a stop before shifting into 4wd. However, the ADD (automatic differential disconnect) can be wired to an independant switch and can be locked ahead of time (think of it as locking your hubs) so that 4wd can be engaged while moving. Contact Inchworm Gear for more details.

-Lefty is a part time 4wd transfer case. Full time 4wd vehicles (like the manual FJ Cruiser) will become part time 4wd with the Lefty installed. "
 
IMO spending money on Lefty was one of the absolute best modification that I did. I added a SPST switch to the dash that allowed me to engage ADD before I started driving. Then when I needed 4WD I could easily pull it into 4WD w/o stopping. By engaging ADD you bring the front drive shaft up to speed with the tcase and don't have to worry about the tcase not being synchronized.
 
Has no one considered the savings from reducing CV wear?
 
Has no one considered the savings from reducing CV wear?

:meh: 125,000 miles so far on my factory original CV's, including a lot of off-road and some fairly ambitious wheeling.

But my ADD has failed twice, so I wish Toyota had just used selectable hubs in the first place instead of the overly-complicated ADD system.
 
:meh: 125,000 miles so far on my factory original CV's, including a lot of off-road and some fairly ambitious wheeling.

But my ADD has failed twice, so I wish Toyota had just used selectable hubs in the first place instead of the overly-complicated ADD system.

Thats impressive Lee. Shows somebody knows how to drive, tackling the trails you have without a CV failure, well done...:cheers:
 
Thats impressive Lee. Shows somebody knows how to drive, tackling the trails you have without a CV failure, well done...:cheers:

Thanks Jerry, maybe I'm just lucky though. The Lefty gearing sure helps a lot, and I installed mine relatively early in my truck's life.
 
if you are talking about lower tc gear ratio (lefty) then you are indeed an awesome driver. As the lower ration compounds the force on the CV's or anthing downstream from the TC.
I know this is an old thread but i too would love to convert to NON ADD and lock out hubs such as Toyota's PU with IFS had for a while. has anyone used all older model stock Toyota IFS parts to do this?
 
if you are talking about lower tc gear ratio (lefty) then you are indeed an awesome driver. As the lower ration compounds the force on the CV's or anthing downstream from the TC.

True, but the lower gearing also allows you to take an obstacle much slower with much more control, which I really like. 100% of the CV failures I have personally seen and/or repaired on the trail were due to excessive use of throttle on FJC's with stock transfer cases. I'm sure there are people who have had them fail for other reasons, this is just my own personal experience.
 
ys that is exaclty what i meant by awesome driving, Slow and skillfull line picking. Hit the gas and hope for the best is not going to work long with CV's
 

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