unistrut roof racks

[Fantom]

Yes, you want really good, heavy duty sliders (for drawers and the like), they have them, some are expensive though.

Well, it looks like I'm going to have another project to design.

 

[baxter650]

I happen to know a place that can build you a die and stamp the parts if that helps, this is right up our alley.
We may already have roll forming tooling to make the clamp portions for the brackets, there are lots of profiles we already do that look similar.
The only change would be changing hole position and cutting off to length.
I work for Helton Industries in Abbotsford, we have many rollformers, punch presses, vacuum forming and a full tool and die shop.
Vince

 

[MrHaron]

I'm interested. Would you say powder coat or what to finish them up?

 

[Fantom]

I would look at powder coat or find out the cost of galvanizing.
I've started the design and found ways of making it a little different and better in some spots.

 

[Fantom]

OK,
Here is the model that I am going to be looking at producing. It is different from the original idea by a fair bit. The top piece that the channel strut would sit in and attach to is larger and gives more mounting options. There are added tie down holes in the side brackets. The tensioner has been beefed up to make sure it never lets go and is a seperate piece that is welded to the main bracket (unlike the original design that would bend under extreme stress).
I'll be finding out if my shop can deal with this or if I need a more custom die and then I'll harass Vince for a solution.
As it stands, it will position the bottom of the strut (the part closest to the roof) 6" up from the gutter on which it will sit on. This allows a couple inches of space on the 60 series.
This will bolt up to any gutter, and allow a roof rack on a 70 series with an FRP top as well.
The configurations for the roof rack are limitless with the use of strut.
The finish on these would be powder coating, black.
The hardware would be all stainless.

 

[Enigma]

Is the lower portion of the gutter clamp flange thin enough (yet still strong) to clear the weather stripping on the various doors as they open and close? That's a problem I have with the Thule 300 foot mounts on my 80 series.

 

[Fantom]

Yes, the lip on the bottom is the same thickness as the entire clamp, 1/8", due to the small size of the bend it will not let go.
Measure the distance from the top of the door to the bottom of the gutter and let me know what you have there. In almost all vehicles there is around 1/8-3/16" of space at least.

 

[canucksafari]

So have you decided on a high roof option? I bet you'd get some interest on Delica.ca.

 

[Fantom]

I am looking at that option as well, I would need to know the roof height in relation to the gutter height to make the necessary adjustments.

 

[canucksafari]

I am looking at that option as well, I would need to know the roof height in relation to the gutter height to make the necessary adjustments.

I'll see if I can find a Deli to measure.

 

[speycaster]

I would probably be interested too.

mel

 

[Enigma]

I am looking at that option as well, I would need to know the roof height in relation to the gutter height to make the necessary adjustments.

3 1/2" +/- from underside of gutter to top of roof, measurement at rear passenger door.

6 1/2" from underside of gutter to top of Thule load bar/with style 300 foot mount.

 

[Fantom]

I was refering to the heights for the Delicas.
The design I got right now is sitting a little taller than that Thule design. I have 6" from the gutter to the base where the strut sits, with the addition of the strut at 7/8" for the shallow or 1 3/8 or 1 5/8" for the deeper.

 

[Fantom]

I got pricing.
A set, one pair of mounts, powder coated, with mounting hardware (stainless) but not including the strut material I can sell for $110.00. Based on getting an order of about 16 pairs made all at once. If several people would go into 2, or 4 bar configurations, they that would work. I've got a 4 bar configuration on my truck.

Unistrut, the perforated, shallow channel P3300T, can be puchased from Unistrut or I could supply it for $4.50 a foot, plus additional hardware to fit your needs.

So, when everything is said and done, one cross bar, ready to install at 5' across (for example) would be about $140-145. Again, based on a batch of 16 sets.

So is anyone serious?

For out of town people, this would also be a good option if there is a Unistrut or other electrical/building supplier near by as they can get the strut directly and cut down on shipping costs.

 

[canucksafari]

Best to go with the regular Cruiser height for the mounts. I don't think we are going to see any interest right now to waste time for those ones. You pricing is very good Mat and we know it will be way over engineered compared to other stuff on the market.

 

[Fantom]

It will, if I get enough people interested to actually place the order to get that price. Otherwise, it goes up by about $20 for the kit if I only do a batch of 8 pairs, which is still not bad.

 

[Fantom]

Here are some pictures of the original Unistrut roof rack mounts that are no longer produced. Now mine, are a much more upgraded and different version of this, but fully compatible with Unistrut and other products of similar design (there are other brands as well).
The configurations and options are endless.

 

[Fantom]

This is my, altered, and upgraded design that is compatible with all engineered strut systems of similar format.

 

[canucksafari]

I like how that one nut snugs up the clamp vertically and it is from the top. If there is enough room to get a deep socket over the nut, it'll make mounting a breeze with an air wratchet. My current ones have two bolts from below. It works but you got to go back and forth to get even pressure.

 

[Fantom]

Yes, there is enough room, and the nuts would be nylock nuts. I don't think I would be using an air ratchet on it, it is 1/4" stainless hardware and you don't really need or want to go past 10-14ft/lbs.