Build Unicorns are real... My dream car FJ73 build

[2fpower]

Why can’t you move the engine back?

What trans are you running, I am not sure.

Cheers

H55f transmision, stock on this vehicle.

Engine is currently right at the firewall, just touching the hump sides.

I am going to strip interior today to see if we can alter the humps.

 

[2fpower]

those issues from the bellhousing are because it's really intended to bolt a H42 to a SBC - which has some bellhousing bolts in different spots, and the grinding the on the opening on the transmission side is typical whenever installing a H55f to a H42 bellhousing, even with Toyota stuff.
The clutch fork pivot pin being provisions being missing is pretty bad though - I wonder if that was just an accident?

I wouldn't be worried about the bellhousing/motor bolt differences however make sure the bolts you are using are as long as possible, and ideally a good quality flanged head bolt. The OEM LS bolts are good, the various "LS engine bellhousing bolt kits" on Amazon are a good option as well, I've used all of them on many projects.
It looks like the bolts you have in there have Grade 5 markings, are you sure they're metric??

I have those same LS3 manifolds on my FJ62 swap and they are tight, and that's a wider chassis. I'm going to be using the Summit swap manifolds on another FJ62 next month, they look a lot better for frame clearance. there are several companies that make that style manifold

Lots to get through here. You have such great knowledge on this stuff.

On the bolts, we used the bolts provided by Advanced adapters, yes long thread, and I agree were not metric. They threaded by hand in about 7 revolutions and then were snug, so we drove them in... i never thought they might be the wrong thread. @kc_chevota Thoughts? At this point with aluminum head, not sure worth trying to pull them out and clean them out....

On the exhaust headers... on the driver side if the dump was higher and rotated back, there is plenty of room there by the transmission. On the pass side, the starter is in that same area, so really would be best if the dump was tighter to the engine.

@thatcabledude talked about those Hooker headers earlier this thread, so might look at those...

Hooker Headers 8501HKR Hooker LS Cast Iron Exhaust Manifolds | Summit Racing

Summit swap manifolds sound like it would be similar.

Summit Racing SUM-G9080 Summit Racing® Cast Exhaust Manifolds | Summit Racing

both of these in the comments talk about how tight to the block they are... would not mind finding a pair to test fit....

 

[2fpower]

One note for anyone wanting to do this swap is that the fork release bearing, and fork have to be from a pre-84?. Luckily I don't throw anything away, so had one sitting on a shelf nearby. It also appears I need to use a early hydraulic clutch slave cyliner, or at least the adjustable head from one.

Advanced sent a new bearing that you press onto the old style toyota release bearing assembly.

 

[cruisermatt]

I had a few of the lower block/bellhousing bolts rattle out in Colorado. Ended up having to drill through the block and put a nut on the otherside in the campsite. Not a fun time. Now is a good time to make sure it's right

Time to get out the 5lb sledge and start beating that firewall!!

 

[2fpower]

I had a few of the lower block/bellhousing bolts rattle out in Colorado. Ended up having to drill through the block and put a nut on the otherside in the campsite. Not a fun time. Now is a good time to make sure it's right

Time to get out the 5lb sledge and start beating that firewall!!

care to guess what the correct thread pitch is?

 

[2fpower]

Thinking ahead, what starter do you all get for this application?

Once I get it in final location, the plan is to see if the AC fits at the bottom pass stock location. If not, will have to start looking at kits to raise it up higher.

I need to order a new water pump as well, just stock pump I assume?

 

[thatcabledude]

Thinking ahead, what starter do you all get for this application?

Once I get it in final location, the plan is to see if the AC fits at the bottom pass stock location. If not, will have to start looking at kits to raise it up higher.

I need to order a new water pump as well, just stock pump I assume?

Stock pumps are totally fine, but there are several different inlet locations. Once you have your intake sorted, radiator sorted, etc, is when I’d look at pumps. You running mech fan or electric?

 

[cruisermatt]

care to guess what the correct thread pitch is?

m10 1.5
Stock starters are fine
Any water pump other then a truck accessory drive won’t have the right belt offset unless you use spacers between it and the block

 

[White Stripe]

@cruisermatt and @thatcabledude want to pick your brain....

Got a few friends coming over to start this party. @kc_chevota one of the most talented fabricator and mechanic I know of, @CrowleyFJ40 smartest guy I know-- but I don't know a lot of people.

Plan is to start the LS swap this weekend. Here is my mental notes and wanted to see what I am not thinking of. I have already powerwashed everything as good as I could.


1. Identify starter wire, tach wire, coolant temp, oil pressure wire on existing engine harness. Flag

2. pull front clip off car to make easier work.

3. cut exhaust

4. pull engine/tranny

5. powerwash clean frame without engine.

6. cut existing motor mounts off frame.

7. drop diesel fuel tank

8. hook up LS to tranny with advanced adapter parts, new clutch from @cruiseroutfit

If I recall, tranny needs to move forward several inches. Any confirmation on amount, or how I know where it needs to be?

Any suggestions for height, angle of driveline, positioning, etc?

I have not started working on the harness, so that will be after it is placed in the car.

View attachment 2499098

What model Ls is that? Is it new or used? I believe Cadillac manifolds hug the block really well. Can't remember for sure...it's one of the car manifolds hugs the block really well and dumps slightly close to the center of the block.

 

[2fpower]

What model Ls is that? Is it new or used? I believe Cadillac manifolds hug the block really well. Can't remember for sure...it's one of the car manifolds hugs the block really well and dumps slightly close to the center of the block.

LM4 aluminum block 5.3 New motor.

 

[2fpower]

@tornadoalleycruiser @orangefj45

is there a different age 55F top plate with a shifter maybe further back?

 

[orangefj45]

@tornadoalleycruiser @orangefj45

is there a different age 55F top plate with a shifter maybe further back?

There are two versions: 40 and 60/70 series. But there are no year splits.
Georg @ Valley Hybrids

 

[TonyP]

What model Ls is that? Is it new or used? I believe Cadillac manifolds hug the block really well. Can't remember for sure...it's one of the car manifolds hugs the block really well and dumps slightly close to the center of the block.

The Caddy manifolds will more than likely still interfere. If they do on an 80 frame they probably will on a 70 frame. The Hookers are worth the shot. Maybe @SNLC can do a couple quick measurement for you on my setup with those Hookers.

 

[White Stripe]

The Caddy manifolds will more than likely still interfere. If they do on an 80 frame they probably will on a 70 frame. The Hookers are worth the shot. Maybe @SNLC can do a couple quick measurement for you on my setup with those Hookers.

What about these...

2004-2006 Pontiac GTO LS1 LS2 5.7L 6.0L Factory Exhaust Manifolds New GM NOS | eBay

Find great deals for 2004-2006 Pontiac GTO LS1 LS2 5.7L 6.0L Factory Exhaust Manifolds New GM NOS . Shop with confidence on eBay!

www.ebay.com

 

[2fpower]

@kc_chevota Had had a friend to help me get this engine that had a set of tube headers that may fit the bill. Going to pick them up soon. Today’s job was to get that upper bolt figured out, and I was going to clean and re-tap all the bolts but decided to wait to do that until we pull the engine next time. Here is my half bolt washer thing I made... aluminum.

 

[2fpower]

Then I stripped the interior to see what we can do with the positioning of the shifter. I was not expecting to see carpet in this good condition...

 

[2fpower]

I was also not expecting to see a rear heater..

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Good to see that your OEM sound deadening hasn't turned into a gelatinous mess.

 

[robmobile73]

We got everything put together and stab the engine in motor mounts would not have worked very well but running into some problems. First off Can’t and get the engine back far enough so that the shifter is in the same location. Probably about 4 inches forward now. Second is the headers I bought dump right into the frame...

View attachment 2502818

View attachment 2502819

View attachment 2502820

There are alot of ways to do things. I tend to try and find an easy way that will work and be durable enough.....It looks like you have alot of clearance between the hood and the top of the engine. If you jack up the engine a few inches you can probably make a downpipe with an immediate turn that will clear the frame. Put a space on your motor mounts. Not sure how it is for your LC but when swapped a 4BT in my old pickup I had several inches up and down that I could position the motor. You should be able to put a S bend in your shifter or make one with your shifter and a bent piece of rod to get the shift handle where you want it and not hitting the dash. You may have to enlarge the hole in the floor and use a different shift boot to do this. It's going to drive great when you finish!

 

[2fpower]

m10 1.5
Stock starters are fine
Any water pump other then a truck accessory drive won’t have the right belt offset unless you use spacers between it and the block

sorry for the stupid question -- am I looking for a LS starter or for SBC, going back to the issue with the bellhousing being really for a SBC,