Build Unicorns are real... My dream car FJ73 build

[2fpower]

You may have to play with hood/front axle clearance if you are keeping that truck intake manifold.

Good point, although a hood bump or scoop is in the future for this one.

 

[thatcabledude]

Good point, although a hood bump or scoop is in the future for this one.

Good! You will probably need it

 

[Bazz]

Any idea what part number you bought?

I didn’t purchase them, so I can’t verify my specific ones, but I’m 99% sure they are:

81551-90K09
81561-90K09

If you decide to go that route, I’ve got a pic of the wiring as well should that be of any help.

 

[Honger]

Looking forward to see the swap move forward. Loving where you are taking this truck...

Also, I overdue for watching Aliens and Office Space again.

 

[SNLC]

Sounds like a sound plan to me. Unless there is reason because of the 7x platform that I don’t know about, I don’t know why you’d have to move the trans forward. Seems like you want to keep the t-case in the factory spot. I’d say set it all in there with T-case bolted at the factory location and see where the engine lands.

Position to fit! Lol. I imagine there will be very little wiggle room side to side between frame rails. I’d set the angle at whatever makes your driveline happy at your ride height.

With help you’ll probably have this done by Monday

I like to keep the V8 swaps as far back to the firewall as possible. Most the adapters (Marks) puts them to far forward in my opinion. Keeping it as far back as possible usually makes for no issues with pan to front axle and allows the use of a mechanical fan.

Cheers

 

[2fpower]

I bought the new factory Keyset that @WarDamnEagle had found for our 70 series rigs and realized afterwards that it did not come with keys for the rear door or gas door. The set is really for a 75 series truck.... OOPS. So I had my local locksmith rekey those to the new Toyota Key. When I picked them up, he asked me what the heck it was from as it is not any domestic Toyota. I was amazed he could figure that out... ends up the key is like a Isuzu type key as far as the mechanism was concerned. He had to do some special stuff and had to make the extra duplicate keys longer, but got it all done! Glad to have a local expert.

Brandt Locksmith in Kansas City if anyone needs a good place.

 

[2fpower]

Here we go....

 

[2fpower]

Lunchtime

 

[thatcabledude]

Halfway there!!

 

[cruisermatt]

I would wait on torching those frame mounts off - those might work really well with the regular GM motor mounts if they aren't too far back

 

[thatcabledude]

I would wait on torching those frame mounts off - those might work really well with the regular GM motor mounts if they aren't too far back

I was just looking at that. I was thinking they might sit up too high.

 

[2fpower]

First question, do I need to tap to be able to move the pivot to the new housing

 

[2fpower]

I would wait on torching those frame mounts off - those might work really well with the regular GM motor mounts if they aren't too far back

well that escalated quickly...

 

[cruisermatt]

so they weren't going to work well?

 

[2fpower]

We got everything put together and stab the engine in motor mounts would not have worked very well but running into some problems. First off Can’t and get the engine back far enough so that the shifter is in the same location. Probably about 4 inches forward now. Second is the headers I bought dump right into the frame...

 

[2fpower]

Drinking time

 

[2fpower]

Kind of disappointed in the advanced adapters bell housing. First I had to drill and tap for the Release bearing arm. Them in mounting to the LM4 there was five bolts that lined up of the seven that appeared to be on the engine. The top one we were able to relieve some of the material on the bell housing and I’ll make an adapter to be able to bring that in tight. The first picture here is comparing the old bell bell housing with the new below. So I had to grind out material so that it would fit

 

[SNLC]

Why can’t you move the engine back?

What trans are you running, I am not sure.

Cheers

 

[cruisermatt]

those issues from the bellhousing are because it's really intended to bolt a H42 to a SBC - which has some bellhousing bolts in different spots, and the grinding the on the opening on the transmission side is typical whenever installing a H55f to a H42 bellhousing, even with Toyota stuff.
The clutch fork pivot pin being provisions being missing is pretty bad though - I wonder if that was just an accident?

I wouldn't be worried about the bellhousing/motor bolt differences however make sure the bolts you are using are as long as possible, and ideally a good quality flanged head bolt. The OEM LS bolts are good, the various "LS engine bellhousing bolt kits" on Amazon are a good option as well, I've used all of them on many projects.
It looks like the bolts you have in there have Grade 5 markings, are you sure they're metric??

I have those same LS3 manifolds on my FJ62 swap and they are tight, and that's a wider chassis. I'm going to be using the Summit swap manifolds on another FJ62 next month, they look a lot better for frame clearance. there are several companies that make that style manifold

 

[TonyP]

Hooker makes a cast manifold that has a better flange placement, it may work better. P/N 8501HKR