Builds Unicorns are real... My dream car FJ73 build (2 Viewers)

[cruisermatt]

Amazon product ASIN B004J39A00
It's just a simple 6-bolt ring with tapped holes in it.
Mind this is a 60 tank, I don't know what 70 tanks look like. The carb 60 tank has a basket section in the middle and was clearly designed for future EFI use

 

[2fpower]

@cruisermatt gotcha... so you weld that round 6 bolt tapped section into the tank.

Question, and it might be dumb one. Assuming you have a nice flat section, and assuming you can get your hand in the tank, could you just have a tapped ring like that and put it in from the inside and basically sandwich the tank between it? Of course if you ever pulled the tank, it would drop to the bottom... maybe make an ear on it with an extra bolt that just goes through the tank and holds it in place?

I just hate welding on fuel tanks. Did it on the 75 series this summer, but I had the radiator tank shop clean it first.

 

[cruisermatt]

I just hate welding on fuel tanks. Did it on the 75 series this summer, but I had the radiator tank shop clean it first.

nothing i can do to help you with that. I just drain them good and let them sit open for a day or two. Haven't been blown up yet I guess. Are you fine with using a drill that has a brushed motor near a fuel tank?

 

[2fpower]

nothing i can do to help you with that. I just drain them good and let them sit open for a day or two. Haven't been blown up yet I guess. Are you fine with using a drill that has a brushed motor near a fuel tank?

Near an open fuel tank with vapors? EEEK...

Ever danced with the devil in the pale moonlight?

 

[robmobile73]

You need to drop your tank and look at it before you make the decision. You need to see if you have a nice flat surface to put a access plate. In tank pumps are a little quieter, but that's it.

Inline pumps can be had in diaphram and rotary pump. The rotary type would be quieter. Last time I mounted a inline pump it was screwed to the botom of the cab with self tapping sheet metal screws, It would pump up 4-7psi and stop, just keeping the Q-jet float bowl full. The only way to mount it in a louder position would be to have it in the cab with me. I had duel exhaust with flowmasters and glasspacks(flowmasters alone too loud). The only time I ever heard the pump was when I turned the key on without starting the engine I'd hear it pump a few seconds till the pressure built up...............Screwing to the body is also the noisiest way to mount it. If you wrap it in insulating self adhesive weatherstripping and duct tap and secure it by the lines on either side without it a hard mount, you won't hear it. If you are annoyed by the noise of a electric fuel pump I would guess that you had a high volume/high pressure pump like you would put in a drag car and had it hard mounted somewhere where it resonated or very close to you while you drove. I've never had a electric inline pump fail, but they are very inexpensive and easy to replace if they do.

If I was going to do a in tank pump I think I would buy something like this: Amazon product ASIN B01GC3CYSY
For a mount I'd use a piece of maybe 1.5" iron pipe threaded on the end to get it to the bottom of the tank with the pump wires and fuel line inside the pipe. Iron pipe flange screwed on the threads at the top to bolt to the tank. Pipe cap with hole for wires and 90 barb for fuel line and holes for wires. I'd probably use alot of Permatex #1 for a hard semipermanent seal. Screw it down to the tank with self tapping sheet metal screws big enough to fill the holes in the pipe flange.....Use a hole saw the and rotary rasp to get the hole the right size for the pipe to go through.

 

[2fpower]

Little Tech Data on at h55f shifter it’s tapered fit rubber inside so you just tap them apart.

 

[2fpower]

OK, first try at fitting and transmissions sitting about 3 inches forward and basically touching the front of the transmission tunnel opening. Engine has about three-quarter inch on each side from hitting the firewall.

 

[2fpower]

Let’s talk exhaust. Driver side needs to be tighter to the block. I have a friend of a friend that let me borrow some nice stainless ones but the tubes projected too far out from the engine and interfere with the steering. They actually dumped in a great angle location. So next up is probably give me a set of those once mentioned above. Summit.

 

[2fpower]

The passenger side is more of a challenge because I realized that the transfer case and vacuum actuator are going to be in the way so I need to get the exhaust on the outside of the frame rail. So how in the world do I figure out if there’s any premade GM headers that do this or am I to the point now where I just need to make a custom exhaust?

 

[2fpower]

um.... can we cut and weld these manifolds?

 

[cruisermatt]

Yes you absolutely can cut and weld any of the GM manifolds. They are steel, not iron. MIG weldable. I do it all the time. Just chopped one up this morning for a turbo kit I'm building.

The regular manifolds that come on like every GM truck from 1998-2012 (should be able to get these for free, they are everywhere) would probably work pretty well for your passenger side. They point outwards. These are usually the ones I always use to hack up since they are essentially always free.

That long-tube header doesn't look too bad on the driver's side actually, you can space the steering box out with a plate spacer or just mod the header. That being said I can clearly tell that is one of the $100/pair eBay headers and they are pretty bad with plug wire clearance and longevity. I ran a pair for a year before tossing them.

Do you have space in front of the motor to run a driver's side manifold on the passenger side and run the pipe around the front of the crank pulley? The manifolds are reversible (as are the heads, intake, etc)

 

[cruiserdan]

Little Tech Data on at h55f shifter it’s tapered fit rubber inside so you just tap them apart. View attachment 2506478View attachment 2506477View attachment 2506479View attachment 2506476

Except it's not supposed to come apart.

 

[2fpower]

Yes you absolutely can cut and weld any of the GM manifolds. They are steel, not iron. MIG weldable. I do it all the time. Just chopped one up this morning for a turbo kit I'm building.

The regular manifolds that come on like every GM truck from 1998-2012 (should be able to get these for free, they are everywhere) would probably work pretty well for your passenger side. They point outwards. These are usually the ones I always use to hack up since they are essentially always free.

That long-tube header doesn't look too bad on the driver's side actually, you can space the steering box out with a plate spacer or just mod the header. That being said I can clearly tell that is one of the $100/pair eBay headers and they are pretty bad with plug wire clearance and longevity. I ran a pair for a year before tossing them.

Do you have space in front of the motor to run a driver's side manifold on the passenger side and run the pipe around the front of the crank pulley? The manifolds are reversible (as are the heads, intake, etc)

Your help and knowledge is absolutely what is keeping me sane with this project! Thanks so much.

 

[2fpower]

Made some adapters for the transfer case mount to see if we can get the transfer case lined up and see how much different a position it needs to be in. Everything is set at an angle!!

 

[2fpower]

It’s on the Advanced Adapters site. It’s been around forever. It allows you to mate the Toyota trans to the v8 and it is also a splitter box. So it will split any gear. You turn the H55 into a 10spd.

I had an FJ60 with one behind a ramjet v8 and in front of a h42. One of the most fun trucks I have ever owned.

Cheers

I am at that point in a project where I wonder if there is an better way to do this.... I would love input from those with any thoughts... see if I can get some folks from the 40 side that have dealt with conversions as well. @hoser @torfab @woody @SNLC @orangefj45

So to set the stage, and not make you read 14 pages of junk. I am working to put a LS engine in a 70 series and retain the original h55f transmission. Currently the transmission had to move about 3.5 inches forward which pushed the shifter right up near the a/c in the cab. The engine sits about 1/2 from the firewall, so it is definately tight, but can likely make it work. There is tons of room in front of the engine....

Options I see:

1. stay on current path... adapt the shifter and use electric fan or make really long shroud from radiator to fan, new driveshafts, make custom transfer case/center armor.

2. Go and get the Ranger overdrive unit - 7.5" deep. That adds noise but should shift the transmission back to stock location, and push the engine forward. When I called advanced about this they did not recommend it due to the higher spinning of the transmission.

3. switch to automatic GM transmission. Not sure how much longer the GM tranny with adapter to the split box is; however, is probably fine for the space I have to move the engine forward. I really wanted to keep this h55f setup; however, why not go automatic??

 

[cruisermatt]

it would be so nice if someone made a 3" extended length H42 or H55 input shaft and 3" long spacer to go between the bellhousing and transmission

 

[2fpower]

hmmm.. if I recall, marks adapter is longer than the advanced adapter.

i guess I should throw in there swap to NV4500, but who knows where that would end up in length...

 

[Mr Cimarron]

hmmm.. if I recall, marks adapter is longer than the advanced adapter.

i guess I should throw in there swap to NV4500, but who knows where that would end up in length...

My NV4500 sits pretty good in the trans tunnel with plenty of firewall room for the Cummins. Almost too much room. Not the same type build but if you need any measurements let me know.

 

[cruisermatt]

NV4500, but who knows where that would end up in length...

I do. it fits great because it's 6" longer then a H55f and the shifter is farther back) but you'd need a different transmission, adapter kit, bellhousing etc

 

[2fpower]

I do. it fits great because it's 6" longer then a H55f and the shifter is farther back) but you'd need a different transmission, adapter kit, bellhousing etc

The way I look at it is that now is the time to make any change....

I have a NV4500 in my 40 with SBC and AA bellhousing, so I tooks some measurements and it is about 14" from the engine to the front of the shifter. I measured the H55f and it is maybe 1/2 shorter distance, so that option is out.