UCA's needed for 1.75" lift? If so, JBA? (13 Viewers)

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I’ve considered it, but hear me out….so, for now and just to temporairily satisfy my aesthetic tastes, I’m adding a fairly cheap 1.75” lift and 32” KO2’s. THEN, the build begins slowly and methodically. Once I’ve purchased the bumpers, sliders, drawers, rack, etc., then I will circle back around and install a proper lift tuned for my then curb weight. That’s my story, and I’m stickin‘ to it :cool:
Good plan. Post up your post-lift alignment numbers when it's installed. That's your primary deciding factor. If you can still get near the upper end of the spec, you're good. IMHO, even caster numbers that are in-spec, but near the lower end of the range, provide less than optimal driving results. Even with zero lift, the truck will drive better with caster near the upper end of the range.
 
Good plan. Post up your post-lift alignment numbers when it's installed. That's your primary deciding factor. If you can still get near the upper end of the spec, you're good. IMHO, even caster numbers that are in-spec, but near the lower end of the range, provide less than optimal driving results. Even with zero lift, the truck will drive better with caster near the upper end of the range.
I’m not all that up to speed regarding caster numbers so when you say get the numbers near the upper end of the spec, can you provide a range I should look for? In upstate NY, it’s virtually impossible to find an alignment shop that understand 4x4 talk, adjustable UCA’s, etc. Therefore, when my local Toyota dealer does the alignment, I would like to have as much info as possible to help the mechanic understand what we need. I‘ve found that ”master certified mechanic“ doesn’t mean all that much anymore.
 
I’ve considered it, but hear me out….so, for now and just to temporairily satisfy my aesthetic tastes, I’m adding a fairly cheap 1.75” lift and 32” KO2’s. THEN, the build begins slowly and methodically. Once I’ve purchased the bumpers, sliders, drawers, rack, etc., then I will circle back around and install a proper lift tuned for my then curb weight. That’s my story, and I’m stickin‘ to it :cool:
In consideration of knowing your expenses and the methodology of your build sequence, I think you have a great plan going.
Stage 1, keep it budget based in the beginning for some function and aesthetics, then as time/money permits move to Stage 2, the real build.
That's an awesome plan! Good on ya for thinking it through!
 
I’ve considered it, but hear me out….so, for now and just to temporairily satisfy my aesthetic tastes, I’m adding a fairly cheap 1.75” lift and 32” KO2’s. THEN, the build begins slowly and methodically. Once I’ve purchased the bumpers, sliders, drawers, rack, etc., then I will circle back around and install a proper lift tuned for my then curb weight. That’s my story, and I’m stickin‘ to it :cool:

Nothing wrong with that game plan at all. I usually go all in on my builds right out of the gate but with the Cruiser I am slow rolling it and attempting to enjoy the process lol. I will be doing the build for it in stages and more modestly than in the past which is counter to everything I believe in and past habits. Enjoy the process and this way you’ll better be able to see the benefits of each improvement you make along the way.
 
Agree with Tex68w. I usually tend to want to get as much done as soon as possible too.
But it usually depends upon money and time.
Earlier in my life I had more time than money and would do as much of the work as was within my skill set. But it would usually take a while to get the budget together for the next "stage".
That's why I encourage newbies to put together a build plan, and stage it out. Example: Stage 1: tires and suspension; stage 2: armor; stage 3: accessories, etc.
Now as I'm a little older, I can afford to (not always) have more things done and often at the same time. Bundle my stages! 😁
This GX was my first overlander I was able to pick everything I wanted from various vendors, have it all shipped to my off road shop (YotaMasters) and get it back several months later completed, looking and running perfect! The only things left were minor things like adding the iKamper RTT, MaxTrax, HAM mobile radio, jerry cans, and the interior MOLLE racks and shelf in the back along with some other minor odds and ends.
 
Great feedback and thank you all. It's not about the money (I am fortunate and blessed) but more so about the process and trying to take my time. My problem is that I have very limited support near me for overland/4x4 builds. Therefore, the closest facility to me that actually specializes in builds is Main Line Overland which is roughly 3 hours 15 minutes from me. So, part of me says just do most of it in one shot...I would have to get a hotel and leave the GX there for two days. Or, let my local Toyota shop install tires and mild lift initially and figure out things from there. Upon investigating local brand name dealers and independent mechanics, it painfully occurred to me that nobody close to me understands how to properly align a modified rig with UCA's, etc. So, I am bummed but am going to try and figure this out on my own. I can turn wrenches, but it's the specialty help like alignments and such where I fear my investment would be compromised. Even some one the wrenching is a little above my pay grade and now that I am in my 50's, by body just simply says no at times lol. I have asked GXOR, GXORNY, and CAMO (Central Appalachian Moutain Overland) groups on Facebook for help if anyone is close to me. I got crickets. I am willing to pay and offer unlimited adult beverages as well lol. SO, that's my dilemma and what keeps me up at night :)
 
I’m not all that up to speed regarding caster numbers so when you say get the numbers near the upper end of the spec, can you provide a range I should look for? ...
Spec is 2.6-4.1. It's not an "if it's in, then it's good, and the same across the range" type of thing. The higher the number the less twitchy and more heavy the steering will be. Mine are sitting right under 4. If it were me, I'd have the alignment shop target 3.7 or higher. YMMV.
 
Great feedback and thank you all. It's not about the money (I am fortunate and blessed) but more so about the process and trying to take my time. My problem is that I have very limited support near me for overland/4x4 builds. Therefore, the closest facility to me that actually specializes in builds is Main Line Overland which is roughly 3 hours 15 minutes from me. So, part of me says just do most of it in one shot...I would have to get a hotel and leave the GX there for two days. Or, let my local Toyota shop install tires and mild lift initially and figure out things from there. Upon investigating local brand name dealers and independent mechanics, it painfully occurred to me that nobody close to me understands how to properly align a modified rig with UCA's, etc. So, I am bummed but am going to try and figure this out on my own. I can turn wrenches, but it's the specialty help like alignments and such where I fear my investment would be compromised. Even some one the wrenching is a little above my pay grade and now that I am in my 50's, by body just simply says no at times lol. I have asked GXOR, GXORNY, and CAMO (Central Appalachian Moutain Overland) groups on Facebook for help if anyone is close to me. I got crickets. I am willing to pay and offer unlimited adult beverages as well lol. SO, that's my dilemma and what keeps me up at night :)
Welll, you could always do a little vacation out here in the wild 'ol west!
Find the best place to do your rig, road trip there/fly back, wait a few months, then just fly out again and have a great road trip back home in your new overland rig!
By the way, I too am past that 50 mark and although I have the tools and skill, there are times when I just assume have some young bucks do the wrenching.
 
At that lift, it's not "necessary". "Necessary" is a funny word, and in order to understand it, you need to know where OEM UCA's fall short, and what problems afternmarket UCA's solve, and how, and other options.

The short version, is at your proposed lift, they likely aren't necessary, even more so if you have a competent alignment shop that is willing to work with you. Lifts reduce caster, which increases "wander" in the steering mostly noticable at highway speeds. This results in constant effort to keep the truck going straight and control darting from side to side. Which effect defeats the purpose of a luxury off-road rig that is also a fantastic road-tripper with moderate mods. A competent alignment shop would be able to use the LCA adjustment cams to "push" the lower ball joint forward and gain back a little caster with the OEM UCA, at the slight expense of not getting camber in spec. That's a trade I'd personally make all day long, and twice on Sunday. Twitchy steering sucks every. single. time. you. drive. the. truck. With that small of a lift, you run the risk of having too high of a caster angle with aftermarket UCA's and their built in +2.5-3 degrees, which leads to heavy feeling steering, and "possibly" increased wear in steering components. You don't mention what size tires you're running. If you're on the upper end of what fits without rubbing, and have an OEM front bumper, if you push the lower ball joint forward using the LCA cam bolts, you might end up rubbing the front fender liner. If you're on OEM-ish tire sizes, you're good there.

You will likely also gain back a small amount of front wheel travel in the form of droop with aftermarket UCA's, but if you're not off roading a ton this isn't likely a deciding factor. If you go aftermarket, and have a shop install, you'll likely be $500 in labor + parts + alignment.

As to which afternarket UCA's are the best? They are ALL outrageously priced for what they are and what they do. I have had SPC adjustables on my 100 series and run Freedom Offroad on my GX currently. Those are the only 2 I'd choose from. If you're going to pay outrageous money, get the SPC adjustable ones because you (meaning your alignment tech) can absolutely dial in the best alignment, especially as you rethink lift and tire size choices down the road (buy once, cry once). All the rest of the high priced ones offer no advantage over the cheaper Freedom Offroad. And when you hold the OEM ones in your hand off the truck, you'll quickly realize that even the Freedom Offroad "cheapies" are so much more massive and overbuilt compared to the stamped and rolled OEM design, that you'll wonder why you should pay $400-$900 more for brands like JBA, Ironman, etc etc.

If I were you, throw on the lift. Then go to a GOOD alignment shop that works on 4x4's, not some chain place with a 19 year-old working on your rig. Tell them you want caster as high as possible, even if they have to push the LCA forward and sacrifice camber being out of spec (then religiously rotate your tires). Drive it on some long highway trips for a few thousand miles. If you feel even after this that it wanders too much for your liking, then go adjustable SPC UCAs.

My 2 cents only...

Great post!

I bought a lifted 460 (build thread here) with a basic Bilstein 5100 kit and OEM everything else. One of the things that drew me to this rig was the impeccable service records at the dealership. One thing that stuck out was an alignment every 5,000ish miles. The stock control arms are on the truck, and I am noticing the pull and rough highway bump recovery, which are telltale signs of needing an alignment. Before I get that alignment, I am considering grabbing some upper control arms. I will install these myself and am trying to figure out the best purchase today.

Apache Offroad for $550: Apache Offroad Assembled Tubular UCA Pair | 4Runner FJ Cruiser GX470 GX460 - https://exitoffroad.com/product/apache-offroad-assembled-tubular-uca-pair-4runner-fj-cruiser-gx470-gx460/
Freedom Offroad for $390: Front Upper Control Arms for 2-4" Lift #FO-T702FU - https://freedomoffroadusa.com/front-upper-control-arms-for-2-4-lift-fo-t702fu/
Freedom Offroad Uni-Ball for $530: Front Upper Control Arms for 2-4" Lift Uni-Ball #FO-T702FU-UB - https://freedomoffroadusa.com/front-upper-control-arms-for-2-4-lift-uni-ball-fo-t702fu-ub/
 
Caster less than manufacturer recommended. If you are doing a modest lift you probably won't need them.

If i ever need them I will get the SPCs
 
I realize this is an old thread but since it got bumped, I'll contribute my experience for any future searchers. 1.5" lift, slightly upsized (32) tires; no UCAs needed. Alignment is close to perfect and the truck handles great, feels like stock.
 
Great post!

I bought a lifted 460 (build thread here) with a basic Bilstein 5100 kit and OEM everything else. One of the things that drew me to this rig was the impeccable service records at the dealership. One thing that stuck out was an alignment every 5,000ish miles. The stock control arms are on the truck, and I am noticing the pull and rough highway bump recovery, which are telltale signs of needing an alignment. Before I get that alignment, I am considering grabbing some upper control arms. I will install these myself and am trying to figure out the best purchase today.

Apache Offroad for $550: Apache Offroad Assembled Tubular UCA Pair | 4Runner FJ Cruiser GX470 GX460 - https://exitoffroad.com/product/apache-offroad-assembled-tubular-uca-pair-4runner-fj-cruiser-gx470-gx460/
Freedom Offroad for $390: Front Upper Control Arms for 2-4" Lift #FO-T702FU - https://freedomoffroadusa.com/front-upper-control-arms-for-2-4-lift-fo-t702fu/
Freedom Offroad Uni-Ball for $530: Front Upper Control Arms for 2-4" Lift Uni-Ball #FO-T702FU-UB - https://freedomoffroadusa.com/front-upper-control-arms-for-2-4-lift-uni-ball-fo-t702fu-ub/
I'm pretty sure the Freedom's use non-OEM style ball joints and bushings, which makes future serviceability questionable. I am not familiar with the Apache UCAs but they do appear to use an OE-style ball joint. Not sure about the bushings.

IMO, the best budget UCAs would be JBA's. The use OE-style bushings and a Chevy 4x4 truck ball joint and are M-USA, plus they have a nice red finish and look pretty good. I'm betting the Apache UCAs are Chinese and the Freedoms probably are too due to being so cheap.

I personally have the much-maligned Ironman arms, which (other than the UBJ recall) have been quite good. I replaced the UBJs easily myself with OE-style 555 UBJs. Future serviceability should be important with any aftermarket parts on these rigs.
 

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