Good Day!
So, since I just got me a 1995 KZJ78 from the land of the JDMs, a baseline was in order.
I searched for a specific tutorial for these types of Land Cruisers but found only fragmented and not 78 specific information, I also was less than thrilled with the information I found detailing a transmission pan plug drain and refill, as we know you would only get about 4 qts out of that. Besides, I wasn't too keen on the idea of mixing the new stuff with the old with the promise of subsequent drains and refills. So, I decided to share this tutorial highlighting my experience doing a full ATF Flush at home.
Disclaimer:
This is the way I did it, and I understand it is not novel and may not be suitable for everyone. Also, you are following at your own risk.
Tools needed:
1. Rachet with 12mm, 14mm sockets (reach out for the regular shallow ones, not the deep wells)
2. A suitable 5in socket extension
3. A pair of lineman pliers
4. A 19mm wrench (optional)
5. 1/2in ID clear tubing with a suitable 1/2 in OD barb fitting (I used a 90° elbow fitting from a sprinkler system), see pics
6. A 6qt capacity minimum oil change pan
Supplies needed:
1. 4 gallons of your favorite ATF ( I went with four 1 gallon jugs of Valvoline MaxLife Full Synthetic ATF - Dextron II-III approved) currently $17.78/gal at Wall~Mart
2. Shop towels
3. Cheap beer
The ATF I used...
Instructions:
Check your cold ATF level first, see what color/smell it leaves on the towel. Then go ahead and take off the bash plates (Plastic guard plate under the transmission, and the smaller, metal plate under your radiator using the 12mm socket on both). The reason for doing so now while the vehicle is cold is because you would want to not waste time fooling with taking them off when the rig is hot. That time should be reserved for the hot fluid swap.
That is your radiator bash plate. Three 12mm bolts holds it in, one may need the 5" extension.
Now, drive the vehicle for a at least 20 mins after the initial warm-up. The transmission takes a lot longer than the engine to warm up to it's operating temperature. When you get back, check you ATF level and take note of the HOT level, assuming you have the proper level to begin with. Then, place an oil pan under the middle of the truck, undo the AT drain plug (14mm) and drain the old juice. Take note of what's coming out of your AT, the color and smell. Mine came out runny (since it's hot) and brown like dark coffee with the slightest hint of red. Yuck! No burned smell though, just that ATF smell.
Once it's done draining, the should have just shy of 4 qts of old ATF in the pan, with many liters of the old fluid still hiding in the system, well, not for long
Now, replug that drain on the AT, place a small funnel into the dipstick port and add in your first gallon of the good stuff. Funny how it's almost exactly the amount of old ATF you just drained! This lucky break will actually carry on throughout the rest of the job, serendipitous!!
Here is the fun part, now move up to the front of the truck. From below, locate the bottom of your radiator. You will easily see the radiator bottom coolent hose, a pitcock for draining the radiator, and two aluminum fittings connected to two rubber hoses going back towards the back of the vehicle. Through some semi (doubtful) educated guesses, I determined that the hose on the other side FURTHER from the pitcock was the one that pumps into the ATF portion of the radiator.
Go ahead and loosen/slide up that clamp, and hook up the tubing you rigged up (ahead of time) into the rubber ATF hose as pictured. The other end should be dunked into the 1st empty ATF jug you just used a minute ago. No mess no fuss!
With this setup secured enough, and with the markers on the jug facing you, go ahead and start the engine, nastiness will flow uninterrupted into the jug as you will see through the clear tubing.
Following good advice from @GTSSportCoupe I quickly jumped behind the wheel, foot on brakes, and cycled through the gears before I reached the 4 qts mark on the collection jug. I quickly shut off the engine.
You guessed it, gallon number 2 goes into the dipstick port, then after it's empty, it takes it's place ready for the second purge. Rinse and repeat. This is what's nice about this setup, you will only have the first batch from the transmission drain needing to be poured into a used jug at the end, the rest will already be pumped into the jugs in turns.
Picture of the old ATF between pumps.
Now, once you are down to one clean jug of ATF, you'll clearly notice a rather sudden change in the color of the discharged ATF, it will turn beautiful red at the very end of the 4th qt out. Home stretch!
You can now undo your rig, re-clamp the rubber hose to the rad. And pour in your last jug of the good stuff. Now, this is optional but I recommend it: use the 19mm open wrench to re-tighten the aluminum inlet you just molested when you unplugged the hose. This fitting can swivel in place and aim at different directions when loose. Remember, there is a fast moving belt just above it, takes no time to double check.
Let her rest for just a minute then drop in your dipstick and take a cold measurement, should be already in the ball park for cold. Math is
After a quick sanity check, go out for a good drive, warm up and check levels upon return. Also check for any leaks post warm-up.
Refit your plates. Step number 5... Enjoy your cheap beer
and admire your work!
(Tigris and her Busch
)
I reached the upload picture limited oh well, you get the idea! Now your transmission should work (and smell like) a sewing machine, and you can enjoy the smooth shifting and the peace of mind knowing that your ATF is thoroughly swapped!
This was one
job. I hope that someone finds this useful.
One last observation: as the fluid is being pumped out, the AT pump is never dry since you are replenishing with 1 gallon after each gallon pumped out. The stream will be solid and uninterrupted so long you finish your gear cycling before you exceed the 4 qt mark on the jug. I did this alone but it would certainly be easier with a person behind the wheel while you watch your fluid levels.
Cheers!
Moe and Tigris 3
So, since I just got me a 1995 KZJ78 from the land of the JDMs, a baseline was in order.
I searched for a specific tutorial for these types of Land Cruisers but found only fragmented and not 78 specific information, I also was less than thrilled with the information I found detailing a transmission pan plug drain and refill, as we know you would only get about 4 qts out of that. Besides, I wasn't too keen on the idea of mixing the new stuff with the old with the promise of subsequent drains and refills. So, I decided to share this tutorial highlighting my experience doing a full ATF Flush at home.
Disclaimer:
This is the way I did it, and I understand it is not novel and may not be suitable for everyone. Also, you are following at your own risk.
Tools needed:
1. Rachet with 12mm, 14mm sockets (reach out for the regular shallow ones, not the deep wells)
2. A suitable 5in socket extension
3. A pair of lineman pliers
4. A 19mm wrench (optional)
5. 1/2in ID clear tubing with a suitable 1/2 in OD barb fitting (I used a 90° elbow fitting from a sprinkler system), see pics
6. A 6qt capacity minimum oil change pan
Supplies needed:
1. 4 gallons of your favorite ATF ( I went with four 1 gallon jugs of Valvoline MaxLife Full Synthetic ATF - Dextron II-III approved) currently $17.78/gal at Wall~Mart
2. Shop towels
3. Cheap beer
The ATF I used...
Instructions:
Check your cold ATF level first, see what color/smell it leaves on the towel. Then go ahead and take off the bash plates (Plastic guard plate under the transmission, and the smaller, metal plate under your radiator using the 12mm socket on both). The reason for doing so now while the vehicle is cold is because you would want to not waste time fooling with taking them off when the rig is hot. That time should be reserved for the hot fluid swap.
That is your radiator bash plate. Three 12mm bolts holds it in, one may need the 5" extension.
Now, drive the vehicle for a at least 20 mins after the initial warm-up. The transmission takes a lot longer than the engine to warm up to it's operating temperature. When you get back, check you ATF level and take note of the HOT level, assuming you have the proper level to begin with. Then, place an oil pan under the middle of the truck, undo the AT drain plug (14mm) and drain the old juice. Take note of what's coming out of your AT, the color and smell. Mine came out runny (since it's hot) and brown like dark coffee with the slightest hint of red. Yuck! No burned smell though, just that ATF smell.
Once it's done draining, the should have just shy of 4 qts of old ATF in the pan, with many liters of the old fluid still hiding in the system, well, not for long
Now, replug that drain on the AT, place a small funnel into the dipstick port and add in your first gallon of the good stuff. Funny how it's almost exactly the amount of old ATF you just drained! This lucky break will actually carry on throughout the rest of the job, serendipitous!!
Here is the fun part, now move up to the front of the truck. From below, locate the bottom of your radiator. You will easily see the radiator bottom coolent hose, a pitcock for draining the radiator, and two aluminum fittings connected to two rubber hoses going back towards the back of the vehicle. Through some semi (doubtful) educated guesses, I determined that the hose on the other side FURTHER from the pitcock was the one that pumps into the ATF portion of the radiator.
Go ahead and loosen/slide up that clamp, and hook up the tubing you rigged up (ahead of time) into the rubber ATF hose as pictured. The other end should be dunked into the 1st empty ATF jug you just used a minute ago. No mess no fuss!
With this setup secured enough, and with the markers on the jug facing you, go ahead and start the engine, nastiness will flow uninterrupted into the jug as you will see through the clear tubing.
Following good advice from @GTSSportCoupe I quickly jumped behind the wheel, foot on brakes, and cycled through the gears before I reached the 4 qts mark on the collection jug. I quickly shut off the engine.
You guessed it, gallon number 2 goes into the dipstick port, then after it's empty, it takes it's place ready for the second purge. Rinse and repeat. This is what's nice about this setup, you will only have the first batch from the transmission drain needing to be poured into a used jug at the end, the rest will already be pumped into the jugs in turns.
Picture of the old ATF between pumps.
Now, once you are down to one clean jug of ATF, you'll clearly notice a rather sudden change in the color of the discharged ATF, it will turn beautiful red at the very end of the 4th qt out. Home stretch!
You can now undo your rig, re-clamp the rubber hose to the rad. And pour in your last jug of the good stuff. Now, this is optional but I recommend it: use the 19mm open wrench to re-tighten the aluminum inlet you just molested when you unplugged the hose. This fitting can swivel in place and aim at different directions when loose. Remember, there is a fast moving belt just above it, takes no time to double check.
Let her rest for just a minute then drop in your dipstick and take a cold measurement, should be already in the ball park for cold. Math is
After a quick sanity check, go out for a good drive, warm up and check levels upon return. Also check for any leaks post warm-up.
Refit your plates. Step number 5... Enjoy your cheap beer
and admire your work!
(Tigris and her Busch
)I reached the upload picture limited
oh well, you get the idea! Now your transmission should work (and smell like) a sewing machine, and you can enjoy the smooth shifting and the peace of mind knowing that your ATF is thoroughly swapped! This was one
job. I hope that someone finds this useful.One last observation: as the fluid is being pumped out, the AT pump is never dry since you are replenishing with 1 gallon after each gallon pumped out. The stream will be solid and uninterrupted so long you finish your gear cycling before you exceed the 4 qt mark on the jug. I did this alone but it would certainly be easier with a person behind the wheel while you watch your fluid levels.
Cheers!
Moe and Tigris 3
