Turns over but will not start

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Bloomer

Bloomer

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When I purchased my land cruiser back in February, it didn't come with a master key (only valet and electronic key fob with no key). As part of the purchase, the Lexus dealer (where I purchased) agreed to reimburse the cost of 1 new master key. Around $300 later, and some programming issues, I had a new master key.

Thinking it would be a good idea to have a second master key, I purchased 3 blank shells from Amazon. I've had them cut using the new master key (twice at lock smiths and one at the dealer). 2 of them will not unlock the doors or turn over the ignition, the other also will not unlock the doors but will turn over the ignition. While this one turns over the ignition, it will not start the vehicle. The vehicle starts fine with the original master key ( the one I purchased right after purchasing the land cruiser).

Is it really that difficult to get the blanks cut down correctly? Could it be a problem with the blank itself (looks like same length, width and grooves are the same).

Any ideas why one of the new blanks turn over the ignition but does not start the land cruiser (it has the programmed unit installed in the housing)? Is one of the teeth not cut properly to turn an actuating mechanism in the switch?

Thanks
 
This is a little confusing, but...

a) does your old valet key still start the car?

b) when you say "fob" do you mean a key head with the required embedded chip, but no blade?, or just a door unlock fob?

c) when you say you put the electronics in the new key, which one did you use? Lexus, or old "fob"?

d) if I had to guess, I'd say the fob you had never had the matching electronics to start the truck, but had been programmed to unlock the doors, and that the valet key was indeed the only real key you had...

But like I say, it's a little hard to follow without a program...
 
re_guderian said:
This is a little confusing, but...

a) does your old valet key still start the car?

b) when you say "fob" do you mean a key head with the required embedded chip, but no blade?, or just a door unlock fob?

c) when you say you put the electronics in the new key, which one did you use? Lexus, or old "fob"?

d) if I had to guess, I'd say the fob you had never had the matching electronics to start the truck, but had been programmed to unlock the doors, and that the valet key was indeed the only real key you had...

But like I say, it's a little hard to follow without a program...
Click to expand...

A. Yes, old valet still starts the vehicle.
B. Yes, the vehicle originally came with the key head/transponder with the embedded chip. The blade part was broken off.
C. I opened the original key head and took out the electronics and put it in the new blank I ordered from Amazon.
D. Guess that's possible. Appreciate the thought. I did try to start the land cruiser with the new blank and held the master key (the one that works) near the ignition. Still no luck. Just turns over with the new blank.
 
I understand that you have an original valet key that opens the doors and starts the truck with no problems. If this is true, it suggests that the problem is with your new keys, not with some other part of the truck.

I understand that two of the new keys will not open the doors, and will not turn in the ignition. If this is true, it suggests that either i) there was a problem with the blanks before they were cut, or ii) the keys were cut incorrectly.

I understand that you have a third new key that will not open the doors; it will turn in the ignition but it will not start the truck (i.e.- the engine cranks but it is not getting fuel). If this is true, then it suggests that the key is cut to fit the ignition, but the RF-chip inside the key is not recognized by the anti-theft system, which only delivers fuel when a key with a recognized RF-chip is near the ignition keyhole.

Based on the above information, I suggest that you take your working valet key to a competent locksmith (probably not the one that you went to last time), and ask the locksmith to clone the valet key. This should cost about $80, and then you will have a spare key identical to your valet key. If also you have a "master key" that works, you could get a good locksmith to clone the master key instead. You can get as many spare keys as you want for about $80 each.

Your other alternative is to order more questionable-quality blanks from Amazon and hope that they start working, but it sounds like you have wasted considerable time and money on that approach already.

If the key will crank the engine, but the truck will not start, then the problem is with the RF-chip inside the key. With regard to getting the metal part cut correctly for the ignition, it either turns in the ignition or it doesn't. There is no special tooth on the key that allows fuel delivery to the engine; that is the function of the radio frequency chip.

I hope this helps. :cheers:
 
Helps a bunch. Thanks! I'm curious, though. Does the RF chip have to be a certain distance from the ignition. I tried starting the Land
Cruiser, using the blank that only turns over the engine, while holding the working master right next to the ignition switch. No change. Pulled out the blank and used the working master and it started right up. Any thoughts on this? Being so close together, how would the vehicle know which key RF chip is in the ignition?
 
To rule out poor cut from bad RF, you can always swap the cut blades from key assembly to key assembly... I.e. "bad" blade on a known good new Lexus fob and see if it starts, etc. Suggest doing this in a very well documented and slow manner, so as to always be able to get back to square one...
 
Locate and Observe the Security light in the center stack of the dash board. The Security light should be blinking. Now insert your key into the ignition, Do Not Turn!, and simultaneously observe the Security light, 3 results are possible:

Security light continues to blink = The key is not recognized
Security light stays on for 2-3 seconds = Valet key
Security light goes off immediately = Master key
 
Thanks RobRed. Light continues blinking after inserting the key, so it's not recognizing the master key.

Just for curiosity sake, I tried the valet and the master I know works and both responded exactly as you stated.

Any idea what the dealer did to the original master (the one with the blade broke off) when I purchased the new master and they programmed it?

As mentioned previously, I had to order a new master and have it programmed to the vehicle after purchasing. Why would the new master work, the original valet works, and the chip on the old master not be recognized? I remember the dealer having problems doing the programming, but they did not share what happened.
 
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