Turbo Oil Pipe Cracked / Leaking on 1KZ-TE

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Joined
Jan 10, 2012
Threads
5
Messages
22
Location
Halifax, Nova Scotia, CANADA
Discovered an oil leak where the turbo oil pipe (15407-67010) attaches to the engine block with a gasket (15472-30010 or -67010).

It seems that 'invisible' hairline cracks develop where the pipe meets the flange and this seems to be the case with mine. Some say it's a design fault, some have replaced theirs only to have the same happen months later, and some say they'll last "15 years" before any problems develop. Some owners have installed flex pipes to better handle vibration like this one from Ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Oil-F...Parts_Accessories&hash=item58ad76b120&vxp=mtr

Any members have experiences with these kind of flex pipes? Any input is appreciated!
 
Take it off, cut a small section out, re-weld (or epoxy) where it has cracked, install a peice of temp rated hose(not heater hose) in the section you cut out. No more vibration cracking.
Try to put a bead or flare on the ends that you cut. Not too hard.
 
I will definitely consider that modification when it comes time to swap it over. The gents at Radd Cruisers in Duncan helped me out with the correct parts and shipped them to me in very short time.

In the meantime, I cleaned the flange and applied some high-temp cold weld epoxy putty to it which is has stopped the leak for now. This will buy me some time to clean up the mess on the engine and in the garage.

Huge thanks for the input!
 
Well, the epoxy putty lasted for exactly one day, despite good preparation, application, and curing time. I'm not sure what that stuff's good for...

After reading IH8MUD forums, as well as Hilux Surf forums for 1KZ engines in Australia and the UK, this DIY'er rigged a tool to unscrew the infamously-difficult 17mm banjo bolt on the inlet pipe. I broke the seal from below, then with the lower heat shield removed, unscrewed it by reaching around the exhaust elbow with a box-end wrench. The remaining bolts are had with wrenches, a metric socket set with a selection of extensions and elbows, and a torx-socket set, without which the complete removal of the oil pipe cannot occur.

I didn't have a hoist or even axle stands, and the actual work me a full day including testing and a few beers. ;)

Being fairly new to such work I didn't even have a torque wrench but I reckon I tightened everything with the same force the bolts came off with... It's been road-tested a few times and no leaks yet. Time for my "Built, Not Bought" bumper sticker!! :P
 
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