Trunion setup? (1 Viewer)

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97kurt

97kurt

Joined
Jul 23, 2007
Threads
10
Messages
134
Location
Reno, NV
So my diamond axle housing finally arrived and I am gonna start assembling it this weekend but I just realized I do not have a clue what I am doing when it comes to setting up the trunions and aligning the knuckle on the housing. Well I kind of have a clue but I just want to be sure I am not missing anything.

The knuckles I bought came with the lower caps still installed and each lower cap has a thick shim and a thin one. Do you think I would be safe in re-using these shims, then shim the top till I am at the ~9ft/lb range on the fish scale? Or is there a more correct way to do this?
 
Sorry, Its all toyota based. Just a fabricated housing.

IMG_1016.jpg
 
Im doing a front end rebuild right now on my 80. The bottom trunion bearing didnt have any shims, just the top.

What knuckles are you using?
 
I spy 80 front control arms. Are you SAS'ing the 4runner? Toyota makes a tool to "center" the knuckle on the ball, that is the correct way to do it. There have been a few tools floating around 'Mud for members to use, Rusty had borrowed one for a while.

If you don't find the tool, definitely use the lower shims as they are. Both of my mini trucks were set up with no shims on the bottom and the thick/thin shims were on top. I think the 80's were set up with the shims on the bottom and none on top. Of course it has been a while, so I could be wrong.

Jack
 
locrwln1 said:
I spy 80 front control arms. Are you SAS'ing the 4runner? Toyota makes a tool to "center" the knuckle on the ball, that is the correct way to do it. There have been a few tools floating around 'Mud for members to use, Rusty had borrowed one for a while.

If you don't find the tool, definitely use the lower shims as they are. Both of my mini trucks were set up with no shims on the bottom and the thick/thin shims were on top. I think the 80's were set up with the shims on the bottom and none on top. Of course it has been a while, so I could be wrong.

Jack
Click to expand...

Good eye, yes that is the plan for the 4runner. They are mini truck knuckles that I am using.
 
What Jack said except that I wouldn't skip centering the birfield with the SST, poorly centered birfield s are one of the main reasons Toyota axles go through seals so fast. IMHO if your going to the trouble of building a custom axle you shouldn't skip a simple step like this.

Check with Chicago, IIRC he borrowed Cruiser Drews tool (that just sounds wrong). Andy is usually pretty easy about loaning the SST out. If for some reason he can't there is a member on MUD that "rents" the tool for the replacement cost then re-funds the money when he get's it back. Essentially a loan with a deposit.


BTW I tried to buy the SST that Andy has but he aced me out. If I find another deal I'll buy it and keep it on hand for club use.
 
So is this a mini truck thing with the shims on the bottom?

Mine didnt have any and the FSM doesnt show any shims on the bottom, just top.
 
DiscoveredLC said:
So is this a mini truck thing with the shims on the bottom?

Mine didnt have any and the FSM doesnt show any shims on the bottom, just top.
Click to expand...

Yeah, all mini-truck stuff. no shims on the bottom must be an 80 series thing?


FSM for the mini-axle.
toy_knuckle.gif
 
60 series has em on the bottom too. It really not that hard when you have it all in front of you. Hardest part if finding the tool to borrow.

I like rustys idea of a club tool considering how often we all seem to need this item.
 
chicago said:
60 series has em on the bottom too. It really not that hard when you have it all in front of you. Hardest part if finding the tool to borrow.

I like rustys idea of a club tool considering how often we all seem to need this item.
Click to expand...
Maybe somebody will make a motion at the next meeting?
 
Reading those directions makes me glad all my stuff is Dana balljoint type. What a PITA...
 
WILLD420 said:
Reading those directions makes me glad all my stuff is Dana balljoint type. What a PITA...
Click to expand...

It's really not that bad. You really only need to do the shim adjustment once, till you rebuild again.
Maybe I'm just used to it now that I've done it about 5 times, but it's no big deal to me after the first time.
 
WILLD420 said:
Reading those directions makes me glad all my stuff is Dana balljoint type. What a PITA...
Click to expand...

chicago said:
It's really not that bad. You really only need to do the shim adjustment once, till you rebuild again.
Maybe I'm just used to it now that I've done it about 5 times, but it's no big deal to me after the first time.
Click to expand...

Messy for sure, but really simple. In fact, they are fully field servicable with common hand tools. Unlike a Dana, there is no need for a pickle fork, ball joint tool, press, etc...;)

Jack
 
chicago said:
It's really not that bad. You really only need to do the shim adjustment once, till you rebuild again.
Maybe I'm just used to it now that I've done it about 5 times, but it's no big deal to me after the first time.
Click to expand...
You really only need to do it once period as long as you keep track of the shims when you do a re-build. I think everyone should do it on the first re-build since you neve know what kind of shade tree mechanic or Goober has worked on a truck in the past.

I agree it's one of those thing that sounds hard on paper but when you actually have it in front of you it's "Oh yeah I see how this works."
 
Ok, I broke down and ordered the tool. Let it be known that if someone local needs to borrow it they can bug me. :)
 
Nice!!! How much was it???
 
That means it should be paid for in a couple years, after charging $20 a shot to rent it out.
 
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