Truck cranks but won't start after drivng for a few hours

[Higgin]

So I was out running some errands today, probably drove the truck 50 miles or so. Shut it off and started it many times. It fired right up, just like always. Then I decided to get some gas before i head home. I pump the gas, pop the hood and check the oil, just like every other time I get gas, jump back in and crank, crank, crank......no start. I've had the truck for 4 months and it's started right up and ran like a champ every single time. Every time I started it today, it fired right up. No sputtering or hesitation while driving or accelerating. I do a quick check of all the fuses, they look good. A guy pumping gas at the next pump comes over and gets under to listen for the fuel pump when i turn the key on. He says he dosen't hear anything,like its not comming on, but I'm not sure how loud the pump is...I can't say I ever remember hearing it prime up as I have on other cars. So the guy helps me push the truck over out of the way and I call AAA and get a tow to my friends house just before it starts to rain. So I've been reading up on it....I guess first thing I'm going to do is check and make sure its getting a spark, then Fuel pump relay. After that, I guess I'll see about checking the fuel pump and associated wiring. Any other suggestions? Oh, and a couple of other random things I noticed that may or may not have anything to do with the starting issues.......After the truck would not start, I could not get the tranny to shift out of park, even with the key to "ON" and foot on the brake. Never tried to do it without it running before, and this is the first automatic I've ever owned, but I'm pretty sure that in other cars, if you have the key to ON and put foot on brake, you can shift it even without engine running. I had to get the flathead out of my tool kit and use the little park release thing in front of the shifter handle to get it to neutral. Second random thing.....When I went to fill up the tank, as I removed the gas cap, I didn't get a PSHHHHHH sound of it either sucking in air or letting air out. I only really noticed it because every single time I've filled it up since I've had it, I always get the PSHHHH sound as I unscrew the gas cap. So that's what I've got. Please post any suggestions. I don't have a FSM yet doh: I know, now I'm kicking myself), so instructions or links to write ups are a bonus. I'll try to figure it out when I'm off on sunday. Thanks in advance!

 

[7schulz]

John, thats a bummer did you knock loose any of the plug wires while under the hood. I know that's pretty lame help, but wanted to give you a bump.

 

[Higgin]

Ok, so small update from sunday.....First thing is, Key on, engine off, there is no CEL light. I know it works as its been on since I bought the truck. But not now. So next, I Pulled a plug to check for spark.....no spark. Also, does not seem to be getting fuel either, as the plug was bone dry and did not smell of gas, even though I had tried cranking it for a little bit right before I pulled it. Didn't have a chence to check the fuel return to definatly say there was no fuel as it started to rain.

So, according to https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-...es-faq-item-recommend-keeping-copy-truck.html it sounds like it could possibly be the AM2 fusible link, or the EFI main relay in the underhood fuse box, or the Circuit opening relay behind the drivers kick panel.

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"AM2" is probably the most engine centric, it provides power to the ignition switch, the injectors, the igniter, the ignition coil, the distributor, and the alternator control system, if you get the yellow light on the volt meter with “key on engine off” this fusible link is good

Critical Relays
EFI main relay, under hood fuse box & Circuit opening relay, turns fuel pump on and off, located behind the drivers left kick panel, Both of these relays are the same part number, 90987-02004, you should have one in the glove box.
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As a side note, I had the drivers kick panel off a few weeks ago and was messing with the wires to find the source of my sunroof leak. One of the large connectors in there had been smashing the sunroof drain against the outside fender and basically pinching it shut.....so i rearranged those connectors, but didn't unhook anything. Maybe i screwed up the Circuit opening relay thats supposed to be in there. So I'll check these things first, but need some help. (BTW - it did fix my sunrook leak.....YAY!!)

I have a decent voltmeter, but honestly, its been since highschool since I've used one and I've slept since then . Want to make sure I'm testing this stuff right. Can someone let me know what settings I need to put it on (ohms, dcv??) so that I can check the fusible links, and then what settings to put it on and what to test to check the Efi main relay and circuit opening relay. I assume you have to pull them out and check via the connectors on them.....If so, it would be a great help! Thanks in advance!

 

[Sparkie247]

To test the fuses and or fusible links you need to have it in the "ohms" or continuity setting. You want a low range if it's not auto-ranging. To check for power, you want it in the DC Volts setting. Obviously you want to have it set to a range that includes 12volts if it's not auto-ranging. You are welcome to call me on my cell. I'll walk you through it. My number is 317-442-7597

 

[Higgin]

Awesome! Thanks Sparkie! That was what I was thinking on the voltmeter, but just wanted a second opinion. I'm heading over to my friends house where its parked in a few minutes to start doing some tests. Hopefully I can find what is going on. Been itching to get back ou tto the badlands soon, and of course, right when I have the time, something breaks, lol.