I think you are right about using low range. Honestly the only reason I haven't been using it that way is that the gravel drive ends up at an expanse of concrete. I've never been able to simply engage low range, drive for 50-100 feet and then stop and have it just immediately disengage (in drive, park or neutral). When I disengage I always seem to have to drive at least 50 feet more before I see the indicators go out. The expanse of concrete at the top is only about 30 feet before I can get to grass. I think if I'm still in low range I'm probably ok driving (straight) across that small distance, before I have to monkey with it to get it to disengage in the grass. The new method will be 1) low range when entering the gravel drive, 2) keep up momentum till the top and on concrete. 3) stop and unhitch trailer (while still driving absolutely straight), 4) continue straight off the concrete pad and get it to disengage on grass in the back of the property. Does driving 30 feet straight across concrete in low range seem risky? There is a huge field for overflow parking at a flea market I go to every week. Perhaps I'll start briefly exercising low-range there every week in an effort to get it to more smoothly disengage. Either that of find a maintenance procedure for the locking mechanisms (which honestly I've never performed)
