Transmission Solenoid help

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Joined
Apr 26, 2015
Threads
2
Messages
8
Location
Kingwood TX (Houston)
Thought I was hitting the jackpot with a 1994 FZJ80 with only 138K. Unfortunately my son, unfamiliar with driving anything older than a few years, drove down the freeway at 75 MPH with the windows down, three friends in the car and music blaring I am sure, not realizing it was in 2nd. The shift indicator on the floor read drive. He called me while driving it and asked if it should be running at such high RPMs 5500 at 75 miles an hour. Now...I have a new rebuild engine. The problem is the day we picked it up, my son noticed it didn't seem to have any torque from a stop. After driving it myself, I noticed it seemed to be starting off in 2nd or 3rd. After reading through the forums here, I have decided that it is likely the solenoids in the transmission. My question is, is there a specific solenoid that seems to go most often causing this problem. I know that two of the solenoids are the same part number. I read about how to test them but it was not clear to me exactly. I also read that at times they can test ok but still not function properly. I have attached the Haines page showing the solenoid positions. Any suggestions would be appreciated. After the new engine which I thought was a wonderful deal at under 4k installed...oh wait after all the other new parts it ran a bit more 6k, I am going to have to fix it myself. I will also attach a pic of my clean and bright new engine that runs like a top. By the way I am a new member. I have been following a long time but when I purchased my second land cruiser I joined. My first was my daughter fj60. Still running...

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First thing's first - did you check your transmission fluid level? Engine running, in park, on a level surface.
 
Purty engine.
I had same symptoms. I replaced number 1 solenoid and number 2 solenoid last weekend. Runs awesome now. I also did full fluid flush per the faq here (let tranny pump old fluid into bucket while pouring new fluid in via dipstick tube).
PM me for part number from national transmission parts house, same manufacturer as the ones that come in the pretty red boxes, half the cost.
P.S. Yes, definitely check the fluid level first, correctly.
 
Yes I did check the fluid. It is full and clean as a whistle. I had the transmission checked prior to replacing the engine...as I thought the tranny would have been damaged for sure...Mechanic said it looked good. The place I had replace the engine put a good 30 miles of test driving on the new engine to insure proper function also. I must just be have bad timing.
 
Okay, next question - is your throttle valve cable from the tranny hooked up and adjusted to the correct tension?

Have you tried to pull any codes for the transmission?

Also, here's a test from the factory service manual for a '96 - A343F tranny. Should be able to do the same test with the A442 trans and see what results that yields:

9. MANUAL SHIFTING TEST
The purpose of this manual shifting test is to determine whether
a problem is caused by either mechanical or electrical factors.
Disconnecting the solenoid wire disables electrically−controlled
automatic gear shifting. In this case, operating the shift
lever is the only way to shift the transmission gear. If the gear
is not changed by shift lever operation, it is assumed that there
is a mechanical problem.
(a) Turn the ignition switch OFF.
(b) Disconnect the solenoid wire connector.
(c) Warm up the engine.
(d) Drive the vehicle.
(e) Check the transmission operation when the shift lever is
moved into L, 2 and D positions.
Standard:
Shift Lever Operation
L to 2 Shift up
2 to D Shift up
D to 2 Shift down
2 to L Shift down
(f) Turn the ignition switch OFF.
(g) Connect the solenoid wire connector.
(h) Clear DTCs.
HINT:
When the solenoid wire is disconnected, the transmission gear
will be set as listed below:
Shift Lever Gear
P Parking
R Reverse
N Neutral
D O/D (4th)
2 3rd
L 1st

Again, the '96 FSM says the following:

5. ROAD TEST
NOTICE:
Perform the test at normal operating ATF temperature 50 − 80°C (122 − 176°F).
(a) D position test in NORM and PWR pattern positions.
Shift into the D position and hold the accelerator pedal constant at the full throttle valve opening position
and check the following:

HINT:
There is no O/D up−shift or lock−up when the coolant temperature is below 55°C (131°F).
Evaluation:
If there is no 1 → 2 up−shift:
Shift solenoid valve No. 2 is stuck.
1−2 shift valve is stuck.
If there is no 2 → 3 up−shift:
Shift solenoid valve No. 1 is stuck.
2−3 shift valve is stuck.
If there is no 3 → O/D up−shift:
3−4 shift valve is stuck.
If the shift point is defective:
Throttle valve, 1−2 shift valve, 2−3 shift valve, 3−4 shift valve etc., are defective.

What results do you get?
 
It is the round 9 pin connector just under the starter up by the firewall. It is difficult to see. There are two connectors there. One is square and the other the round one. Only 8 pins are used in the connector.
 
I don't know about that price these days, but some people buy them from Rock Auto. I bought a set from Cobra Transmission recently. It was closer to $200 though. The transmission was used on multiple vehicles including Isuzus.


A440F, A442F Automatic Transmission Solenoid Kit
IPNJ-49420K-AA​
 
+ 1 on the cobra tranny seems in the last few years we have bought enough of these they put a kit together. I've installed these in over a dozen trannys without issue .
 
I don't know about that price these days, but some people buy them from Rock Auto. I bought a set from Cobra Transmission recently. It was closer to $200 though. The transmission was used on multiple vehicles including Isuzus.


A440F, A442F Automatic Transmission Solenoid Kit
IPNJ-49420K-AA​
Awesome, appreciate the info
 

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