Transfer case rebuild (1 Viewer)

[M5driver]

Gang - I'm looking for a shop in the area who can do a transfer case rebuild (or replacement) for me, preferably in the Wheaton/Silver Spring area. I can supply parts if needed (bearings, gaskets, seals, etc.) but do not have time or place to do the work myself right now I do need to add more oil before I move the truck, since it is low... I am waiting for a slightly warmer day; I have to work on the Mule outside in a driveway or on the street.

I would need to get this done within the next 2 months or so, since it looks like my next posting will be pretty remote, and shippers will need 4-6 months to get the Mule to post (Bangui, CAR). Unless they retire me before then - that could still happen In any event, I need to refurb the transfer box.

I will also be looking for stainless steel exhaust before I box up the Mule for shipment.

Any help/recommendations greatly appreciated.

TKS.
Dan

 

[H2o]

I would just get a used one and keep the original as a spare. There are plenty out there...

 

[greytandy]

I agree with Sebastien, but what problems are you having that require you to rebuild it?

 

[M5driver]

I agree with Sebastien, but what problems are you having that require you to rebuild it?

Ahh, symptoms. The last few times I have driven it (short trips) it has smelled hot, but I couldn't decide where the smell was coming from. When I had to use 4WD to get it out of the snowbank that is my street the other day, the smell was quite strong, and clearly from under the center of the truck. Plus it has gotten very difficult to get into/out of 4WD. A quick check revealed a hot box, and once I had it parked on the patch of ice that was formerly a driveway, I checked the oil level. Hardly anything in the Tcase; no visible leaks or drips, so my guess is that the seal between the transmission and the Tcase has leaked all the oil into the xmsn. I didn't check THAT box, since I don't want a huge oil spot on my rented driveway I'll wait for warmer/drier weather.

I have the "xmsn to tcase overflow recirculation" hose coming, so as soon as it is here, and the driveway more or less dry, I will add some oil to the tcase and install the fix. That may be all it needs to operate for a very long time. (It also brings up the question of why Toyota didn't design these boxes to share oil in the first place, but that's another topic.)

My real issue is that if, in fact, my next posting is Bangui - and I'll find that out later today - that is not a place you want to take a vehicle that has known issues. Thus the query about a rebuild. In the meantime, I am on the trail of a good used 4-spd + transfer, which I could either install here, or ship as a spare. Bangui is a place where you want to have your own spares on hand, since getting large parts can take 6 months or more, with no guarantee of quality or usability on anything used or rebuilt (eg. the "Dubai engines").

I'll post here once I know the skinny on the assignment, and again when I have the hose fix in place.

 

[H2o]

I think it is good to have a spare then. because even if you rebuild, if the rebuild is not done right, when you get there, you are out of luck.

sounds like the hose might do the trick. where did you order from?

 

[M5driver]

I think it is good to have a spare then. because even if you rebuild, if the rebuild is not done right, when you get there, you are out of luck.

Yep. Not the place to tempt fate. Since the Mule will be our only ride there (and takes 5-6 months to arrive) I can't chance failure of something that major. I'm sure there is lots of African ingenuity at work there, since most of the vehicles on the road are 20-40 years old, but...

sounds like the hose might do the trick. where did you order from?

SOR. I was browsing their catalog while wondering what would be needed for a quick fix and saw the hose. Hopefully, that will be all I need to get mobile again.

 

[TRFCSUX]

hose fix

just my .02 , put hose on first, let fluid drain back into case and check level bfore adding any more. If it has gone thru and you fill it up first it will have no where to go and cause leak.

 

[M5driver]

just my .02 , put hose on first, let fluid drain back into case and check level bfore adding any more. If it has gone thru and you fill it up first it will have no where to go and cause leak.

Good point. Thanks! I'll drain and refill whole lot after I determine that this is the problem. If it's something else...

 

[Blue77FJ40]

M5driver. If you have to have the transfercase rebuilt I would send you to Iron Pig Offroad (IPOR) in Fredericksburg. They also do a mean stainless steel exhaust setup. Just let them know your timeframe requirements.

I plan to have them install a stainless exhaust for mine at some point.

Another good option is Jim Chenoweth, TLC Performance Lancaster, Ohio. He's also a carb guru.

Sebastien, Manafree sells the overflow kit. I keep one on mine as insurance.

 

[M5driver]

M5driver. If you have to have the transfercase rebuilt I would send you to Iron Pig Offroad (IPOR) in Fredericksburg. They also do a mean stainless steel exhaust setup. Just let them know your timeframe requirements.

I plan to have them install a stainless exhaust for mine at some point.

Another good option is Jim Chenoweth, TLC Performance Lancaster, Ohio. He's also a carb guru.

Sebastien, Manafree sells the overflow kit. I keep one on mine as insurance.

Many thanks for the info. I hope to get the bypass hose installed this weekend and see if that fixes the problem. If it does, I will probably still want to have the Tcase rebuilt, since it is looking like the assignment to Bangui is a go. The Mule will be our only personal transport there, so we can't have something that might break down on us. I am already stockpiling a few wear-out and replacement items for shipping with the truck.

If the Mule is drivable after installing the bypass, I might just take it down to IPOR and leave it for some serious prep work - Tcase, SS exhaust, SS fuel hard lines, if they do that. I'm planning on getting the SS brake and clutch hard lines as well, to install myself before the Mule ships (already have the SS flex lines). Then a complete once over, before it goes in the box.

I have a carb I need to box up and ship to Jim C for rebuild as well. I should try to get that out of here this month, since I will have to pack out sometime late this summer, and would like to have that to ship with the other spares.

 

[M5driver]

Got the bypass installed today. Strangely, the Tcase was not overfull or underfull, nor was the gearbox. Both had the correct amount of oil, and the oil is clean. I figured the bypass is good insurance against a leak of the internal seal, but this has me wondering what's going on???

There were no leaks visible, everything seems good. I ran it for awhile today, then checked the box -- it was no hotter than when I first got concerned and checked it. I think the hot smell is coming from new paint still being cooked off in a few spots, or from the rhinoliner getting a little hot from the exhaust, altho I did not find any spots that seemed to be a problem, and the hot smell was not noticable today, even to my wife's more sensitive nose.

It still is difficult at times to shift into/out of 4H. I pulled the boot off the piece the lever engages to make sure it was clean - it was, and I put a bit of anti-seize grease on it, so it is a bit better now. It makes me believe there is something not right inside the Tcase, tho, so I'm thinking it may still need to be rebuilt. Any thoughts? Maybe it just needs to be used more than I have this year - especially this winter, since I am not fond of road salt.

TKS in advance.
Dan

 

[greytandy]

If you're good at dropping the t-case/tranny assembly, you can take the cover off the t-case and physically see what's the issue. That's sort of a last resort since it's a pain to drop and a REAL pain to get back in. At that point you may want to rebuild it anyway or swap in a used one.

 

[M5driver]

If you're good at dropping the t-case/tranny assembly, you can take the cover off the t-case and physically see what's the issue. That's sort of a last resort since it's a pain to drop and a REAL pain to get back in. At that point you may want to rebuild it anyway or swap in a used one.

Well, even if I WAS good at dropping the boxes, I don't have all the needed tools with me or the place to work on it here. FWIW, I much prefer working on the trans/xfer and engine for that matter, without the tub or other impediments

Since the t-case does not shift from 2H to 4H smoothly, I can only guess right now that something is not right inside, and will have to get the Mule to a shop that can do that work for me. I will need it regardless, since reliability is the most important issue if/when we ship out to CAR.

 

[76FJ40]

The slide collar that engages the front shaft is located within the nose cone. You can easily remove the nosecone with the xfr in place. You can also remove the small housing on the right side of the nose cone. This housing contains the shift rod and fork which is likely where your problem exists.

 

[M5driver]

The slide collar that engages the front shaft is located within the nose cone. You can easily remove the nosecone with the xfr in place. You can also remove the small housing on the right side of the nose cone. This housing contains the shift rod and fork which is likely where your problem exists.

Thanks for the info. I just made time to pull out the SOR catalog to look at the exploded drawing. It looks like there is a small spring in there that engages some sort of detent with a small ball. I wonder if that spring might be broken? This is certainly worth looking into myself, if I can find the time (and weather) to work on it. If not, I'll ask IPOR to look at that first when I take the truck to them for a new exhaust.

I really hate it when work keeps getting in the way of my hobbies!


Dan

 

[HeadCase]

In the meantime, I am on the trail of a good used 4-spd + transfer, which I could either install here, or ship as a spare. Bangui is a place where you want to have your own spares on hand, since getting large parts can take 6 months or more, with no guarantee of quality or usability on anything used or rebuilt (eg. the "Dubai engines").

Not to hi-jack the thread, but if you're looking for a 4 speed and t-case, I have one on my garage floor from that came out of my '75. Was working fine when pulled, has been sitting for a few years now; was pulled due to a total engine, trans, and t-case swap.

 

[M5driver]

Not to hi-jack the thread, but if you're looking for a 4 speed and t-case, I have one on my garage floor from that came out of my '75. Was working fine when pulled, has been sitting for a few years now; was pulled due to a total engine, trans, and t-case swap.

Let's see... "4-speed, t-case"... Not a hi-jack

The small parts arrived today, so I will find out tomorrow if replacing them will resolve the hard shifting problem. If yes, I probably don't need a rebuild or replacement yet. However, I might still be interested in having spares, based on where we are heading next (then they can collect dust in Africa for 2-3 years). PM me with your price and location. If I still have $$ left after all the other preparation for this next tour, we can talk turkey.

Thanks!
Dan

 

[StaleAle]

Dan -

We're meeting for breakfast at Tastee Diner in Silver Spring at 9am on Sat 3/27 (see CLCC Breakfast Meeting thread). Perhaps you care to join us?

Jon

 

[M5driver]

Dan -

We're meeting for breakfast at Tastee Diner in Silver Spring at 9am on Sat 3/27 (see CLCC Breakfast Meeting thread). Perhaps you care to join us?

Jon

I've had this on my calendar from the moment I saw the announcement. Hope to see you all next Saturday.