Anyone know where to buy a new tranny for a 89 fj62, auto of course? Looking on replacing the dang thing and getting it over with.
tranny for fj62
- Thread starter dirtysouth
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cruiserparts.net
Linky no worky
Seems to be fixed now...
sethos1 said:
Seems to be fixed now...
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Unless you are trying to go as cheap as possible, only buy one direct from Rodney at Extreme Transmissions in Australia. If you buy a rebuilt one anywhere else expect to have to replace it within 10k miles or less (this is from personal experience and that of several others).
It will cost about $3k but it will be done right and actually improved upon versus the stock A440F. I would have gotten one but they were not known to the US cruiser community at the time so I converted to a H55F five speed manual.
You can search the 3FE list archives at birfield.com for 'Rodney' and get a wealth of information on the subject. Of course you are welcome to join the 3FE yahoo list too.
Good Luck,
Dunbar
It will cost about $3k but it will be done right and actually improved upon versus the stock A440F. I would have gotten one but they were not known to the US cruiser community at the time so I converted to a H55F five speed manual.
You can search the 3FE list archives at birfield.com for 'Rodney' and get a wealth of information on the subject. Of course you are welcome to join the 3FE yahoo list too.
Good Luck,
Dunbar
sethos1 said:
I also have heard this is the only way to go if you plan on keeping the cruiser. If you really don't have the money then buy a good used one with low miles but that might be hard to find.
Don't waste your time and money on getting it rebuilt. Not worth the gamble.
jklubens said:
Sweet.. If you got the time and are up for it, I would give that a try first. Just know there are some mods Rodney does to make it more bullet proof.
What is the total cost of parts?
Did you see the entire thread?
jklubens said:
No.....If I had a 62 I might of read the entire thread.I didn't make it to page 5 before. Thats one good writeup and deal. Nice pictures too.. Man thats a lot of parts in there.
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Kevin,
I see. I'm not up on 60/62 differences. I guess that 60's come with only manuals.
Moreover, if I had the parts I would have put an H55F in the 80.
dirtysouth,
Seriously give Rodney a call/email in OZ. For about the some price it would take to rebuild the tranny in GA you could buy a bulletproof tranny from Rodney shipped.
I see. I'm not up on 60/62 differences. I guess that 60's come with only manuals.
Moreover, if I had the parts I would have put an H55F in the 80.
dirtysouth,
Seriously give Rodney a call/email in OZ. For about the some price it would take to rebuild the tranny in GA you could buy a bulletproof tranny from Rodney shipped.
- Thread starter
- #13
jklubens said:
I was thinking this same thing. I am through with dealing with guys who won't stand behind their work or do shady business. I won't call anyone out but you can look at my location and put 2 and 2 together if you think about it. I've taken a tranny out of a jeep when I had one and put it back in after the shop rebuilt it, should it be the same if I ordered one from Rodney? My father in law has a nice garage with a lift so getting under the thing is no problem, it's a matter if its simply unbolting and bolting it back up.
Dunbar - how involved was this swap? What parts needed to be changed?
Dunbar said:
dirtysouth said:
Dirty,
Dropping the tranny is pretty easy as long as you have the Factory Service manual. It's not that difficult, about 25 bolts, drive shifts, wiring and it's down.
I think you're, what about 40 miles away from Atlanta? Get the cost from some Atlanta shops to rebuilt the tranny then compare it to Rodney's price shipped. You'll be surprised.
Good luck.
One thing to think about, and I am not trying to discourage the purchase of the Extreme tranny because I think it is the only way to go when replacing the A440F. But in the off chance you have a problem with the Extreme tranny (which itself is just a rebuilt tranny with some great mods) you will need to remove it yourself, then send it down under (most likely on your dime) to have it fixed (unless I am mistaken about this, since Slee doesn't sell them anymore). That will end up costing you much more money, headache, and down time.
The removal and install is pretty easy, but I have done it 10 times now. Any procedure you use to get the tranny out, and the parts you took off should be the procedure and the parts you need to install the Extreme tranny. I always pull tranny motor and t-case out together, I am sure there are others who do it without removing the motor. And since the t-case is comming off you should rebuild it for the $250 it costs. And inspect your output gear, and replace it if the splines are overly warn since this can be the cause of vibration. And while you are there think about the tourqe converter, since to replace it if it fails later you will need to pull the tranny again. And if the motor is out too, replace the rear main.
I have thought long and hard about replacing my 300,000 mile A440F and the rebuilds done here in the states leave much to be desired. Just something to think about.
The removal and install is pretty easy, but I have done it 10 times now. Any procedure you use to get the tranny out, and the parts you took off should be the procedure and the parts you need to install the Extreme tranny. I always pull tranny motor and t-case out together, I am sure there are others who do it without removing the motor. And since the t-case is comming off you should rebuild it for the $250 it costs. And inspect your output gear, and replace it if the splines are overly warn since this can be the cause of vibration. And while you are there think about the tourqe converter, since to replace it if it fails later you will need to pull the tranny again. And if the motor is out too, replace the rear main.
I have thought long and hard about replacing my 300,000 mile A440F and the rebuilds done here in the states leave much to be desired. Just something to think about.
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A440F to H55F conversion
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=29988&highlight=Dunbar+H55F
I am now sporting 33" tires and the gearing with the stock 4.11:1 is perfect.
Here is my post from that thread.
My FJ62 is sporting a H55F. I highly recommend the swap. I wasted $750 plus $250 shipping and lots of sweat swapping in a used 440F that died less than 4k miles later. The conversion cost me about $3200 in parts and can be done in a weekend if you have everything ready and a welder to help fab a crossmember. Here is some text that I someday will submit for a trails article along with the pics. The donor parts need to come from a 86 or 87 FJ60 and possibly from a 85 model depending on build date.
Quote:
I put a new H55F into my 1988 FJ62 and love it.
I bought a new Toyota unit and new OEM clutch, shifter, knob, slave and master cylinders, pilot bearing, throw out bearing, clutch fork dust boot, and 5th gear oilier funnel.
I purchased used late model FJ60 parts including drive shafts, bell housing, clutch cover, pedal assembly, hydraulic line, transmission tunnel plate, shifter boot, clutch fork, throw out bearing carrier and flywheel.
You have to fabricate a cross member because the H55F is shorter than the A440F. The late FJ60 cross member would not line up on the frame rails. I used an early FJ60 cross member and welded ½” plate steel to the frame with holes drilled in it for bolting the short cross member.
To get the pedal assembly into position you have to remove the instrument cluster and unbolt and lower the steering column and unbolt and suspend the brake master cylinder. I used a Greenlee punch to make the hole for the master cylinder. There is no guesswork for doing this because the hole positions are stamped onto the firewall for the master cylinder and the 2 bolt holes.
You will also need longer bolts to hold the Tcase to the H55F. You can use the FJ62 Tcase shifter and boot but the linkage will need to be shortened. You will also have to fabricate a plate to cover the hole where the Automatic shifter was attached which was not hard at all, use the rubber gasket from beneath the auto shifter as a template and then as a gasket for the new plate.
Do not use the 2 spacers from behind the old flywheel. You will have to remove the top cover from the H55F in order to stab the whole assembly into the engine. I did not anticipate this and did not have a new gasket on hand but the old one stayed intact. The FSM shows the stabbing procedure with the bell housing already mounted to the engine but this is impossible because it the bolts that mount it are behind the not accessible that way.
No one could tell me what the 5th gear oilier funnel actually does or where it goes but I finally figured that out just before I was going to give up on it. It actually mounts on the front half of the Tcase between the Tcase and the transfer adapter (that houses the 5th gear). There is not a hole so I guess that it gets oil splashed into the top of it which is redirected at the 5th gear shaft.
The final drive is shorter than it was with the A440F overdrive and I wish that I had bought 33’s instead of the BFG AT 31’s I am running as I have the stock 411diffs. 1st gear is a granny but I start out in it often. I shift into 4th gear by 40mph and 5th by 45 unless I am only going a couple of blocks. I have not had a chance to wheel with it yet but there is plenty of low gear. This truck should have been imported with the H55F! Before this conversion I put a rebuilt A440F that I bought from a vortec lister in the truck and it lasted less than 4k miles. Don’t pay $750 plus shipping for a used A440F install a H55F.
Endquote:
If you decide to give it a go I will help out with any info or pics.
Good luck and mash on the clutch.
Dunbar
Disclaimer: My truck is in no way better than Overhanger's Bart. Bart rocks.
I did a quick search and came up with my post in athother related thread.ATLcrusher said:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=29988&highlight=Dunbar+H55F
I am now sporting 33" tires and the gearing with the stock 4.11:1 is perfect.
Here is my post from that thread.
My FJ62 is sporting a H55F. I highly recommend the swap. I wasted $750 plus $250 shipping and lots of sweat swapping in a used 440F that died less than 4k miles later. The conversion cost me about $3200 in parts and can be done in a weekend if you have everything ready and a welder to help fab a crossmember. Here is some text that I someday will submit for a trails article along with the pics. The donor parts need to come from a 86 or 87 FJ60 and possibly from a 85 model depending on build date.
Quote:
I put a new H55F into my 1988 FJ62 and love it.
I bought a new Toyota unit and new OEM clutch, shifter, knob, slave and master cylinders, pilot bearing, throw out bearing, clutch fork dust boot, and 5th gear oilier funnel.
I purchased used late model FJ60 parts including drive shafts, bell housing, clutch cover, pedal assembly, hydraulic line, transmission tunnel plate, shifter boot, clutch fork, throw out bearing carrier and flywheel.
You have to fabricate a cross member because the H55F is shorter than the A440F. The late FJ60 cross member would not line up on the frame rails. I used an early FJ60 cross member and welded ½” plate steel to the frame with holes drilled in it for bolting the short cross member.
To get the pedal assembly into position you have to remove the instrument cluster and unbolt and lower the steering column and unbolt and suspend the brake master cylinder. I used a Greenlee punch to make the hole for the master cylinder. There is no guesswork for doing this because the hole positions are stamped onto the firewall for the master cylinder and the 2 bolt holes.
You will also need longer bolts to hold the Tcase to the H55F. You can use the FJ62 Tcase shifter and boot but the linkage will need to be shortened. You will also have to fabricate a plate to cover the hole where the Automatic shifter was attached which was not hard at all, use the rubber gasket from beneath the auto shifter as a template and then as a gasket for the new plate.
Do not use the 2 spacers from behind the old flywheel. You will have to remove the top cover from the H55F in order to stab the whole assembly into the engine. I did not anticipate this and did not have a new gasket on hand but the old one stayed intact. The FSM shows the stabbing procedure with the bell housing already mounted to the engine but this is impossible because it the bolts that mount it are behind the not accessible that way.
No one could tell me what the 5th gear oilier funnel actually does or where it goes but I finally figured that out just before I was going to give up on it. It actually mounts on the front half of the Tcase between the Tcase and the transfer adapter (that houses the 5th gear). There is not a hole so I guess that it gets oil splashed into the top of it which is redirected at the 5th gear shaft.
The final drive is shorter than it was with the A440F overdrive and I wish that I had bought 33’s instead of the BFG AT 31’s I am running as I have the stock 411diffs. 1st gear is a granny but I start out in it often. I shift into 4th gear by 40mph and 5th by 45 unless I am only going a couple of blocks. I have not had a chance to wheel with it yet but there is plenty of low gear. This truck should have been imported with the H55F! Before this conversion I put a rebuilt A440F that I bought from a vortec lister in the truck and it lasted less than 4k miles. Don’t pay $750 plus shipping for a used A440F install a H55F.
Endquote:
If you decide to give it a go I will help out with any info or pics.
Good luck and mash on the clutch.
Dunbar
Disclaimer: My truck is in no way better than Overhanger's Bart. Bart rocks.
Too funny!
