To Reboot or To Replace?

[B3A5T]

My passenger side CV developed a slit (inner boot) after doing a mild lift. The good news is that I caught it and stopped driving the 100 therefore there is no issues with clicking noises etc. The bad news is that a new OEM is $500+ for the CV and add to it installation (about $300) which is not an option I want to consider.
The mechanics suggested using an aftermarket part. Total: $400 installed including a 1 yr warranty. But after reading thread regarding NAPA and the like CVs developing vibration at speeds north of 55mph I am concerned. The solution to fixing the vibration was to replace with OEM (Double $$$). A few had success with the NAPA parts tho. But not sure how much those 100s were lifted. Mine is 2inches and I used a BIOR Diff Drop which is supposed to help with the tearing......

My options:
Since my CV is in good shape Im thinking keep the OEM and use a Toyota reboot kit (about $45) to fix the issue. Im thinking around $350-$400.

OR

Go with the NAPA for $400 (new part) but keep my OEM. If the Napa fails/vibrates then reboot the OEM and instal. Hopefully recover the initial $400 or have it swapped for free/warranty

OR

Suggestions welcomed. This is not my primary vehicle so Im not putting stress on the CV just FYI. Plus Im considering using @pfran42 clamps to replace all OEMs as a preventive measure.

Thanks!

 

[TXLX100]

Stick with OEM CV's, and reboot.

 

[perrobravo]

What @TXLX100 said. I just rebooted mine after one side split. I'm running at least a 2" lift with the Slee diff drop. All was fine for 20K miles or so, then the passenger side gave out. Figured it was worth the trouble to do both and won't look back.

 

[B3A5T]

In my search for kits I found a CV axle that had this description:
This is an OEM Product: OEM designates a replacement part made by the manufacturer of the original part used on the vehicle when it was produced. Most cars are originally assembled with parts made by companies other than the one whose badge appears on the vehicle. Another words, First Equipment Quality supplied with the Cv Axle Shaft

Anyone knows if its true? I know that many parts are sub contracted. I just need to know if First Equipment DID produce the OEM CVs. Found them at a very reasonable price.

 

[profro]

I got the OEM reboot kit and ordered the exact same clamps from McMasterCarr and worked on it over a couple days. Hardest parts is pulling the driveshafts. I bought a Toyota shop manual and it was pretty easy.

No way I would replace the CVs. If you didn't want to do the work yourself, then just get the reboot kit from a Toyota vendor here on Mud and have someone do it for you.

 

[B3A5T]

I got the OEM reboot kit and ordered the exact same clamps from McMasterCarr and worked on it over a couple days. Hardest parts is pulling the driveshafts. I bought a Toyota shop manual and it was pretty easy.

No way I would replace the CVs. If you didn't want to do the work yourself, then just get the reboot kit from a Toyota vendor here on Mud and have someone do it for you.

Thanks for your response, you actually answer my next question which was: Do I use the standard Toyota clamps or the Pframs.
Baertrax in Dallas is doing both my CVs next week (proactively) using oem reboot kits. The thing is: do I use the clamps and grease that comes with the kit or do I upgrade the clamps from the get go and use Redline Molly grease?

 

[RobRed]

The first question in do I replace is how old are the current axles?

 

[B3A5T]

The first question in do I replace is how old are the current axles?

They are he originals so 130k. I must say that they look pristine other than the 1 inch slit on the inner boot. It actually looks like someone took a blade to it. There is zero noises coming from them therefore I made up my mind to not replace but reboot. I read in another thread that the best solution is to keep the originals. My guess is that the lift stressed the boot in an already weakened place. You see, the boot failed not at the brace but in the middle at a spot that I would have never imagined specially bc the rubber looks so fresh.

 

[Pork Soda]

Well, I need some guidance.My CVs started slinging grease last week (or that's when I noticed). After some recent frustrations with the local dealer (some turnover in the service advisor staff, now nobody seems to know the 100 very well) I took it to a independent shop. I know the owner to be an honest guy, but I'm not sure if his staff is up to snuff.
They reccomend new axles on both sides, as they hear some clicking. Now, I have been chasing a vibration in the front end, which has been attributed to bearings (which were overdue for service) and uneven tread wear (due to the bearings or alignment). Both diagnoses were from the Dealer. Regreasing, Alignment, and Tire rotation lessened the symptom, but did not solve the problem.
So, with 192k on the clock, new axles seem reasonable. But dang, they're $$$. Independant recommends Non OEM, but that doesn't seen to work out for anyone on 'MUD.

I guess that timing belt is going I be put off a little longer.

 

[virafp]

My passenger side CV developed a slit (inner boot) after doing a mild lift. The good news is that I caught it and stopped driving the 100 therefore there is no issues with clicking noises etc. The bad news is that a new OEM is $500+ for the CV and add to it installation (about $300) which is not an option I want to consider.
The mechanics suggested using an aftermarket part. Total: $400 installed including a 1 yr warranty. But after reading thread regarding NAPA and the like CVs developing vibration at speeds north of 55mph I am concerned. The solution to fixing the vibration was to replace with OEM (Double $$$). A few had success with the NAPA parts tho. But not sure how much those 100s were lifted. Mine is 2inches and I used a BIOR Diff Drop which is supposed to help with the tearing......

My options:
Since my CV is in good shape Im thinking keep the OEM and use a Toyota reboot kit (about $45) to fix the issue. Im thinking around $350-$400.

OR

Go with the NAPA for $400 (new part) but keep my OEM. If the Napa fails/vibrates then reboot the OEM and instal. Hopefully recover the initial $400 or have it swapped for free/warranty

OR

Suggestions welcomed. This is not my primary vehicle so Im not putting stress on the CV just FYI. Plus Im considering using @pfran42 clamps to replace all OEMs as a preventive measure.

Thanks!

Ok, so here is my 2 cents...my OEM axles went out at around 95K miles. The boots had torn, and there was clicking on the right side. My alignment shop, that I have been going to for 30 years and trust, suggested new aftermarket axles. I went with teh recommendation, and the aftermarket set were replaced last week at 205K. So, in my opinion, I did not experience any issues with aftermarket axles. This too, just the boots were torn.

 

[Wasatch Jay]

I recently went through CV axle issues with my daily driver Jeep. At 208K both CV boots needed replacement. The vehicle had not been driven much at all with the damaged boots and I considered just re-booting them, but decided to get rebuilt CV axles from NAPA.
Big mistake. When I took the first axle out of the box the threads on the end were in bad shape. In my opinion that core should have been discarded. I called NAPA to see if they had any better ones, the parts guy looked at another and said it was bad and they would return it to the vendor. At that point I ordered two new Cardone Select CV axles from Rock Auto (lifetime warranty). When I opened the boxes the long side axle had been packaged in a box that was too short and to make it fit, the axle assembly had been placed in the box in a maximum angle configuration. That resulted in the CV boot taking a "set" in a contorted position. I doubt it will last very long.

Based on that experience I would not buy or recommend rebuilt CV axles from NAPA, nor would I buy a Cardone Select CV axle. I would reboot the OEM axle with a factory boot kit at the first sign of damage (not waiting until the axle had been driven to the point of clicking).

 

[B3A5T]

Ok, so here is my 2 cents...my OEM axles went out at around 95K miles. The boots had torn, and there was clicking on the right side. My alignment shop, that I have been going to for 30 years and trust, suggested new aftermarket axles. I went with teh recommendation, and the aftermarket set were replaced last week at 205K. So, in my opinion, I did not experience any issues with aftermarket axles. This too, just the boots were torn.

Thanks for the input, very cool it worked for you, it may be a case on how high my 100 is lifted vs yours. Is your lifted? If so how much?
I think the consensus here is that the aftermarket cv's are good for oem ride but get the shakes at speed on lifted 100s.
I went the route of rebuild w a Yota kit on mine and I'm very happy btw.
Cheers

 

[virafp]

Thanks for the input, very cool it worked for you, it may be a case on how high my 100 is lifted vs yours. Is your lifted? If so how much?
I think the consensus here is that the aftermarket cv's are good for oem ride but get the shakes at speed on lifted 100s.
I went the route of rebuild w a Yota kit on mine and I'm very happy btw.
Cheers

Yes, my ride is completely stock.....I think that definitely makes sense!

 

[B3A5T]

Well, I need some guidance.My CVs started slinging grease last week (or that's when I noticed). After some recent frustrations with the local dealer (some turnover in the service advisor staff, now nobody seems to know the 100 very well) I took it to a independent shop. I know the owner to be an honest guy, but I'm not sure if his staff is up to snuff.
They reccomend new axles on both sides, as they hear some clicking. Now, I have been chasing a vibration in the front end, which has been attributed to bearings (which were overdue for service) and uneven tread wear (due to the bearings or alignment). Both diagnoses were from the Dealer. Regreasing, Alignment, and Tire rotation lessened the symptom, but did not solve the problem.
So, with 192k on the clock, new axles seem reasonable. But dang, they're $$$. Independant recommends Non OEM, but that doesn't seen to work out for anyone on 'MUD.

I guess that timing belt is going I be put off a little longer.

Man, feel your pain. I just did the cvs (reboot bc there was no clicking) but we discovered that my driver side bearngs were bad. So, proactively I did both inner and outer etc and went Yota) and I did both driver and passenger. Same for the CVs. I only had my passenger side leaking but might as well do both sides at once= peace of mind which brings me to your timing belt! don't play with that! Get the kit (oem) and replace pump etc. you let that go andyou will be really pissed. Think how many miles the originals lasted! There's value on buying oem. In your case 192 k miles! And not to be a dick but if you would have rebooted your cvs as soon as they got torn you would have only had to buy the $40 reboot kit. My point on this ? Well don't wait on the maintenance specially the timing belt. I'm. Not a dentist but think of car maintenance like oral hygiene : the sooner you deal with the cavity the best, wait and you'll have to get a root canal.
Cheers
.

 

[Pork Soda]

Yep, as soon as I typed it all out this morning, the choice seemed pretty clear. I ordered OEM axles this afternoon. Once again, the fun stuff (bumper, tire carrier, new exhaust, etc.) is on the back burner. But, damn, they are expensive.

 

[B3A5T]

Yep, as soon as I typed it all out this morning, the choice seemed pretty clear. I ordered OEM axles this afternoon. Once again, the fun stuff (bumper, tire carrier, new exhaust, etc.) is on the back burner. But, damn, they are expensive.

Lol! I know right?!?