Tire carrier in stock rear bumper

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Joined
Dec 9, 2007
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2,639
Location
Vancouver BC
So I want more clearance when off pavement, but don't want to lose the stock spare location for city use because a swing out is a pain to use the rest of the time. What to do?

The 4x4 Labs bumper would otherwise be ideal.

Solution is to build a swingout into the stock bumper so I can remove the carrier when not on a road trip.

I used a heavy duty spindle from summit machine, and used a slam latch instead of the red over-center toggles so that my wife would find it more user friendly. Also a gas strut to hold it in the open position when stopped on a slope. When the carrier is removed, I have the striker exposed still, and the ball stud. I'll be making a cover for the spindle soon.

Thanks to 'mud for the idea, saw wildyoats writeup which was very helpful. And Cruisin Offroad for supplying some of the parts.

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I love it, I wish one of our vendors would build something like it in a kit. You could bolt on the portion that attaches to the crossmember, and the whole thing could be done with no welding required.
 
And my plate is moved to the very edge of the plate opening. I put some nutserts in the rear panel using the two holes on the right side of the plate (vertically) so that they'd be hidden when I remove the carrier and put the plate back in the original spot.

The plate is technically obscured when viewed directly from the rear, but is visible from the drivers seat of a vehicle following behind.

It is mostly illuminated still with the stock lic bulbs. It would be up to the discretion of the police officer to write me a ticket for obscured plate, a risk I will have to take until I find a more permanent solution.

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Good job.
Might want to add a stop in case the wife forgets to latch it one day.
Don't ask me how I know.

Thanks for the kudos.

Mines a slam latch just like a door. Slam it shut and its latched. The gas strut is also has over center action so it holds the swing arm shut.

What I need is a positive stop for the open position so the gas strut doesn't blow out. The tab holding the ball on the carrier is already tweaked a bit.
 
Make a plate holder that bolts or quick connects on the square tube that sticks through the center of the wheel. Run a trailer pigtail harness for running lights on your license plate light.
 
Looks good, Brian.

Definitely put a stop for the open position. Make sure it stops the swingout just before the strut does, as those struts don't last long when also acting as a stop.
 
Thanks for the kudos.

Mines a slam latch just like a door. Slam it shut and its latched. The gas strut is also has over center action so it holds the swing arm shut.

What I need is a positive stop for the open position so the gas strut doesn't blow out. The tab holding the ball on the carrier is already tweaked a bit.

^ That's what I was talking about.
If it opens too fast or someone forgets to latch it your strut is safe.
Mine was an after thought so I added the alloy plate and solid steel tubing with a cadium plated sleeve.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v117/markn1964/P1010004_zps076dceed.jpg
 
^ That's what I was talking about.
If it opens too fast or someone forgets to latch it your strut is safe.
Mine was an after thought so I added the alloy plate and solid steel tubing with a cadium plated sleeve.

Thanks for the pic! I like how the strut is hidden once the tailgate is flipped down, and much more damage resistant.

I'll toss a hinge stop on as soon as I figure out a clean way to do it.

Thanks for the tips everyone. Didn't think to use the trailer wire for the lic plate lol.

The little tube in the middle of the rim is to ease my back when I hoof it up there. Toss spare onto tube, then line up the lug nuts.

As for somebody making a kit, hefty used to make one, but people were sticker shocked.

If I didn't want to stow the spare underneath 95% of the time I'd just do a 4x4 labs bumper.
 
@


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