Timing Cover Gasket

[sk8salomon]

Started the teardown tonight. Got all the belts and pulleys off except the crank pulley. FSM says the "claw nut" needs to come off 1st then it looks like a gear puller is used to get the pulley off. I thought I'd be lucky with my hub socket but too big. Close, but if I had to guess, I'd say between 30~52mm. Anybody know the size of this nut? Any secrets to getting this pulley off?

 

[cruiser88]

I cannot remember the size offhand but I always used the motor to loosen the nut .

 

[sk8salomon]

I cannot remember the size offhand but I always used the motor to loosen the nut .

uh, how exactly is that performed? do you still use a huge crecent wrench to hold the nut while you turn it over?

 

[cruiser88]

uh, how exactly is that performed? do you still use a huge crecent wrench to hold the nut while you turn it over?

Yea that is what I normally used along with a short section of pipe to slip over (I always used the frame to jam in). Just make sure you know the correct rotation of the motor so you dont fawk stuff up.

Just a bump and your done

But not everyone prefers this method.

 

[sk8salomon]

Yea that is what I normally used along with a short section of pipe to slip over (I always used the frame to jam in). Just make sure you know the correct rotation of the motor so you dont fawk stuff up.

Just a bump and your done

But not everyone prefers this method.

cool, thanks. i've got a huge crecent wrench at work i'll bring home and try tomorrow night.

 

[fastjim11]

2f is 46mm

 

[Dave-T]

He ^ is correct 46mm or 1 13/16 inch.

With my 2F pulley there is no way that you would fit a crescent or pipe wrench onto the nut. It's just too recessed and tucked in there. A socket is the way to go! I have bumped it loose with the engine, definitely the easiest route. You can also use one of the drilled holes in the flywheel to keep the engine from turning by sticking a screwdriver or allen wrench etc. in the hole and against the bellhousing.

As far as the pulley, it comes off very easily with a harmonic balancer/steering wheel puller. I'm sure you could use a gear puller as well though.

 

[sk8salomon]

Went to the store today and bought a 46mm socket. $30 at the local hardware store so I thought probably worth it. Bought a gear puller as well for $15. You guys were correcto, just a slight bump of the starter and the nut was loose. Problem now is getting the crank pulley off. The bolts that came with the gear puller seem to be 5/16" and the threads in the pulley are a bit larger. I'm guessing the closest thing to 5/16" in metric is 8mm but the threaded holes seem bigger. Anybody know what size? I'd hate to bang on the crank pulley with a hammer and fawk stuff up.

The wire ties in the pic held the socket and breaker bar in place while I bumped the starter. Had to unbolt the fan shroud as well and move up a couple inches so the socket extension would clear.

 

[grant5127]

puller holes 10mmX1.50tp

 

[Heartworm]

If you can get that fan shroud out, cut it in half. It will make your life easier in future projects.

 

[Heartworm]

Why are you taking this stuff apart? Is it an oil leak? If so, watch out that the brass oil thingy is not screwed in the timing plate too far so that the thin paper gasket will not seal.

 

[D'Animal]

Welding magnets can be used in a pinch if you run out of zip ties.

 

[sk8salomon]

Why are you taking this stuff apart? Is it an oil leak? If so, watch out that the brass oil thingy is not screwed in the timing plate too far so that the thin paper gasket will not seal.

yeah, basically oil leaks. i replaced the oil pan gaskets and that fixed a lot of small leaks. still a good drip coming from where the timing cover and oil pan meet up. got a gasket and seal from CDan with hopes that would fix it.

 

[sk8salomon]

Welding magnets can be used in a pinch if you run out of zip ties.

never heard of them, i'll take a look. thanks.

 

[ellington12]

pay close attention to the timing cover bolts when you remove them...they are not all the same length. ( if i remember correctly, some of them call for thread sealant as well.) i made this mistake before i realized the error of my ways. if you have the FSM, it will show you what bolt goes where but nonetheless just thought i would offer this heads up.

 

[sk8salomon]

pay close attention to the timing cover bolts when you remove them...they are not all the same length. ( if i remember correctly, some of them call for thread sealant as well.) i made this mistake before i realized the error of my ways. if you have the FSM, it will show you what bolt goes where but nonetheless just thought i would offer this heads up.

thanks, yes have the FSM. noticed that some are different size as well? i'll pay close attention. just picked up some M10x1.5 hex head bolts today for the gear removal tool. I'll post more tonight.

 

[sk8salomon]

got a lot further tonight. the M10x1.5 hex bolts did the trick. pulled the crank pully and balancer right off with ease. i recommend these tools for sure. did start to notice some antifreeze dribbling down the edges of the cover. hmmm, wondered what that was from?

looks like the line running from the waterpump which I think the FSM calls the oil cooler line. a very small connector hose that hooks the outlet of the waterpump to the steel tube was so dryrotted and cracked. I'd say that is where the leak is coming from. With a slight twist of the line, I was taking a green shower!

 

[sk8salomon]

ordered the gasket and cover seal from CDan. bought it a while back so can't remember exact price but i'd say around $50 for both.

this oil cooler line tube has two metal brackets that seem to line up with the holes around the timing cover. of course, the bolts were not going thru the brackets. i guess the PO didn't feel like doing it?

i lined up bolts "E" but the angle that the tube aligns with the waterpump outlet is too sharp of an angle IMO. does this look correct?

 

[sk8salomon]

i made a quick template of the bolt pattern. not only are many of the bolts different size threads, but some are different length as well. really helped with installation.

the seal puller worked great too getting the old seal out. i'm sure a large flathead screwdriver would do the trick tho.

the 46mm socket i bought for the pulley nut came in handy again for installation of the new seal.

cleaned off the old gasket and degreased the cover.

 

[Dave-T]

That short pipe actually bolts to the back of the timing cover plate, not the front. And yes the short hose is a bear to get in place. Use some light wd40 or similar lubricant to help it slide on easier.