Time to rebuild the Carburetor - Advice?

[ColoradoLC]

I have seen a few rebuild kits out there, but wanted to know opinions on the various ones.

Lay it on me!

JTOutfitters is an option I have been looking at. Does CDan sell a rebuild kit?

I would just buy a new one if I had the fund right now, but I think I would rather "get to know" my carburetor anyway so I can do a better job tuning it later on.

TIA,
Winston

 

[ColoradoLC]

I began by searching, but only after continued searching did I find a good thread on this:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/150554-my-arch-nemesis-carburetron.html

 

[FJ40Jim]

Yes, CDan can get a good kit, new float and sec. diaphragm.

 

[ColoradoLC]

Thanks Jim,

I've been reading up on your reputation on rebuilding these. If this get's hairy and I have trouble, I may just have to bite the bullet and send it your way to rebuild, but I'd like to learn something if I can, so I am going to attempt it first.

 

[nikos8]

IMO send it to Jim. Well worth the money.

 

[rchalmers3]

I have seen a few rebuild kits out there, but wanted to know opinions on the various ones.

Lay it on me!

JTOutfitters is an option I have been looking at. Does CDan sell a rebuild kit?

I would just buy a new one if I had the fund right now, but I think I would rather "get to know" my carburetor anyway so I can do a better job tuning it later on.

TIA,
Winston

Any particular reason for the rebuild? I'm thinking that if it's having a specific problem, you should post up on the symptoms. Then you will get some ideas on causes, some of which might be something other than the carburetor!

If you are preparing for a general purpose carb over haul, well then good on ya! Again, I recommend you post up on potential areas of problems and their solutions. This way you will have advance notice on trouble spots and have a higher first time sucess potential.

Best regards,

Rick

 

[chukardog]

Trust me on this and save yourself the wasted time and send it to Jim. Do it right the first time. Jim is Yoda, Jedi Master of all that is LC.

 

[lehiguy]

I have never driven a stock 60 that didn't run like the neighbor's dog just dropped a turd in the carb. Now maybe they run great with a rebuild, I don't know. But I can attest to the fact that after two highly successful desmog/Weber/header jobs that the results are terrific! No more miles and miles of tubing that can't be identified, no more sickly struggling when you step on the gas, no more cluttered, disgusting mess under the hood. The leftover pile of junk is astonishing to say the least. Just my opinion, but I wouldn't own a 2F any other way.

 

[ColoradoLC]

It ran great for about 2.5 years after I got, it, so I know's it's not too far gone yet.

It's not my DD, so keep that in mind with the timing of events below...

Here's what I am seeing:

- I was slowly getting worse and worse performance, so I took it in to have the timing adjusted and carb adjusted at a local reputable cruiser shop here in Denver. They said the timing was off and adjusted the carb too. It ran great for a little while.

- Slowly I started losing power in the low to medium end, but 2000-3000RPMs still ran normally.

- I sprayed out the carb with some carb cleaner and the performance seemed to come back for a couple of days.

- I was driving it last week about a mile from home and on the way back it started to stall and choke and I pulled over and it came back. Then last weekend, I was going to pick up a table my wide bought and it completely died. It was a hot day (90°F plus) and my carb cooler fan doesn't work, but this is usually more of an issue when I stop the engine and try and restart it (aka vapor lock). I eventually got it started and limped back home, repeating the process several times and taking about an hour to go 4 miles.

I know it could also be the intake manifold or a couple of other things, but due to the events above, I am going to start with the carb. I'm not interested in a desmog at this time.

I have about $100 to spend and I don't think Jim would do a rebuild for that, so I am going to do it myself. I stayed at a Holiday Inn Express last night, so I should be good to go...

Seriously, since it's my 3rd car, I want to do it myself. I'll probably be selling it soon to since I have the 80 so unless I just have a terrible time with it and can't get it back together, I can't see pouring more money into it if I don't have to.

Now, if I can figure out how to win the lotto, I can keep both cruisers and send Jim some cash and everyone will be happy.

Thanks for the responses fellas.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Symptoms sound more like a fuel delivery problem. Weak pump, hot vapor lock, restricted filter, etc.

 

[ColoradoLC]

Dang! Well I'll have to keep checking before I head down the carb road then. Thanks Jim.

 

[rchalmers3]

- I was driving it last week about a mile from home and on the way back it started to stall and choke and I pulled over and it came back. Then last weekend, I was going to pick up a table my wide bought and it completely died. It was a hot day (90°F plus) and my carb cooler fan doesn't work, but this is usually more of an issue when I stop the engine and try and restart it (aka vapor lock). I eventually got it started and limped back home, repeating the process several times and taking about an hour to go 4 miles.

x2 on fuel delivery.

Pull off your filter and blow through it in the direction of fuel flow. If you find it at all difficult to blow through, replace it and retest the operation of the truck.

If the filter checks out good, warm up the engine and watch the fuel level in the carb bowl sight glass. It has to remain in the sight glass and will probably do so if it is not being driven.

Borrow a low pressure gauge for testing fuel and measure both the dead end pressure of the pump output and "T'd" into the carb delivery. With the gauge T'd in, you can drive the truck and watch the fuel pressure while driving. Compare your readings to specs and you will have a better idea where your fuel delivery problems lie.

Rick

 

[ColoradoLC]

x2 on fuel delivery.

Pull off your filter and blow through it in the direction of fuel flow. If you find it at all difficult to blow through, replace it and retest the operation of the truck.

If the filter checks out good, warm up the engine and watch the fuel level in the carb bowl sight glass. It has to remain in the sight glass and will probably do so if it is not being driven.

Borrow a low pressure gauge for testing fuel and measure both the dead end pressure of the pump output and "T'd" into the carb delivery. With the gauge T'd in, you can drive the truck and watch the fuel pressure while driving. Compare your readings to specs and you will have a better idea where your fuel delivery problems lie.

Rick

Thanks Rick, I'll give it a shot this weekend and see if that helps.

 

[elkiny]

I didn't want top be w/o my truck so I just purchased a new one from the dealer, gasket too. ~$600 Done. Runs incredible.