Tie-rod clamp bolts

[scottm]

I've been soaking my tie-rod ends and hardware in PBB for weeks, now I tried loosening them to see if they'd move. The first bolt I tried snapped off, I'd better get a handful of proper bolts before proceeding. I found a replacement 12M1.25X50 at the hardware store and I'm good to go, but what strength are these supposed to be? My replacement is 8.8, I can get 10.9 from McMaster.

 

[Junk]

Scott, these shouldn't be breaking off and should not be difficult to take off at all. What the heck you doing to those things?

 

[IdahoDoug]

He's living in Michigan, that's what. Probably worse salt conditions than the east coast. Yowza.

DougM

 

[Junk]

Hmm, ok, didn't think ya'll got snow and ice in MI. I never claimed to know anything about which I speak

 

[scottm]

The truck's from Cleveland, and looks pretty good underneath. Closer inspection after cleaning shows pipe-wrench marks on the rods and pretty good looking rod ends. I'd say these have been replaced already at 130k, odd. A couple swings with a 3/4 drive ratchet snapped the bolt easily, never turned in the nut. I wonder if the odometer has been tampered with, but some things look better than my well-maintained 40th with the same mileage from Kansas City.

 

[landtoy80]

Scott,Wait till you try and turn the tie rod. I spent a couple of days trying to remove and install a new tie rod end. It is still tight but can be turned with a pipe wrench.
Next time I will go with Slee's tie rods.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Next time I will go with Slee's tie rods.

Just curious ...why Slee's over OEM. In the past I have used others (Moog/TRW) only because they were zerked. Are Slee's zerked or are there other advantages?

Phil

 

[landtoy80]

Its the tie rod and drag link tha I would replace. I think they are cheaper than OEM. Don't know about the tir rod ends, I think OEM are fine.
I think Marlin has HD tie rid and drag link too.

THe threads on ky drage link are screwed up.