Build This years homework
- Thread starter REZARF
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I have used a lot of those crimp connectors with shrink wrap and the solder pellet inside. Crimp and then hit them with the heat gun. As far as I know none of them have ever failed but I haven't exactly put them to a come-along test either.
I think LC connectors and terminals are a version of Delphi, and if you are adamant about OEM style connectors, you should probably gear up for that style.
The most common Deutsch connectors you come across are low amp (10-15 amp), smaller wire diameter (16AWG - 20AWG) that are mostly suitable for sensors, and are easily dealt with if you know an Empire/Cat field service guy with a connector kit. When you start jumping up in amperage demand and wire gauge, you start running into more obstacles with terminals, connector housings, and crimpers. One shortcoming of these is that you can’t run two wires to one terminal.
The most common Deutsch connectors you come across are low amp (10-15 amp), smaller wire diameter (16AWG - 20AWG) that are mostly suitable for sensors, and are easily dealt with if you know an Empire/Cat field service guy with a connector kit. When you start jumping up in amperage demand and wire gauge, you start running into more obstacles with terminals, connector housings, and crimpers. One shortcoming of these is that you can’t run two wires to one terminal.
wit a 
and always use Speaker wire and just run 'em across dashboard 
Probably so according to this crowd but ive seen multiple old tractors set up that way long before I was born that are still working great. My theory is that the solder creeps up the wire and tins it which in the long run helps prevent corrosion from creeping in under your insulation.
Im a belt and suspenders sort of person when it comes to critical stuff like battery cables and ignition wiring...
Crimp it, solder it, then use the heat shrink with the sealer and call it done for several decades.
Why do you insist on continually making derogatory comments about the group down here?? This is probably is the nicest most helpful group on the internet..
You are an electronics guru in some of your other post and I would have expected you to quote the fact that solder will make a great electrical connection but will weaken the wire and is more prone to failure under stress. This is the reason you would use a crimp connection in critical applications regardless how you chose to keep your pants up.
Stress will be concentrated where the solder wicking stops.
NASA STD 8739.4A
The old Land Cruisers used a combination of Yazaki and Sumitomo connectors. These are fairly simple open barrel crimp terminals, some are sealed others are not. Most are readily available, but not all. Both are prone to corrosion over time.
NASA STD 8739.4A
The old Land Cruisers used a combination of Yazaki and Sumitomo connectors. These are fairly simple open barrel crimp terminals, some are sealed others are not. Most are readily available, but not all. Both are prone to corrosion over time.
- Thread starter
- #370
I had a little time today to knock out a couple little things on the 55. My old FJ40 getting a line share of my free time lately. I’m so close to having it back on the road. I can taste it! Turn over and catch, but it won’t stay running. I need more time to diagnose it in another set of hands to start it while I watch and fiddle.
While I was waiting on a few other things, I decided to tackle a couple quick things on the 55.
I decided to see if I couldn’t straighten out this front grill a little bit. I decided I would give it 30 minutes of time and see how far I got.
I grabbed a small ball hammer (I don’t want to take the time to find my body hammers!) a small brass punch and a couple of nylon blocks and got to work.
Here’s what I’m starting with… nothing too crazy, but also nothing is straight!
These are the areas I focused on.
While I was waiting on a few other things, I decided to tackle a couple quick things on the 55.
I decided to see if I couldn’t straighten out this front grill a little bit. I decided I would give it 30 minutes of time and see how far I got.
I grabbed a small ball hammer (I don’t want to take the time to find my body hammers!) a small brass punch and a couple of nylon blocks and got to work.
Here’s what I’m starting with… nothing too crazy, but also nothing is straight!
These are the areas I focused on.
- Thread starter
- #371
Here’s a few before and after shots…
Here you can see the gap above the white nylon block.
After about 30 small, light taps with the hammer using the nylon block as a dolly.
Here is a bent section near the mounting tab. A little persuasion and tapping and everything starts to go back into place.
After a few minutes of well placed light taps.
Here you can see the gap above the white nylon block.
After about 30 small, light taps with the hammer using the nylon block as a dolly.
Here is a bent section near the mounting tab. A little persuasion and tapping and everything starts to go back into place.
After a few minutes of well placed light taps.
- Thread starter
- #372
This was a rotational bend and with some soft jaws in my vise I started to bend it back into shape. I was afraid I’d kink it but with some light twisting it came out great.
Overall, there were a lot of little spots that were easy but there were some spots I started to make worse (the long gaps between the hood and the top “bar” of the grill” and the Logo section had some weird bends that I decided not to push it too hard on.
Overall I’m happy. I’ll probably paint it before putting it back on.
Before:
After:
Overall, there were a lot of little spots that were easy but there were some spots I started to make worse (the long gaps between the hood and the top “bar” of the grill” and the Logo section had some weird bends that I decided not to push it too hard on.
Overall I’m happy. I’ll probably paint it before putting it back on.
Before:
After:
This is on my to-do list, not near the top, but straighten and repaint the grill would be a nice start to exterior visuals.
Come to Idaho and I'll give you a prefect grill and headlight rings Cerakoted and ready to go..
Not sure how far I’ll roadtrip the 55 once retired but I’d love to roadtrip Idaho and Utah among other spots once I’m not attending the salt mine daily.
. Dats hos we do it in New Hamps 
- Thread starter
- #377
The hardest part was drilling out the 2 bolts that didn’t want to give up. A little effort will go a long way with these grills. The metal is thin and pushes around easy enough.
I like the patina and can’t decide if I’m going to hit this with a fresh coat of paint or keep the rough appearance. Thoughts? It’d be easiest to paint it now before putting it back on the Pig.
I’d agree, if the whole truck is polished then freshen up the grill.
In my case PO painted it black so it needs a fresh coat of silver.