Build This years homework

[REZARF]

Had some time today between World Cup games and YouTube… we had an all day rainy day, which is rare here in Montana. We had snow today a few 100 feet higher up than the valley I live in.

Anyhow, I attacked the brake wheel cylinders.

Here is where we left off. Disassembly and “cleaning.”

Got them all bagged up. Every nut and bolt. Only missing 1-2 parts but they’ll turn up I’m sure.

We masked them off front and rear and u hit them with some rust converter and Rustoleum industrial enamel. The enamel is sure to lift off as soon as we spill some fresh DOT Brake fluid on them. Haha

This one happens to be number our number 2 cylinder. I did number one without the camera so I could focus. Here’s how it went.

First off a quick cleanup of the bore. I used 320/600 sand paper. The pistons were way more corroded than the cylinder was. I bet I could have reused most of my parts but the new rebuild kits from @cruiseroutfit fit the bill so while we’re in there, we’re replacing parts!

 

[REZARF]

Hers the kit number from Kurt and the gang… thanks again Bryce!

Quick brush with a wire brush and some CLP, I used some 320/600 grit to clean up all contact surfaces.

A dot of anti-seize on the adjuster bolt and on each of of the pistons. This is where nearly all the frozen cylinders were corroded. Side note, I hate anti-seize as it’s such a mess. However after owning my FJ40 for 27 years I have come to live its benefits. A little goes a LONG way.

Fresh rubber seals go on easy. I started adding a little lube to the rubber so it would seat easier. Worked great.

This is the harder of the two boots to get into place. I found putting it on after installing the piston to be the best way to do it.

 

[REZARF]

Here is the guts of a cylinder. A spring, a plunger, a seal, the piston and lastly the boot.

Spring and plunger go in first.

Seal goes in with the “cup” facing inwards.

A dot of Anti seize…

Smeared, and spread thin…

 

[REZARF]

Rubber boots fitted…

A dot of blue lock tight on the adjuster arm bolt, split washer and screw and you’re done.

I went ahead and cleaned up the threads on the bleeder screw and add a dot of antseize.

 

[REZARF]

Rinse repeat… well almost. I busted the plunger on wheel cylinder #3, gotta find a spare or JB weld mine back together.

All lined up for their beauty shot.

The Toyota ones have their sweet TEQ logos, L or R and a series of numbers 15/16, 1/4… etc.

My one corner (rear passenger) had two aftermarket wheel cylinders. The kits I had in hand didn’t fit these but they were in good shape so I cleaned them up and lubed them up and reinstalled the guts. I might pull off two OEM ones of our parts cruiser, but I’m not THAT motivated right now.

 

[REZARF]

Here is my busted part.. anyone got one laying around? I need the cap thingy at the bottom of the spring.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Nice job. I bought the aftermarket ones that Kurt sells but kept my OEM ones to rebuild. Unfortunately I don't have any spares to share or I would certainly send some your way. The replacement cylinders they sell are relatively inexpensive. You might consider picking up one of those if you can't find parts.

 

[REZARF]

New races for the rear axles…

The old races were pretty scored and had seen some heat or lack of oil. A fingernail can detect some valleys and ridges.

I tried a new trick I saw on the YouTubes… running air at the contact point of the cut off wheel and I was able to cut off both old races with ONE thin cutoff wheel. Impressive.

First one I cut like a candy cane. It’s easier to get down into the axle backing plate at that angle.

Then a few good whacks with a cold chisel and break the last few thousands of an inch of bearing material. The. It just slides off.

 

[REZARF]

Getting new bearings on isn’t that big of a deal… unless you don’t have a press. I do not have a press so into the freezer the axles go. The first axle got hung up yesterday half way so I froze the axle/race overnight and hit the race with a little heat from the torch and help it slide on. Easy peasy.

Add heat to the new race. Then drive it home.

Fully seated.

For the long side I did it different…

I tossed the race into the shop toaster oven and warmed it up to “just need gloves” to be handled temp.

Then grab the cold axle and slide on the hot new race and drive it home with the old race as a sacrificial drift. Maybe 3 minutes once I had all the parts at temp.

 

[riderjgs]

Tools in the dishwasher, I've seen that. First time for auto parts in the freezer. Axle...it's what's for dinner?

 

[RUSH55]

First time for auto parts in the freezer.

That is part of the SOP for some jobs.
And if you need it colder, you bury it in dry ice or hose it down with liquid nitrogen.

 

[REZARF]

My buddies wife left town and tossed a transfer case in the dishwasher and rebuilt it on their way too nice dining room table.

…never got caught. Freakin’ legend. Haha

 

[3_puppies]

My buddies wife left town and tossed a transfer case in the dishwasher and rebuilt it on their way too nice dining room table.

…never got caught. Freakin’ legend. Haha

that's one you keep quiet about until his funeral

 

[REZARF]

that's one you keep quiet about until his funeral

True! Notice I named no names!

 

[REZARF]

Let the tire games begin. I’ve been hoarding tires and wheels for a while. I think I’m going to keep the 55 on factory steelies… I have @wngrog to thank as his steel wheel tech thread inspired me to keep the old one around.

So today I pulled the tires/wheels off the parts Cruiser and bolted Project Homework’s wheels/tires in their place.

Old tired tires…

Less tired tires, haha!

I brought the old set to my house for a full pressure wash, and spa treatment. I’ll pull the tires Monday and start scrubbing them down and smoothing them out… then onto some spray paint.

Wheels seem to be in good shape!

Looks like the spare may have been painted black if it is original to the truck? That tire and TUBE have been on there for a hot minute (as the kids say).

Wheels look straight, should spin up nice.