thinking about a 100 now

[cybler]

Well I've been shopping for an 80 or 62 for a couple of months now. My wife recently went out of town and rented an SUV bigger than her CR-V, liked the bigger size and added features, and now decided we should get a landcruiser for one of our daily drivers.

So now budget has grown and I'm looking primarily at 100's. So do any of you AZ guys drive and wheel 100's? Are they as strong as an 80? Since it will be a dd, we won't wheel too hard in it, but I still want a capable truck. The guys in the 100 forum seem to like them.

Thanks for your opinions. BTW anyone know of any locked 100's for sale in the valley?

David

 

[-Spike-]

/me gets ready to bang on the 'Shotts' smiley repeatedly

-Spike

 

[Tools R Us]

The front axle is stronger in the 80, but if your needs are mostly DD and your not doing to beat it too hard on the trail the 100 is a great truck.

 

[tlcruiserman]

Well I've been shopping for an 80 or 62 for a couple of months now. My wife recently went out of town and rented an SUV bigger than her CR-V, liked the bigger size and added features, and now decided we should get a landcruiser for one of our daily drivers.

So now budget has grown and I'm looking primarily at 100's. So do any of you AZ guys drive and wheel 100's? Are they as strong as an 80? Since it will be a dd, we won't wheel too hard in it, but I still want a capable truck. The guys in the 100 forum seem to like them.

Thanks for your opinions. BTW anyone know of any locked 100's for sale in the valley?

David

I have both 80 series as well as 100 series, and I can tell you that the 100 will wheel just as good as the 80 both are awesome offroad. You will hear a lot about the cons of an IFS and pros on solid front axle, but to be honest as long as you take the time and learn how to wheel and IFS (slightly different) you will be fine. as far as mileage goes I have found them both to be pretty close, maybe a little better with the 100 series, the 100 series is very quick and has better drivability in traffic and on the freeway than the 80 series. If you are 6' or taller you will find that you fit much better in the 100 series than the 80 series. I can tell you that I have TRD supercharger on one of my 80 series and the performance is about the with that one as the 100 series. The 100 series is going to have 4.30 gears and the 80 will have 4.11 gears but with the different tranys it will work about about the same.

My advise is if you can get the extra cash together go with the 100 series you will not regret it. Right now they are going pretty cheap for used as comparted to a year ago or so. You should look for a 100 series that also has the rear AC/Heat, I think it is kind of a must with the 3rd row and the kickout side windows. You can find one with factory rear locker, but that was only up to 99', I would not put a lot of effort into that feature if you get one without you can always add front and rear ARB after the fact, that will also allow you to engage it when you want (high range as well as low). I would recomend Dobinsen lift for the 100 series (I personally thing it is better than OME), as well as sliders (personally I recommend Slee Sliders, he also sell the Dobinsen I think under private label).

Hope that helps.

Cheers,

Michael

 

[cybler]

Thanks for the good info guys. I just test drove a 2000 in Chandler at the AutoMart, anyone else looked at this one? It was pretty nice, you're correct about the good acceleration, very quick and travels down the road very nicely. I'm not 6', but I do like the fit, and the kids will do well with the rear ac, and aftermarket DVD.

I think it's got a small lift on it, I saw what I think were Old Man Emu shocks, maybe 2 inches taller than normal.

It's got 92k miles, and they have a price on ther Internet for just under $21k, listed at $24k if just walk onto the lot. KBB books it at $25k for a dealer, so I think I'm getting a pretty good deal.

Thanks again.

David

 

[RHINO]

You will hear a lot about the cons of an IFS and pros on solid front axle, but to be honest as long as you take the time and learn how to wheel and IFS (slightly different) you will be fine. Cheers,

Michael

i think most of those guys THINK they wheel harder than they actually do. IFS is fine for anything you'll want to do with that rig and keep it something the wife will want to drive. Shotz will chime in, and believe me he wheels his 100 just fine and within its limitations and i dont see anything wrong with that.

 

[Living in the Past]

With 92K I would make sure the 90K service has been done (timing belt/water pump) or that will cost right up front. I just bought a 2000 back in January and have put 4K on it in just over two months. After using it off road I'm wondering why I keeping my FJ62. This last weekend was he first time I used the 62 off road since buying the 100, after a couple of miles I started feeling every bump in my lower back and wondering why I didn't take the 100.


John

 

[tlcruiserman]

i think most of those guys THINK they wheel harder than they actually do. IFS is fine for anything you'll want to do with that rig and keep it something the wife will want to drive. Shotz will chime in, and believe me he wheels his 100 just fine and within its limitations and i dont see anything wrong with that.

Right, I guess THINK is an operative word in your sentence. I wheel different rigs for different applications, and my 100 is not the hardest wheeled rig.

Cheers,

Michael

 

[cybler]

With 92K I would make sure the 90K service has been done (timing belt/water pump) or that will cost right up front.

Yup, I still need to check on that. I'm thinking that may have been the reason it was traded in. My CR-V is at 84k, and it would be nice to trade up so I don't have to do the work on that one. I guess either way I may be doing the work anyways.

I have a friend who is a mechanic so if we don't find proof, I can usually get that kind of work done at his house for the price of parts.

Thanks for your help.

David

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Thanks for the good info guys. I just test drove a 2000 in Chandler at the AutoMart, anyone else looked at this one? It was pretty nice, you're correct about the good acceleration, very quick and travels down the road very nicely. I'm not 6', but I do like the fit, and the kids will do well with the rear ac, and aftermarket DVD.

I think it's got a small lift on it, I saw what I think were Old Man Emu shocks, maybe 2 inches taller than normal.

It's got 92k miles, and they have a price on ther Internet for just under $21k, listed at $24k if just walk onto the lot. KBB books it at $25k for a dealer, so I think I'm getting a pretty good deal.

Thanks again.

David

Thats too much money for a '00 with 92k IMO

 

[BMAN]

Thats too much money for a '00 with 92k IMO

What Phil says is relative. Look up the trade in value and you have a fair starting point for what they are into that vehicle. My Audi was $28k lot price and KBB was in the same neighborhood. Trade in was $19.5k and when I said I liked the car but was going to continue looking they dropped the price to $19.5k immediately. They gave me KBB trade in value for my Sequoia at $24k and had it on the lot the next week for $38k. Dealers are in this for a proffit. Check the trade in value and start your negotiations there.

 

[bluecruiser]

I just got a 99 100 last week and on road this thing is awesome. So much room and such a quality feel.

I did take it on one easy desert trail yesterday and wow I can hardly wait to get my lift and sliders to really wheel.

I don't have that much experience with it yet, but my 1st impression is the 100's are really solid rigs. (Awesome comfort too)

 

[cybler]

Well I don't think we're going for the one at the dealer. The first salesman I talked to said they weren't able to verify if the 90k work had been done cause they just didn't have the info available. Then a few minutes later, another guy came out and told it had been done, he seemed very sure about it too. They picked this one up at auction, so I actually believed the first guy saying they couldn't confirm it.

So I think I'm getting two different stories in order to make the LC look better. Then they started asking me about some recall work on my CR-V, nothing I'd ever heard about. I think this is some run-around in order to low ball me on my trade.

So with all that and the crazy cost for TTL, I'm writting off dealers and going to look at private parties only.

David

 

[cybler]

Well stay away from the Automart Superstore in Chandler, I've caught them in a full blown lie. I was told my trade-in required a head gasket replacement by Honda. I called two Honda dealers, one where I bought the CR-V and both knew nothing about it, one even agreeing that the guy was full of sht!

I also asked for proof that the timing belt was changed, he was very sure about this, and have yet to receive a fax I was promised, I doubt it will come.

I'm not sure if it will do much good, but I will let BBB know about this exchange. Thank God for google and the Internet now, it has really empowered us consumers.

I may have found a promising one from a private party, so I hope to be wheeling with you guys soon.

David

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

/me gets ready to bang on the 'Shotts' smiley repeatedly

-Spike

I'm hurting already!

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

I'd suggest you consider a 2000+ only. This way you get TRAC and give up the rear locker. TRAC will do a better job for you off-road on all moderate to difficult trails than a rear locker.
IF in the future you'll run very difficult trails you'll want and need a front locker. At that moment you can add the rear too and have a fully locked/TRAC driven vehicle which is the best setup there is.
On-road the 2000+ are safer as they didn't tip on 2 wheels in testing like 98-99 did. Lift the thing, and that scenario asks for TRAC even more.

A 100 isn't an 80 and visa versa. There's 2 trail rig scenarios in my opinion:

1. 2-3" lift: A 100 will go anywhere that 80 will if equally equipped, EXCEPT where the 100's larger size stops it. These places I've found to be rare.

2. 4+ inches lift: Can't do that to a 100 (yet) and you can an 80, therefore, overall an 80 can be a better-suited hardcore rig.

Construction? Solidity? Reliability? That's easy...the 100 is a newer design that offers many improvements to it's build over the older series. The IFS is not a weak point whatsoever. 100+K of hell and all is tight and like new. You can see the 100 buildup on my site. ENJOY!