Thermostat Question

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Apr 14, 2008
Threads
367
Messages
5,754
Location
North of LA California
My tstat is possibly shot. My temp gauge reads Cold all the time. Is it ok to drive this vehicle for 3 hours highway today? Does the engine always stay cold and it's ok or am I going to blow my head like an idiot if I drive it like this?
 
Are you sure its not just the gauge or the temp sensor? Even a shot thermostat will get you your engine warmed up.
 
It's possible that it's the gauge or sensor. I havn't went through everything yet.
 
Maybe it don't have a thermostat in it. If you drive it 30 minutes and the thermostat never opens, its gonna be really HOT regardless of what your guage says.
 
Very likely the O ring that sits on top of the thermostat. I assume it's the same for a 62 and a 60.

My truck never got above cold in the winter, and the heat was not hot. I put that O ring on there, now it stays a little below the middle of the gauge. And nice hot heat.
 
I'm too lazy to test everything. Ordered a new tstat and sending unit. The in dash gauge was $74. Eff that. I'll custom solder it if it's that bad.
 
It was a 100º in SoCal yesterday and today isnt much cooler. Your truck DEF would have at least been warm so I'd venture to guess it has nothing to do with the t-stat
 
I'm going to guess that it's the sender unit.
 
I'm going to guess that it's the sender unit.

Find out if it is ground or power to signal and see if it affects the gauge by grounding or sending 12v to it. I DO NOT know which the sending unit is but that is an easy way to effectively use process of elimination.
 
FSM says apply 12V and expect a 3.5V on the multimeter.
 
I will be replacing the tstat and the temp sending unit next week when the parts get here before SnT. A free beer of their choosing to the gentleman or young lady who posts pictures of either location so I don't have to fish through the body chasis FSM.

Beer has to be obtainable at a general grocery store or Bevmo.
 
Randy-Weird parallel universe here, but I have the same parts coming from Dan. Thermostat, gasket, oring, temp sensor and new housing bolts. Find me at Surf and Turf and show it off, since I won't get to it before the trip. I'll be in the faded blue FJ60 near the trailers in the main camp.
 
Randy-Weird parallel universe here, but I have the same parts coming from Dan. Thermostat, gasket, oring, temp sensor and new housing bolts. Find me at Surf and Turf and show it off, since I won't get to it before the trip. I'll be in the faded blue FJ60 near the trailers in the main camp.

I will be in a grey FJ62 with an ARB front and a Kaymar rear. I might put the con-ferr roof rack on for show. :D

What are these "new housing bolts" you speak of?
 
I will be in a grey FJ62 with an ARB front and a Kaymar rear. I might put the con-ferr roof rack on for show. :D

What are these "new housing bolts" you speak of?


For what ever reason, the housing bolts in Toyota thermostat houings are extremely brittle and tend to break rather than unscrew. I just always install new ones when I do a thermostat. I think they are $0.70 each, so not a huge expense. I forgot to mention, I'm also replacing those 2 small curved hoses over top of the housing that take coolant from the throttle body.
 
I have tons of extra metric bolts. If they are standard sizes then I'll already have them.
 
For what ever reason, the housing bolts in Toyota thermostat housings are extremely brittle and tend to break rather than unscrew. I just always install new ones when I do a thermostat. I think they are $0.70 each, so not a huge expense. I forgot to mention, I'm also replacing those 2 small curved hoses over top of the housing that take coolant from the throttle body.

I replaced all those on my 60 recently. The truck was without thermostat when I purchased it, Started to overheat, went and have the radiator cleaned at a radiator shop, still was overheating. went an put in a thermostat and then started overheating pretty bad. I have a second Temp gauge and it was showing 240 degrees. So, I removed the thermostat, re-cleaned the radiator (dumped some orange based degreaser), and problem solved. Sorry that you guys that live in the north need to have a thermostat here in P.R. heaters are extra weight in the vehicle and thermostats are for vehicles with computers.

PS. I cracked the housing, top and bottom but JB Weld rescued me.
:cheers:
 
I replaced all those on my 60 recently. The truck was without thermostat when I purchased it, Started to overheat, went and have the radiator cleaned at a radiator shop, still was overheating. went an put in a thermostat and then started overheating pretty bad. I have a second Temp gauge and it was showing 240 degrees. So, I removed the thermostat, re-cleaned the radiator (dumped some orange based degreaser), and problem solved. Sorry that you guys that live in the north need to have a thermostat here in P.R. heaters are extra weight in the vehicle and thermostats are for vehicles with computers.

PS. I cracked the housing, top and bottom but JB Weld rescued me.
:cheers:
You did not solve the actual problem . Why was it overheating initially?
 
I did some FSM reading last night and I found that the thermostat is above the water pump in the "thermostat housing" at the front of the engine block right behind the radiator and above the belts.

Haven't chased down the sender location but I think it goes into the water pump.

QUESTION: When I turn my engine off and open the hood, the radiator is so hot it can burn my skin if I leave my hand on it. Is this normal or is this part of my problem with the thermostat staying closed/open and not circulating coolant into the engine?
 
Hey Randy,

Someone makes a radiator cap with a thermometer built in. I think you can get them from Summit Racing. It's a quick way to determine if you're really running hot.

Good luck - Seth
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom