The Wall of Shame

[65swb45]

In the meantime, here’s a static shot of the stepped-spline end of the axleshaft

I can literally rock the side gears 1/16” back and forth on the wiped out splines

 

[Spike Strip]

Wow....

 

[RAYJON]

I am still amazed at stuff like this, its not that hard to do it right, and if you dont know learn, i know why most shops do not want to work on older stuff..

the area that i see the most hack work is wiring, especially grounds, its not hard to buy good crimp connectors and heat shrink them.. add a relay for heavy loads and ground properly...and yes my fj40 wiring harness went in the trash someone thought the crimp on connectors were the right way to add/fix stuff..

even the factory messes it up like all the late model gm stuff where the ground connection is right behind the drivers side front wheel and always caked in mud...and needs cleaned..

 

[65swb45]

Another entry from the SA truck that just keeps on giving...

I’ve seen the ‘boomerang ‘ shackles on the Internet before. Never really been impressed with the sleight of hand that makes you think the geometry is really changed. But I never had to take one apart before. Now you and I can be appalled together.

A properly designed shackle should always be just flush to the bushing shoulders, not tight, and not loose. That is the reason why my double duty shackles with the adjustable center gussets really excel compared to everything else on the market. Well, the boomerang shackles are the exact antithesis.

The holes in the plates are oversized to the bolts. THEY USE CONE WASHERS TO CREATE AN INTERFERENCE FIT between the shackle plate and the bushing. The only way to keep these plates tight is to continually overtighten them against the bushing shoulders. Dynamic forces will always be trying to push the plates off the cones, grinding down the cones, oval-ing out the holes in the plates, and of course wearing down the shoulders of the bushings. It’s a three way race to the bottom! :headbang:

 

[archie73]

Can I add something I did?

In my quest to stop a slight drip from the parking brake I resealed my x-case. It worked great. Leak slowed significantly. Went wheeling. Seemed to be working great. Driving back to camp I got a screeching noise and pulled over. Transfer oil streaming on the ground.
See what missing?

It did this...

In my zest to avoid dissimilar metal reaction, I think I contaminated the loctite with anti-seize. The missing bolt fell under the drive gear and punched a hole in the case. The other one was not even finger tight.
I’ve got an Orion mostly built...

 

[65swb45]

Can I add something I did?

In my quest to stop a slight drip from the parking brake I resealed my x-case. It worked great. Leak slowed significantly. Went wheeling. Seemed to be working great. Driving back to camp I got a screeching noise and pulled over. Transfer oil streaming on the ground.
See what missing?
View attachment 2103452
It did this...
View attachment 2103451
In my zest to avoid dissimilar metal reaction, I think I contaminated the loctite with anti-seize. The missing bolt fell under the drive gear and punched a hole in the case. The other one was not even finger tight.
I’ve got an Orion mostly built...

If it’s any consolation, a fair number of 1974 Landcruisers suffered that fate without any outside interference. It seemed that the factory didn’t do a great job tightening the two inside bolts that year. I sold a fair number of housings to people who had punched a bolt through the bottom of their cases. And they were all between 9/73 and 4/75.

 

[pbgbottle]

Hey I liked this idea I did it on my rig from the Chevy water pump to the oem heater. Lol only difference was I used a old piece of the brass or copper Toyota plumbing pipe inside the hoses so it didn’t collapse.

Yet another IOS example from my rig. Home made heater hose reducers.

View attachment 1617637

View attachment 1617638

Yes, just stuff the smaller hose into the larger, and clamp it with a normal hose clamp. He did this twice, once in each hose.

 

[bikersmurf]

Hey I liked this idea I did it on my rig from the Chevy water pump to the oem heater. Lol only difference was I used a old piece of the brass or copper Toyota plumbing pipe inside the hoses so it didn’t collapse.

Or simply get a brass fitting from the plumbing shop that is the correct size that’ll screw into a Chevy water pump. $1.29 well spent.

 

[65swb45]

The SA truck that keeps on giving We elected to replace the leaf springs based on the fact that I was going to have to spend time and money just to replace the stressed leaf center pins (all the ubolts were hand tight, and the holes in the axle tube were 1” in diameter.

So I go to pull the anchor pins out of the hangers and find they all have nuts on them! I wonder why? :headbang:

Pull the pins and go to drop the springs out of the hangers and what do I see? CLOTH??? WTF?

My best guess is that it’s a SA equivalent of a heater hose used for a spring bushing.

 

[YoYoHo]

Man not sure this BJ lives up to the standards being set by that SA Truck but it has some special.

1st up the "Custom" Brake Master Cylinder Adapter to allow a Nissan MC to be used. Can't imagine why it has a crappy pedal. The bit I didn't get a picture of was the Vacuum, hose from the B series alternator straight into the booster. As you can image when the engine stopped the driver lost all assist and thus brakes since he couldn't push hard enough.

 

[YoYoHo]

Bad enough hanging a fuel can off your sheet metal but to do it with tech screws .. well that is just special .

 

[lelandEOD]

Bad enough hanging a fuel can off your sheet metal but to do it with tech screws .. well that is just special .

View attachment 2110435

View attachment 2110436

View attachment 2110437

That poor baby...

 

[65swb45]

Soooo, byproducts of the u-bolts being loose BESIDES worrying about the leaf spring center pins...

The holes in the spring perches on the axle housing are VERY wallowed out. No worries, replacing the housing anyways.

The U-bolt plates are worn over a 1/4 of the way through the plate! I swear!

No worries there either; putting Mark's Off Road Ubolt skid plates on.

 

[65swb45]

 

[Toyo_Judson]

Speed holes?

 

[waiting for time]

Superlegerra.

 

[Sand Man 1]

My old 67 had a wood carb insulator... Wow

Just a side note, this was fairly common in the '70's in drag racing. The wood insulates the carb and prevents vapor lock. These days they actually make phenolic spacers, but do the same thing. This guy may have actually had a reason for this. Just guessing...

 

[65swb45]

Speed holes?

Circle track racer; left turn course.

 

[Sand Man 1]

Next up for consideration are a trio of secondary diaphragms.

The one on the left is a not-so-atypical sample of an FJ40 diaphragm on an FJ60 carb. Too long, it will never move the secondary. Happens a lot when people buy kits from vendors who think one size fits all.

The one in the middle is of unknown origin. It was tied to the secondary throttle with a piece of bailing wire.

The one on the right obviously represents someone in situation one who realized they needed a shorter rod to make the diaphragm actually work.View attachment 1521661

Just one more (sorry I only recently joined so I'm replying to long-forgotten posts) on vacuum-secondary carbs, the diaphragm closes the secondaries, engine vacuum opens them. I learned this when a local guy disconnected the diaphragm from his '70 Z28 in an effort to get better mileage by disabling the secondaries, or so he thought. The first run up the gears and the secondaries opened, but with nothing to close them, the throttle hung open. With predictable results. Ok, enough of my justifying sketchy stuff...

 

[Splangy]

Just one more (sorry I only recently joined so I'm replying to long-forgotten posts) on vacuum-secondary carbs, the diaphragm closes the secondaries, engine vacuum opens them. I learned this when a local guy disconnected the diaphragm from his '70 Z28 in an effort to get better mileage by disabling the secondaries, or so he thought. The first run up the gears and the secondaries opened, but with nothing to close them, the throttle hung open. With predictable results. Ok, enough of my justifying sketchy stuff...

Not so fast (pun intended). The diaphragm is activated by engine vacuum and opens the secondary. It’s closed by springs when you let off the throttle.