original po welded the battery tray on a different place I'm assuming..and it appears he sucked at welding. I bent a piece of scrap welding rod off this weld After the tray broke off after about three months of having this ride
The Wall of Shame
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Thank you previous owner... for butchering holes in the back of the headlight buckets big enough for the connector to pass through. It must have been so much easier than just unscrewing the wires from the junction block. 
I know this is from two pages back but Ive seen this happen on much larger shafts in my past job. It is the result of a crappy hardening job (or a poorly spec'ed hardening requirement.) The part is essentially case hardened with the outside being hard and brittle with the inside remaining soft and low carbon. Doing destructive testing you can see the surface layer is totally different than the inner material. Add the right amount of torque and the inner material will deform and twist while the hardened outer material will do its own thing, in this case crack.
Yea that's a unusual break.
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I’m kicking myself a little for not taking a picture of it, but I was in a rush to finish two carbs today after pulling SW20's engine.
You know how a lot of the rebuild kits often include EXTRA pieces that don’t fit your application, but the standardization of the kit is more cost effective for the manufacturer? Well somebody who had ahold of a 1968 Keyster carb kit tried EXTRA HARD to use everything in the kit.
Everything in this case included the metering rod which is not used where a power valve is present. In order to accomplish this feat, they had to drill out the primary jet until it was big enough for the metering rod to go through!
This should have been a clue. 
Granted, it is confusing that Aisan continued to produce an accelerator pump subassembly that incorporated the metering rod arm. But part of that arm is arguably useful to help keep the plunger properly centered over the accel pump chamber.
Lacking the proper slope and distance of a real metering rod orifice, they also had to cobble a custom link between the accelerator pump and the throttle arm to make sure the parts engaged properly. This in effect lowered the accelerator pump low enough in its chamber that it acted as a stopper, keeping the throttle from fully opening!
And the net result? The engine would idle, but fall flat on its face as soon as the primary was engaged because the metering rod, meant only to supplement an independent primary circuit was instead ‘corking’ the primary jet.
You know how a lot of the rebuild kits often include EXTRA pieces that don’t fit your application, but the standardization of the kit is more cost effective for the manufacturer? Well somebody who had ahold of a 1968 Keyster carb kit tried EXTRA HARD to use everything in the kit.
Everything in this case included the metering rod which is not used where a power valve is present. In order to accomplish this feat, they had to drill out the primary jet until it was big enough for the metering rod to go through!
This should have been a clue. Granted, it is confusing that Aisan continued to produce an accelerator pump subassembly that incorporated the metering rod arm. But part of that arm is arguably useful to help keep the plunger properly centered over the accel pump chamber.Lacking the proper slope and distance of a real metering rod orifice, they also had to cobble a custom link between the accelerator pump and the throttle arm to make sure the parts engaged properly. This in effect lowered the accelerator pump low enough in its chamber that it acted as a stopper, keeping the throttle from fully opening!
And the net result? The engine would idle, but fall flat on its face as soon as the primary was engaged because the metering rod, meant only to supplement an independent primary circuit was instead ‘corking’ the primary jet.
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Indestructible 47
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Previous owner hit something hard... and got it wheel aligned and kept on trucking
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this isn’t a system that i feel is conducive for a off roader who was just beginning.
this was put on about 15 years ago
its the only exhaust I’ve ever had put on..
Why is my post here? interesting question
I knew what I was getting into so I thought. I drove home after purchase for 2500.00 with really bad exhaust and a clanking as hell second gear..I almost couldn’t make the drive from Tucson to Phoenix. and definitely not by Freeway with such bad death wobble and with barely functioning improperly mounted Saginaw steering box…. an hours or so drive took more than 2 and half hours definitely not the i-10 but scenic route and on. something like that..but no freeway
got to phoenix the next day I started researching and about a month later decided to go to MM
got to MM in the morning they asked what I was looking for and going to do… and …they asked me how much I wanted to spend even BEFORE we even discussed anything.. that isn’t professionalism.
talk to me about what you can do for me then I will tell you what i can do for you and we go from there
Kinda. So you’d like you have your teeth done well how much money do you have? you see what I mean. Just does not roll off the tongue does it?
anyway i answered the first concern …I said moderate offloading to the lakes, Cove oven, Martinez mine and Crown King etc. and i need good exhaust
I did ask for it to be Dueled. what I didn’t know was about crossover pipes. X pipe H pipe etc. I didnt realize i could use a crossover, mount both mufflers on the drivers side….re-crossover one pipe and exit one pipe out the passenger side rear
so i got caught up with needing mufflers…however I was told No 3” for me cause I most likely didn’t need it, but by the looks of it I think they are 3”.
I was, however sold shorty block hugger headers, that I was told would Breath better than the Rams Horn exhaust i was using…and of coarse was told they would discount the headers by using my rams horn exhaust for average iron scrap weight…. HA what ever, if I only knew then..I wonder who paid a nice price for those header i originally had
told I needed Cherry bombs with straight through piping>>>>What? I ended up choosing 40 series Flowmaster.
I was then told he would end it at the side in front of the each rear tire...that it may be better than going out the rear because i was going to be charged for each bend and going over the rear axle and that would be 4 bends per each pipe and that would be pricey. again never told them what my budget was. They assumed I was a cheapskate but they gouge me for items I don’t need?
I never even told them how much I was willing to spend...This is a professional company, Im a newby,,,,Still am actually
they said the shorter the pipe the less back pressure.. I didn’t know for a fact whether a vehicle actually needs some back pressure or not if that was true but I though it would be awesome to have the exhaust short.
so for a company that knowns Im going off roading to multiple designations from desert to wooded..Why would they mount the exhaust UNDER the frame rail
Took 4 hours and I was the only vehicle there. I got maybe 8 ft pipe total with basically two bends each, set of flows and they put tips on I didn’t request
Over 450.00 charged for work worththy of a “krapp” award...even the welds look like They could’ve done a little better... I guess labor charge and the torch etc... but that charge wasn’t including the flows or headers..
That’s my wall if Shame. I actually have more
I can’t even get sliders now because of the way these were installed.. told they were a company that excelled at off road exhaust and this is what I get after I fist was shoved up my ... well you know.. not even a kiss.
I am not comfortable with it since I am afraid I will rip it off try to go over something..
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I’ll think of more trust me
It could be worse... that same exhaust would be $1200-1500 here. Its a shame about the Ram Horn's... and them not building what you asked for. Would it be wrong to hang the tech's on the wall by their coveralls?
It
It appears they also took your front third member. I can't believe they wanted to put cherrybombs on AND point it out the side. I wouldn't let them touch it after that. You wouldn't be able to hear anything
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Oh heck! I'd have made room on the Wall for your ABS and Simpson StrongTie snorkel.
Hey! It took me a long time at Home Depot to think of that and build it
lol yes I told y’all there’s more...
I have told you this yet for the snorkel
Goes to a Cadillac air cleaner enclosure with a very small k&n inside that and I have the air restrictor gauge inside... yes that is a heater duct tube
As ghetto as it looks it works great through mud and such as the
Engine as the image will testify lol
lol yes I told y’all there’s more...
I have told you this yet for the snorkel
Goes to a Cadillac air cleaner enclosure with a very small k&n inside that and I have the air restrictor gauge inside... yes that is a heater duct tube
As ghetto as it looks it works great through mud and such as the
Engine as the image will testify lol
Tweet99
Actually I took that image not but a year or so ago front third members always been on but the rear one I removed the center for installation of a soft locker I had
Actually I took that image not but a year or so ago front third members always been on but the rear one I removed the center for installation of a soft locker I had
I have seen so many hack exhaust jobs its discusting.. i just buy mandrel bends and do my own. Couldn't find anyone to do quality work... im not paying them 1k for 4hrs work...
In ‘96 I had a similar cheap’n dirty dual exhaust built from the manifolds back... 21 years later the header pipes finally rotted out
I’d like to believe the exhaust Y pipe and carefully routed as high as possible with minimal clearance below the air tanks and between the shock, rear tank, frame, & tire.
Not sure what exhaust shop guys are smoking. I just went through the same thing. We put the truck on a lift, discussed how I wanted it routed (over the torque tube, close to DS frame rail to accommodate an aux tank, and out behind the back tire with a 45 degree turndown to get the fume out of the cab.
The exhaust I got dips below the plane of the frame under the torque tube then routs virtually centered to the rear bed (no aux tank possible) then out the side with no turn down.
It’s liveable and this truck rarely sees dirt but you really don’t get what you paid for!
The exhaust I got dips below the plane of the frame under the torque tube then routs virtually centered to the rear bed (no aux tank possible) then out the side with no turn down.
It’s liveable and this truck rarely sees dirt but you really don’t get what you paid for!
true...A really nice exhaust may take a full day plus parts. Most shops are about 100.00 an hour. I've built a lot of exhausts using mandrels.
It's a little slower but without an exhaust bender it's the best way to make a clean system. You can usually buy a package of assorted bends
for 200 or so and have a little extra. Then you'll have the muffler and other parts to add. I like using a flex joint and y-connector.
I'm usually over 300 before I start.
It could be worse, McCabe will build you a set of custom headers. Twenty years ago he was getting about 6 grand from the race car guys
I can understand $100 an hour… Most people charge that just a light there torch LOL.
However my exhaust was put on 15 years ago I don’t believe that the price back then was 100 and hour I think if I’m not mistaken it was about 65 or 45 an hour.
But I do agree with you the price usually runs about 100 or 120 an hour and with all these great pipe being in the way they do the exhaust now days it will run in the thousands.
As much as I agree with you , I don’t agree that my system should’ve cost 400+ in labor back 15 years ago... plus I had purchased the two mufflers and the headers and the tips which I did not ask for the tips that is or the unprofessionalism to me. However right now they have a 5 star yelp rating.. whaaaat?
maybe 400 and such for everything but you saw my post I definately out that to the hall of shame lol
However my exhaust was put on 15 years ago I don’t believe that the price back then was 100 and hour I think if I’m not mistaken it was about 65 or 45 an hour.
But I do agree with you the price usually runs about 100 or 120 an hour and with all these great pipe being in the way they do the exhaust now days it will run in the thousands.
As much as I agree with you , I don’t agree that my system should’ve cost 400+ in labor back 15 years ago... plus I had purchased the two mufflers and the headers and the tips which I did not ask for the tips that is or the unprofessionalism to me. However right now they have a 5 star yelp rating.. whaaaat?
maybe 400 and such for everything but you saw my post I definately out that to the hall of shame lol
Indestructible 47
SILVER Star
The mandrel bent system on my 40 cost me 400. But it did dump behind the cab so was alot shorter then most. It's running a 12ht so that was acceptable 
