The Thundra is clunkin'! (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 12, 2012
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Location
Beautiful Las Vegas Nevada
2000 Tundra V8 2WD has 211500 on the odo and just now decided to go clunky clunky when I slow down. It primarily happens during the downshift from 2nd to 1st. I read a few things and most responses were just to live with it. But I don't want to just live with it. Is it the u joints? Is it the slip yoke? Is it the center bearing? Enlighten me with your experiences and solutions please and thank you.
 
have you crawled underneath and wiggled the driveshaft?
 
Yep. Not too much waggle.
 
I will give it a shot. The sound seems to change day by day. What started out as an intermittent clunk has now become predictable chatter. Bumper to bumper on the freeway this morning, I thought the ghost of John Bonham was under the truck! Still no change in performance just increased irritation.
 
Update: Repalced all 3 universals, carrier bearing, and greased the splines. STILL MAKING NOISE!! WTF?
 
I did a level/lift about 3 years ago. Haven't had an issue until about 3 weeks ago. 2wd that never sees dirt. I am familiar with axle wrap, but its only up about 1.5" in the rear.
 
Any play in the rear diff?...Did you check for play at the pinion when the driveshaft was disconnected?...Have you jacked up the rear and rotated the rear tires to check for play or clunking?

Well, worst case scenario, if you end up needing to rebuild/replace your transmission, get one from a 2003 or 2004, instead of '00-02.
The early trans had weaker planetaries, or clutch packs, I dont remember exactly what...I guess it was a materials weakness on parts from one of Toyotas suppliers...they supposedly changed suppliers for the parts for the '03 & '04, making these stronger trannies.

2005-2006 wont work because its a newer model transmission (A750 vs the A340 in the '00-'04s).
 
Axle wrap causing it?

Could be the rear springs are just getting weak after 215k miles.

Before I went much farther I would second the question about the diff itself. Can you move the pinion flange, rotationally more than BS spec, so around .008" Basically just barely, or in and out at all? If you can then it may be the diff.
 
Thanks guys. I'll check it out and get back to you. I appreciate the advise.
 

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