The phh strikes!

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:eek::eek: that thing is 2-3 inches??!! definitely going bypass now, my years of aircraft wrenching left me with a bunch of blind spot tools and close tolerance right angle drivers and wrenches and pliers and remote mirrors, etc, plus the patience of Job and a nifty way to hold my tongue just so that makes stuff happen by magic:D

no bloody stumps of fingers pics? that looks like a major PIAHH, my hat's off to you:banana:
 
Ebag333 said:
You can skip this meeting.

It's not like you've missed any other ones.



Plus it leaves more stuff from Mot for me. :D
Click to expand...

Sorry,

I am going to bring two family members.:flipoff2: That means more opportunity for our family and less for you!:flipoff2:
 
I'm bringing my 2 kids and maybe even the dumb dog, so there:flipoff2:
 
I would go for it. If Dave says it's good, then it's probably good stuff. From what you told me about it, it should work fine.

Besides, even if it only lasts as long as the OEM, you should get another 10+ years out of it. Don't ya wanna do this again? :hillbilly:
 
tblume said:
I'm bringing my 2 kids and maybe even the dumb dog, so there:flipoff2:
Click to expand...

I'll see your dumb dog and raise you two smart ones....:flipoff2:
 
no bet, I was bluffing:cool:
 
PHH job done :) thanks Gabe for hand. Too bad in the process today installing a CDL switch I dont get any CDL or ABS light on the dash.. swith on/off low or high.

Checked fuse.
Checked switch (swapped with the haz.)
Tried putting the factory terminator back in.
Remove power from the battery several times.

Guess next step is the actuctor?
 
Was your CDL working before when going into low range?
 
Yeah it was, at least as of the snow run.

I suggested checking the haz switch, the dummy end terminal, and the fuse.

The only other thing I can think of is check the wiring itself to make sure that it didn't get ripped out somehow (read of that happening before).
 
Yep, worked great when we were in the snow.

Havent tried it since.
 
pin7 have anything to do with it?
 
Didnt get that far. After the PHH was fixed today, went for a little test drive to check out just having the CDL switch installed. That when I noticed the lack of typical lights.
 
OKAY::EDIT:: I think I need to start a new thread. PHH is done and im happy. My other issue the CDL will be address in a new one :)

You guys can slap me for this, havent purchased a FSM yet.

Checking my "used" CDL switch: Can anyone verify in their FSM if this correct or a typo; in regards to OFF get continuity, and ON get continuity.

"FSM is the test for the CDL Dash Switch. Just pop out the switch from the dash and disconnect from the harness. With the CDL switch in the “OFF” position, there will be continuity between terminals 7/10. In the “ON” position, there will be continuity between terminals 7/10. If continuity is not as specified, replace the switch."

I have done this test, results: Off=continuity, On=no continuity

Also driving test results as best as I can tell the Center Diff is not engaging (tried no switch, switch on/off and Low/High combinations) at least I can't feel a difference if there is. Tired doing tight figure 8's in a dirt parking lot.
 
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slap me for loaning my FSM out and the guy took a job in Colorado, at least it's with the same company so he ought to be on the outlook address book...

retro, lemme get this straight; cdl and lockers worked when you were running stock, now with your new button (and the hazard button as trouble shooting) you are not getting abs or cdl lights in the dash and no seat of the pants feel like anything is working? I am tempted to say the pin7 mod is what you need to do, it's a wild assed guess but maybe there is confusion in the ecu/trans cpu with the pin7 still functional? I figured out the hard way that these rigs switch a lot of stuff in the negative leg of circuits, could be a connection.

that pin out for the swich makes no sense to me; continuity in both positions? wtf? does your hazard switch do the same thing as your cdl button? and does the cdl button operate the hazards? if yes to both I think switches are good, there is something going on in the relay for the cdl in your DS kick panel. :meh: interested what you find.

FWIW, my cdl button is a hazard switch out of a junk 90's toy PU, I know they work so your trouble shooting is headed the right way.
 
tblume said:
slap me for loaning my FSM out and the guy took a job in Colorado, at least it's with the same company so he ought to be on the outlook address book...

retro, lemme get this straight; cdl and lockers worked when you were running stock, now with your new button (and the hazard button as trouble shooting) you are not getting abs or cdl lights in the dash and no seat of the pants feel like anything is working? I am tempted to say the pin7 mod is what you need to do, it's a wild assed guess but maybe there is confusion in the ecu/trans cpu with the pin7 still functional? I figured out the hard way that these rigs switch a lot of stuff in the negative leg of circuits, could be a connection.

that pin out for the swich makes no sense to me; continuity in both positions? wtf? does your hazard switch do the same thing as your cdl button? and does the cdl button operate the hazards? if yes to both I think switches are good, there is something going on in the relay for the cdl in your DS kick panel. :meh: interested what you find.

FWIW, my cdl button is a hazard switch out of a junk 90's toy PU, I know they work so your trouble shooting is headed the right way.
Click to expand...

YEP,
Stock setup with no lockers (front/rear magic dial) and no cdl switch.

Used L4 maybe 3-4 times in the last year, all times with out a problem. Engine running, shift to Neutral - Shift from H4 to N to L4 on the lower shifter. Center Light in dash and ABS light pops on. No problems. Dis-engauges just as easy and the same.

PHH blows. Start working on it. While I had it apart and not running my CDL switch arrived. In a break from the aggrevation of the PHH job, decided to throw the CDL switch in. Exactly like all the articles explained just installed like cake.

Finished the PHH job, took for test spin. Followed pretty much the same method as before as engaging into 4L and expect once the shifter was down in position and CDL switch was engaged the dash lights would turn on. So trying various on/off, hi/low configs never got a CDL or ABS light to turn on.

I would think that maybe in my grunt and cursing at the PHH removal and could have knocked some wire lose or something, but I believe all the CDL initiator switches and actuator are on the R (passenger) side... And all the cursing and PHH work done is on the L (driver) side.

LONG story LONG.... Maybe just out of mere coincedence my Center Diff system somewhere in the relay, actuator, switch decided to start failing prior to me realizing, just happened be when I added the CDL switch and had everything apart I noticed.

My only concern with now throwing the 7pin mod is further trouble the troubleshooting ;)

You might be very correct tho and the 7pin mod maybe help give the "correct" signals back and everything is just fine.

The only time I have ever used 4L with the center locked as default on my 94 was in snow. So I base my "feeling" of driving with the center locked in 4L on dirt or pavement as I should feel something different. Tight turns/ figure 8's.....


Sorry for the lengthy response. Just wanted to be sure the issue was clear on where Im at.

Tomorrow I will dive under the truck and try a couple more of the CDL system tests, like paper clip in the lower cdl tranny switch to kick on the light.


THanks guys for the help :) I owe you :beer::beer::beer:
 
I have my 95 FSM here if you need me to look something up. I see you requested something up above but not sure if you resolved it.
 
so you have no Elockers (pity) and you are just wanting to lock the center in high and unlock in low if you so desire, like the rest of the world.

with the dummy plug back in place does the center lock in low?

maybe the paperclip jumper will help you out; my lockers did not work at all until the contacts in the plug had been "cleaned" / the corrosion scraped off using the paperclip and the cdl light lit- lockers need to see that signal to actuate. maybe the same thing is applicable to your rig; no light on the dash= no signal to the cdl relay/cpu. have you checked the low range position switch? while you are doing the paperclip jumper put the gear selector in low and check for 12vdc at the tcase switch, dummy plug in the harness-(there is a jumper in it IIRC?)

bummer about the F&R lockers:frown:
 
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