So after many years of trying to find the info on what bellhousing from what box truck is a standard SAE for the A442/aw450 i have finally found it. The transmission is from a UD1200 and it is a SAE 3. Just pop that bellhousing off and bolt it to my land cruiser transmission and I can easily install either my QSF or hino WO4. I'm leaning more towards the hino since it's mechanical and already put together I still need to rebuild the Cummins. But probably the hardest part has been solved. Now it's just a bolt up affair.
The illusive A442 SAE 3 bellhousing. fz80 hino WO4TC 4.0 diesel swap.
- Thread starter 19931fz
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- #3
So it's been a while but I've been slowly figuring out how to get the torque converter to work with the engine I have. It's a hino w04 from a generator. It's got a SAE 11 1/2 flywheel. After a bunch of different ideas I found a sae 11.5 drive plate on eBay for like $25 so I made a alignment fixture on the lathe and just drilled the holes for the converter in the drive plate. I also made a adapter for the converter hub into the crankshaft. From what I can tell it is true and the runout is acceptable
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- #4
Here's it bolted to the engine.
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- #5
Hub adapter. It's not as good as I hoped I think I'll make another one that has tighter tolerances.
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And lastly in the transmission.
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- #7
My sweet access port.
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- #8
Made some progress today. Pulled the 1fz out of my cruiser and swapped the bell housing into the transmission in the truck. Torque converters are the same as well so that's cool.
Neat combo of hard to find parts.
That converter pilot might be a little more important than the part you made to support it implies. 1045 steel or cast iron would be good materials to use. Aluminum would not be a great choice for that. How far does it press into the crankshaft bore?
You want your fit about .0015" +/- .0005" clearance on the converter pilot.
That converter pilot might be a little more important than the part you made to support it implies. 1045 steel or cast iron would be good materials to use. Aluminum would not be a great choice for that. How far does it press into the crankshaft bore?
You want your fit about .0015" +/- .0005" clearance on the converter pilot.
Is the bore in the crankshaft only 3/4" deep?
That's good news then. Definitely use the entire finished depth of the bore in the crank and you'll be fine.
This part does need good measuring and the right order of lathe ops to make it. When you get ready to do this post a picture of a napkin sketch of the part and the machine you are going to make it on if you like and I can give suggestions how to make it.
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- #16
Did a bit of test fitting today and it's actually not bad. Shouldn't need much to actually go to its home and even the factory frame holes line up with the engine mounts they're just too high for the ones I have. The only clearance issue is the pan and the drag link and some stiffer front springs should sort it out. It's currently stock ride height. Worst case I'll notch the pan.
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- #17
Well the mount is a bit lower than factory so that's a dilemma.
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- #18
With a little reinforcement I'm sure this will be good enough. Wish there was enough room to use a liquid mount but oh well stock mounts will be good enough. Don't mind my terrible weld it's a heavy duty tack I'll make it good when I gusset it.
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- #19
Well the motor is now fully supported by the factory mounts. Now it's just as easy as putting the torque converter in and bolting it all up. I'll have to extend the mounts a little so the bolts will clamp on.
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- #20
Spent a long time at my friend's machine shop and got a new hub adapter made on the lathe. This one gives me a run out on the converter snout of less than 10 thousands and I think that's probably good enough. Now Its the easy work of just bolting everything together. Once it's in and moving under its own power I'll figure out the transmission control. Planning on using a micro squirt transmission control since it's cheap and should have enough outputs to run the a442
