The illusive A442 SAE 3 bellhousing. fz80 hino WO4TC 4.0 diesel swap.

[mjosoba]

Spent a long time at my friend's machine shop and got a new hub adapter made on the lathe. This one gives me a run out on the converter snout of less than 10 thousands and I think that's probably good enough. Now Its the easy work of just bolting everything together. Once it's in and moving under its own power I'll figure out the transmission control. Planning on using a micro squirt transmission control since it's cheap and should have enough outputs to run the a442

View attachment 3564692

I’ll be especially interested to hear about the micros squirt.

 

[PIP]

.01" runout is a mile. .001" would be acceptable. Anything more is a hard no for a converter pilot.

Your friend is a real machinist or just has a lathe?

 

[19931fz]

.01" runout is a mile. .001" would be acceptable. Anything more is a hard no for a converter pilot.

Your friend is a real machinist or just has a lathe?

He's a real machinist but he just let me use his lathe. I say less than 10 thou because all I cared about was it being within Toyota spec when I measured it. I just zeroed the dial indicator and spun it around and made sure it didn't go above 10 on the other side.

 

[PIP]

That's not exactly the same thing. The drive plate spec is the axial runout at the perimeter of the flexplate. The pump drive spec is basically checking how well the converter is made. Those specs are assuming the converter pilot is perfectly on center, because the OEM one is.

I hope I'm not coming off like some grumpy old man telling you how to do your project. I like your "getrdone" approach to things. I only say something because I've been a machinist for 20 years, built things like this commercially and more importantly, I've fixed stuff like this after it fails more than a few times.

I'm helping a 16 year old kid design and build some VW TDI adapters at the moment and I we're about 40 hours into the project without making a chip yet. He's a smart kid, but he really thought it was going to be a 2 day job to design and CNC all the parts. Machinists know how to make things. Materials, heat treat, fits and metrology. It's not overkill to do the bare minimum to make something that works correctly in the end. If you have questions about how to solve your problem please ask away. If you're determined to do it all on your own, no problem, I can relate 100%. You'll learn the same things either way. Asking questions first will be way easier on your wallet though.

 

[PIP]

Also- How are you getting to the converter bolts? Are you going to bore access holes through the flywheel or are you planning to attempt stabbing the converter into the trans already bolted to the engine?

 

[19931fz]

That's not exactly the same thing. The drive plate spec is the axial runout at the perimeter of the flexplate. The pump drive spec is basically checking how well the converter is made. Those specs are assuming the converter pilot is perfectly on center, because the OEM one is.

I hope I'm not coming off like some grumpy old man telling you how to do your project. I like your "getrdone" approach to things. I only say something because I've been a machinist for 20 years, built things like this commercially and more importantly, I've fixed stuff like this after it fails more than a few times.

I'm helping a 16 year old kid design and build some VW TDI adapters at the moment and I we're about 40 hours into the project without making a chip yet. He's a smart kid, but he really thought it was going to be a 2 day job to design and CNC all the parts. Machinists know how to make things. Materials, heat treat, fits and metrology. It's not overkill to do the bare minimum to make something that works correctly in the end. If you have questions about how to solve your problem please ask away. If you're determined to do it all on your own, no problem, I can relate 100%. You'll learn the same things either way. Asking questions first will be way easier on your wallet though.

Oh no worries I appreciate the input. And really what ended up killing me on this iteration of the adapter is that it was a press fit to the crank and pilot bearing hole and then I got too greedy when I was polishing it last night and it ended up just being a slip fit. So that's on me I had it good and I messed it up a little bit. For the bolts to the converter I cut a access hole in the transmission case so I can install them from the outside. And from what I can gather for that converter runout the transmission wouldn't be able to tell the difference from the converter being slightly off vs the converter just being poorly made. I would assume that all things considered that as long as runout is less than the transmission pump bushing clearance it shouldn't touch and destroy it's self.

 

[PIP]

That logic sounds fair to me- A jacked up converter pilot would be just as bad as a converter built with the same error.

Pump bushing clearance is about .005" btw.

 

[19931fz]

That logic sounds fair to me- A jacked up converter pilot would be just as bad as a converter built with the same error.

Pump bushing clearance is about .005" btw.

Alright so I reinstalled the converter to the engine and did the bolts one at a time while turning the flywheel and this time it's on there straight. I took a little off the face of my adapter too I think it was just slightly too long and was distorting the flex plate when I bolted it down. At the most it looked like 1-3 thousand runout this time. There might be hope after all.

 

[19931fz]

Well got the converter in the trans and engine bolts started and discovered that the converter was butted up against the flywheel. Checked the engagement and it appears to not go quite as far into the transmission as it did on the 450-43le that I mocked everything up on the ground with. So I've gotta take a bit off of the spacers on the flex plate and try again. Other than that everything else seems to be working properly