The Dreaded ABS Light is on (2 Viewers)

[DSRH]

So after riding for a while today I finally went into the Toyota dealer to get some type of options on how to tame the ABS light on my FJ80 dash. Here is what they came up with:
CUSTOMER STATES ABS LIGHT ON
CODE 51 ABS MOTOR LOCK. REPLACE ABS PUMP MOTOR PER THIS
DEFINITION. INFORMATION ON FAILED COMPONENT IS LIMITED.

Thoughts? I have read about speed sensors, wiring harnesses, fluid levels but they say I need a $2200 ABS pump motor. I laughed and drive away. Ideas anyone?

 

[Grandlooser]

Ill sell you my nice working one for cheap. Or do what I did and remove that mess and there will be 2 of them up for grabs.

 

[rolliges]

Clean all 4 sensors, reset codes, try again.

There is also a way to electrically activate the ABS which might help it to flush debris (old fluid, rust, etc.) that could clog the ABS pump.

I have the same issue and just live with the light.

Could also pull the lamp bulb from the cluster if all else fails. (Lazy)

 

[DSRH]

Clean all 4 sensors, reset codes, try again.

There is also a way to electrically activate the ABS which might help it to flush debris (old fluid, rust, etc.) that could clog the ABS pump.

I have the same issue and just live with the light.

Could also pull the lamp bulb from the cluster if all else fails. (Lazy)

Can you tell me where the speed sensors are? Most important is I am getting ready to drive about 750 miles and want to make sure I don't have any braking issues as I will be in remotes areas....my fluid is dark and hasn't been flushed in a while but I have been told that might cause leaks to flush it...

 

[Grandlooser]

Bad advice to keep old fluid to prevent leaks.

 

[littlegreenmonster]

I have had abs issues and ultimately deleted it as it was too much of a headache. Stops much quicker now.

Do your brakes seem to be working OK other than warning lights? What year is your truck? Is it a triple locker? If so it is easier to troubleshoot as the axle diffs wont engage if it is the sensors in the hubs/axles but will if it is other issues. Also, will the center diff engage? ABS issues can sometimes cause it to have issues.

 

[DSRH]

I have had abs issues and ultimately deleted it as it was too much of a headache. Stops much quicker now.

Do your brakes seem to be working OK other than warning lights? What year is your truck? Is it a triple locker? If so it is easier to troubleshoot as the axle diffs wont engage if it is the sensors in the hubs/axles but will if it is other issues. Also, will the center diff engage? ABS issues can sometimes cause it to have issues.

My vehicle is a 1996 model. The brakes seem a little slow but I am used to driving sports cars with instant brakes. The light comes on after I drive a short distance.

Where do you find info on how to remove the abs? I found a used pump online for $250....I am not clear that would correct the problem though....

I have a locker rear end installed but not hooked up. Long story short it was installed after being hit in the rear wheel one time under an insurance claim. The replacement was a locker with low miles and a Toyota collision team installed it but it is not electrically connected.

 

[DSRH]

Bad advice to keep old fluid to prevent leaks.

Yeah I tend to agree...I had it purged one time and the replacement was black after the purge by a dealer.

 

[littlegreenmonster]

My vehicle is a 1996 model. The brakes seem a little slow but I am used to driving sports cars with instant brakes. The light comes on after I drive a short distance.

Where do you find info on how to remove the abs? I found a used pump online for $250....I am not clear that would correct the problem though....

I have a locker rear end installed but not hooked up. Long story short it was installed after being hit in the rear wheel one time under an insurance claim. The replacement was a locker with low miles and a Toyota collision team installed it but it is not electrically connected.

For starters, FZJ80 brakes suck. So if you are used to driving a sports care, they are probably fine.

Do you have a center diff lock (CDL) button? If so find a gravel road and push it. if the CDL light just blinks and never engages, it is most likely one of your sensors on the front axle. If you do not have the center diff lock button, you can borrow the hazard switch and put it into the plug where the CDL switch goes and can use it to activate the CDL. To confirm this, pull the ABS fuse. Your ABS light is on and will stay on, however you should now be able to lock your CDL.

If the CDL works with the fuse in and ABS light on, it is most likely the ABS pump/valvebody.

To remove the ABS you will need to pull the pump/valvebody and route the lines that went from there to the calipers directly to the master cylinder . You will also need to remove the ride height proportioning valve from the rear of the vehicle and replace it with hard line. If you are running on factory tires, you will need to install a proportioning valve that you can adjust manually to dial in your brakes so the rear dont lock up to quickly under heavy braking. With oversized tires, this isn't always necessary depending on your wheel/tire combo. Sorry I dont have detailed photos/instructions for this. You will also need to pull your ABS fuse and the abs light bulb from the instrument cluster.

 

[rolliges]

Flushing the fluid is step one and to be done ASAP.

Old fluid causes poor breaking performance, rusting/sticking caliper pistons, and clogged ABS motors. Ask me how I know.

Until recently I neglected my brake system and suffered from ABS malfunction and very sticky pistons which was scary at times.

Now: new calipers, new rotors, new fluid. Breaks function as normal and with confidence.

Flush you fluid now!

 

[DSRH]

For starters, FZJ80 brakes suck. So if you are used to driving a sports care, they are probably fine.

Do you have a center diff lock (CDL) button? If so find a gravel road and push it. if the CDL light just blinks and never engages, it is most likely one of your sensors on the front axle. If you do not have the center diff lock button, you can borrow the hazard switch and put it into the plug where the CDL switch goes and can use it to activate the CDL. To confirm this, pull the ABS fuse. Your ABS light is on and will stay on, however you should now be able to lock your CDL.

If the CDL works with the fuse in and ABS light on, it is most likely the ABS pump/valvebody.

To remove the ABS you will need to pull the pump/valvebody and route the lines that went from there to the calipers directly to the master cylinder . You will also need to remove the ride height proportioning valve from the rear of the vehicle and replace it with hard line. If you are running on factory tires, you will need to install a proportioning valve that you can adjust manually to dial in your brakes so the rear dont lock up to quickly under heavy braking. With oversized tires, this isn't always necessary depending on your wheel/tire combo. Sorry I dont have detailed photos/instructions for this. You will also need to pull your ABS fuse and the abs light bulb from the instrument cluster.

Thanks. I do not have a CDL switch. I have standard sized tires on factory wheels. I am going to flush the whole system with fresh fluid and see what happens then. I will consider what you are telling me as I looked everything over today and understand what you are saying. More to come.

 

[DSRH]

Flushing the fluid is step one and to be done ASAP.

Old fluid causes poor breaking performance, rusting/sticking caliper pistons, and clogged ABS motors. Ask me how I know.

Until recently I neglected my brake system and suffered from ABS malfunction and very sticky pistons which was scary at times.

Now: new calipers, new rotors, new fluid. Breaks function as normal and with confidence.

Flush you fluid now!

Next stop - brake fluid flush. Anyone have a special FJ80 brake fluid type they like or a special process for a brake fluid flush? I would like to do it myself and get the master cylinder reservoir clear. If there is a special tool I am ok with buying one....