Testing Sprinkler Valves (1 Viewer)

[El Cazador]

Had to change around a lot of sprinkler lines and move three valves in the process, and that required laying in new elec. lines for the valves of course. Before everything gets buried again is there a way I can test to make sure current is going to the three sprinkler valves without installing them? Or do I have to wire them in so that there is a load on the circuit? I can temporarily wire in the valves if need be but but I cannot connect them to the water source yet.
One valve is in and has water to it. It tests fine. But the other two are not installed yet. I activated one of them and checked the end of the line with an AC voltmeter and nothing. But same results at the controller's distribution panel.
Thanks for any help.

 

[Dirtsquirt]

were it me

I would disconnect from controller . twist the sprinkler end of the wires together and check for continuity on the two wires at the controller. also check for continuity to ground on the wires individually.

This will tell you : 1 if the wires in the ground are capable of carrying power
2 the insulation on the wires under ground is still intact.

If you get continuity between the two and no continuity to ground
you are ok to bury the wires..

This is over simplified.. you will always get continuity to ground through the insulator on your wire.. but at levels it takes a Megger or a good fluke in the cases of under 100meg

 

[D'Animal]

They are low amperage. Use a multi meter to see if you are getting current to them.

 

[D'Animal]

If you want to check the valve itself, you can use a little 9volt battery and see if it clicks.

 

[El Cazador]

Thanks for the suggestions. And sorry for the late reply but I just got the chance to do the testing suggested and run the valves today. All are fine. That's a relief!
On to the next project.
Vic
Redlands, CA

 

[brwnj60]

what kind of valves were they ? Out of curiosity what is your occupation ? (I am a golf course superintendent) nice to know if we are in the same industry....

 

[evathomas]

At the first valve in question, expose the wires to the solenoid and read across them. if there is no voltage, the problem is the wiring; if voltage is present but the vale does not open, it's the solenoid. Repeat as needed at other suspect solenoids.